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Blog A JBC Soldering Station Non-Repair and Teardown
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  • Author Author: shabaz
  • Date Created: 16 Feb 2024 2:46 AM Date Created
  • Views 3361 views
  • Likes 15 likes
  • Comments 14 comments
  • soldering station
  • jbc
  • soldering iron
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A JBC Soldering Station Non-Repair and Teardown

shabaz
shabaz
16 Feb 2024


The soldering station in the photo below (JBC DI 3000) has provided me with many years of good service! I’ve regularly used it for perhaps a decade, and I purchased it fairly cheap in used state, so it’s had a long life. It has been a pleasure using it. It was pretty high-end when released, and it can operate with several different types of tools; I use it with two different-sized soldering iron handles, and I have soldering tips ranging from a tiny 0.2mm in size, to maybe 4mm, so I can use the same soldering station for surface-mount parts, but also for large connectors.

image

However, for the past few weeks, it has been playing up. The iron's temperature has rapidly fluctuated for no reason, and it’s proved to be very difficult to solder as I used to.

I was a bit depressed about that! I didn’t want to shell out many hundreds on a new soldering station. I decided to take it apart to see if I could do anything to fix it.

Amusingly, as soon as I took it apart, I realized that there was absolutely no need to fix it! The soldering station has two channels. I have always used the first channel (just manually swapping out the two irons), and the second channel had a good chance of functioning. I plugged the iron into that second channel, and all was well!

I took some photos of the internals anyway, while it was apart.

As you can see in the photo above, the soldering station has a separate control unit and soldering iron stand. You can plug in a second soldering iron stand, although I’ve only had one. It’s a very convenient system because the control unit can be placed away from the desk so that the only space consumed on the work desk is for the soldering stand.

It’s a nice system, it auto-detects when the iron is in its stand, and immediately reduces the power to the tip. I also like that the iron handle is connected to the ground around the (always cold) metal collar where the tip is attached so that the user can frequently touch that during use, to dissipate any static charge (obviously, it doesn't replace a wrist strap).

There are three heavy-duty screws securing the base of the control unit. With those removed, I could pull out the base (which houses the transformer), and the rear panel (which has the mains connector, and the two circular connectors for attaching the two stands. As mentioned above, I only used one of the connectors since I only have one stand.

image

The rear panel has a banana socket for grounding a work mat. There is also a small fan (which I like because it’s quiet but provides a minimal sound always to remind me when the iron is on!

image

Here’s the other side of the rear panel. All looks fairly normal!

image

The transformer has a clearly separated primary coil. The secondary side has two windings; the lower current winding powers the microcontroller.

image

Here’s the interesting part! (Click to enlarge the image for more detail) It looks nicely constructed. The top and bottom components are fairly symmetrical since the unit supports two channels.

image

The other side has many discrete, a couple of op-amps and analog switch ICs, and the LCD screen.

image

I happened to have a spare op-amp (it is OP07C), so while I had the unit open, I removed the old one and soldered it in (using an earthed, portable soldering iron  Yet Another C210 Compatible Soldering Iron: KSGER C210 Portable  ), in the hope that perhaps the old op-amp was faulty. It didn’t make a difference : (

If you have suggestions for what might have gone wrong, it would be great to hear your ideas! I may open up the unit again in the future to fix the first channel, but for now, I’m hoping the second channel can continue to work for as long as possible!

I suppose there are (at least) two morals to the story. One is that it's really useful to have a spare soldering iron. The KSGER C210 iron is cheap enough to keep as a spare, but it has great performance, too. The second lesson is that even if only one soldering tool will ever be used, it's really great for redundancy to have a multi-channel soldering station.

Thanks for reading!

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 1 year ago

    This setup got me out of the hole while the main soldering station was down.

    The particular 12V power supply is (unlike many other models) grounded (model VEC50US12). A higher wattage power supply is recommended though (the supply rail drops on startup when the iron is initially heating up).

    The iron is described here:  Yet Another C210 Compatible Soldering Iron: KSGER C210 Portable it comes with a DC barrel plug, which was cut off and replaced with an inline DC barrel socket, so that the power supply could attach to it.

    The small 1mm tip (model C210-006) on the iron in the photo is more than sufficient to melt solder on large ground planes, even though a larger tip should be used for that.

    The iron stand is pretty basic but OK for light work. There is a pocket for wire wool (I don't use the sponge at all), but for normal work I use a separate pot with a larger amount of wool.

    image

    The soldering iron is great, one minor problem is that it's quite easy to accidentally hit a button and adjust the temperature up or down. I have not found it to be a major irritation as of yet.

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 1 year ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    There was only just enough clearance, had the chip been positioned 1-2mm more toward the LCD then it would have massively made it more difficult. I bent a piece of wire (component lead) into a U shape, and placed it onto the pins of the chip, then soldered it to all the pins with lots of solder. It remains all melted enough to slide the chip off the board. For the replacement, I applied a line of flux paste and then loaded the iron tip (1mm sized) with a small blob of solder and brought it near a couple of pins at a time, and let it take the solder with capillary action.

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  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 1 year ago in reply to shabaz

    > swapped out the 74HC4053 chip (visible to the right of the LCD in the photo above)

    That seems to be the most tricky area to work on, with the LCD and plastics next to it. How did you get the IC off?

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 1 year ago

    Problem solved! 

    I randomly swapped out the 74HC4053 chip (visible to the right of the LCD in the photo above). It wasn't completely random; it was in the measurement path for the temperature determination, so there was a fair chance it could have been that since the op-amp replacement made no difference.

    After swapping it out, it actually got worse (the reported temperature leaped to 600+ degrees C! so I quickly switched off, thought some more, and then scrubbed even harder with isopropyl alcohol to clean the area that I'd worked at. Then, it was dried with canned air and heated a bit to evaporate any remaining moisture. After that, all was well.

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  • DAB
    DAB over 1 year ago

    An easy fix is the best fix.

    It does look like a well built unit.

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