3D Printer support

You've got some of the major necessities down. Judging from your picture, you'll need the pulleys, belts, linear rods, threaded rods, and nuts for threaded rods. Not to mention all the hardware, nuts, bolts, washers, bearings, cut frame pieces, wires, 12v psu, and any parts you might need 3d printed. Make sure you decide which filament you'll be buying when you choose your extruder. You wouldn't want to buy a 1.75mm nozzle and 3mm filament.

If you haven't worked with a 3d printer before, I'd recommend just buying a kit as your first. It is usually cheaper.

Everything on your list is coming from China anyway... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Geeetech-official-Unassembled-Full-Acrylic-Frame-Prusa-Mendel-I3-Sanguinololu-/331420680085?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&var=&hash=item4d2a363f95

You can also buy a "bundle" and put it in any frame you build... http://www.ebay.com/itm/Geeetech-RepRap-kit-RAMPS1-4-2560-A4988-hoted-bed-MK2A-Hotend-stepper-motor-LCD-/331358205919?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d267cf7df or http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Ultimaker-Mega2560-LCD2004-Controller/dp/B00GJD7L3Q/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1424671462&sr=8-13&keywords=ultimaker

Thanks for response.

Like I said, I would like to build my own. And I also watched a bunch of tutorials and I think i am capable to build one mysel

Ok, so that power supply I have a bunc of them from old PC's just how much current does it need to supply to the printer ?... I think i can get all the hardware stuff at my local hardware store so i don't think that is a problem. Also what fillament would you recommend me ? what thicknes should I use? And for the type I think i would use ABS - that one is stronger am I right?

So that design that I did, would it be OK if i would put the stepper motor that pushes the fillament somewhere else and put just the hot end on the "moving part"(X,Z axis)?

I use 1.75mm. It seems to be becoming a standard amongst printers. Some people have strong opinions for either. Just like size of filament, the type (ABS, PLA, other) each have there advantages and disadvantages. And again, everyone usually has strong opinions for either. The strength of each material only matters by what you plan on making.

Almost all computer psu's will have enough current so you shouldn't have any problems there.

Mounting the extruder somewhere other than to the hot end would be utilizing a Bowden tube. Again, people have strong opinions on either. It will be less weight on the x-axis allowing for faster movements thus faster printing. Some people don't like them because of OOZEBANE. This means your retraction settings will need to be higher. If you ever want to print in NinjaFlex, you won't be able to use the Bowden tube.                                                        

There are plenty of opinions and discussions on all these topics. Just visit http://forums.reprap.org/, The design you are going for may have already been built so you may get a shopping list for the things that may have been overlooked. Go ahead and read as much as you can about everything. I don't recommend asking any "what should I use?" questions. Either you may be ignored because those questions have been asked many times, or an argument will ensue because of their strong opinions.

I wish you luck on your build.

Thank you much It helped me a LOT

Oh and that NinjaFlex - i am guessing that that filament is more like rubber and it would kinda get "stuck" in the Bowden tube or am i wrong ?

Yes. It's friction is higher than ABS or PLA so sliding through a PTFE tube  will be harder. Also since it is "softer" it can smash and bend inside the tube creating a bind.

One though. Using screws for the Y and Z axis will have a much higher resolution than the X axis which is belt driven. While the screw also increases the lifting ability of the Z axis, you dont gain much in the Y axis over using another belt or you could use a screw to match the resolution of the X to the Y.

So should I use threaded rods on X,Y and Z ? Doesent that slow down the whole print or will it be OK ?

EDIT: Could I use gears to increase the resolution?

I don't know what Mark Huey was talking about. There is no reason why changing a belt to a threaded rod in one axis (Y) and not the other (X) would make any sense. I took it as some sort of miscommunication and was just going to not reply.

Threaded rods will definitely slow the printer. This would be the equivalent to using a CNC machine as a 3d printer.

Yes, you can use gears. This will also slow the motors. There are so many steps per revolution depending on the motor you use. The more steps per inch the higher the resolution. But your motors can only spin so fast. In other words, slower movements. You will also need to make everything tight fitting. Any "slop" between gears and that takes away the added resolution you are going for.

Ok. So i will stay with the belt on X and Y and on Z i will use rod - the Z doesen't need to move fast right?

So those stepper motors i will buy it says "Step Angle: 1.8 degree+-5%" - is that the "resolution" of the motor and is that ok?

You probably won't get a full turn of the screw on the z-axis for each layer. It doesn't need to move fast.

1.8 degrees is pretty much the standard to use. The resolution is a factor of the gearing system. Resolution measurements is accomplished by calculating how many steps (or 1.8 degrees out of 360) your motor takes causing the circumference of your pulley to move your belt a linear length of 100mm. This is all a part of calibrating your printer when you program your controller board.