Compact

Reflections are always the issue, and controlling them is the biggest problem I've had.

You might want to look at extension rings for your existing lens.

If your existing lens is fully electronic, then finding a manual lens is the answer.

After that a good tripod and F16 or F22 is your friend.

You can also do focus stacking which I understand works well, but I haven't needed to use it ...yet.

Mark

Mark,

Many thanks for the advice.

I was only talking a fortnight ago to a colleague discussing this very subject - Macro Extension Tubes versus dedicated Macro Lens.

My lens is capable of both Manual and Automatic Focus.

I have some clear and translucent plastic strand for my 3D printer and may make my own set of different diffusers to see how they go.

Very Compact.

Compact

The focus isn't the issue, its being able to control the aperture.

My D3100 and D3200 are fully electronic, so unless you buy the expensive tubes that pass the connections through, you loose the ability to control the lens (manual focus is okay).

Hence why a lens with the manual aperture ring as well as focus is very handy.

I did this with a simple extension (I think it was the two smaller ones.)

http://www.element14.com/community/people/Problemchild/blog/2013/08/03/macro--the-art-of-seeing-clearly#comment-24980

This was 1/3 sec at probably F8 using natural light but reflected off a white reflector.

By contrast this was 20s at probably f22 and not so much light.

For the diffuser, you could simply bounce it off a white surface, which then allows control over the spread.

The other option is to use tissue paper to shoot through.

I would still think about using reflectors around the other sides of the board, since you want to reduce the shadows,

You can purchase light boxes, or make your own.

I need to spend some time doing focus stacking   ...( I wish the list was shorter so I can have a chance to get through it).

If you have the opportunity, always shoot in raw format (basically its a dump of the sensor) so you can tweak the photo.

Mark

Mark,

Many thanks for the info.

Can't I control my lens aperture and shutter speed using the M mode (Manual) on my SLR?

Here's someone's way of using it for video mode which I would guess be the equivalent of using an extension tube?

Shallow DOF on T1i with Canon EF/EF-S lenses on Vimeo

Very Compact

Compact

The DOF button makes the lens stop down, so in theory you can see the result.

It works fine for bright well light subjects, but in this case they are 'cheating' by choosing an F setting, stopping the lens down using the DOF, then undoing it so it can't change.

A quick check of ebay, and a set that passes the contacts thru is only US$36, so its not worth mucking around.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-Auto-Focus-Macro-Extension-Tube-for-CANON-EOS-EF-S-T5i-T4i-T3i-T2i-T1i-100D/390638976486

Mark

Hi Mark,

Change the F number for a lens is a good way to do some really cool photography.

I use it for my telescope to get some amazing levels of magnification for catching the planets, especially the bright ones, with a good level of details.

The technic also works for terrestrial objects.

DAB

DAB

You are right, and I used to think that lens worked well from their lowest to their highest aperture until I read this.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/50-comparison/f-stops.htm

He has some other practical advice http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech.htm

His best entry is this one titled Why Your Wife Wants You to Get an Expensive New Camera http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/wife.htm

Ken also has a very good piece on Bayer Interpolation, which explains why most digital images (in raw form) don't look sharp.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/bayer.htm

I always end up using 1 or 2 sharpness on my images, and it makes a difference.

A very large telescope is on my list, but it keeps getting shoved further down ....

Mark

DAB

You are right, and I used to think that lens worked well from their lowest to their highest aperture until I read this.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/50-comparison/f-stops.htm

He has some other practical advice http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech.htm

His best entry is this one titled Why Your Wife Wants You to Get an Expensive New Camera http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/wife.htm

Ken also has a very good piece on Bayer Interpolation, which explains why most digital images (in raw form) don't look sharp.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/bayer.htm

I always end up using 1 or 2 sharpness on my images, and it makes a difference.

A very large telescope is on my list, but it keeps getting shoved further down ....

Mark