Raspberry Pi Pirate Radio -- Episode 355

This looks like a fun project to do with my son. I wasn't able to open this 'exclusive to members' content until I became a member. When I did I was expecting some more detailed documentation on this project, but only saw a parts list which, while helpful, wasn't necessary. Is there any 'deeper look' documentation? Particularly regarding the low & high pass filter circuitry? I'll admit I may be overlooking the link, but any help I would appreciate.

Kind regards!

Hi Nathan!

This was one of the very early projects on element14 Presents, before we really got into our groove, so to speak, and I didn't get a chance to do much follow-up regarding band pass filters. However, since you've joined element14, you do have access to one of the largest communities of electronics engineers and enthusiasts to ask questions of!

Feel free to drop questions in these comments, or start a post in the RF community!

These links might be helpful to get you started:

RF (Radio Frequency)

The specified item was not found.

Software Defined Radio Lessons with GNU Radio

HI Nathan,

No worries, I am pleased to try and help...  Filters are usually specified at the -3dB point and a Chebyshev filter is considered to have a sharp response.  So, everything below 90 MHz in the design I posted is greatly attenuated as is everything above 110 MHz.  The band in between passes most of the signal although Chebyshev have more ripple and are not quite as flat as some of the other filter types.  This ripple is more easily seen in the design that Shabaz posted although mine would have it as well.  For this particular crude application I think we can ignore that however.

As Shabaz has noted, there is variance in the components we are using and so it is necessary to have some kind of a plateau either side of the design point (102.9 in your case).  I had a look in my text which says Chebyshev are somewhat more sensitive to this but I think the design by Shabaz is sufficiently broad to cover that.  By the way, if I ever write something that seems to conflict with Shabaz, always go with what Shabaz says :-).  You could explore this by varying component value by their stated tolerance in the design tool if interested in the influence.

Now, how much should we worry about other stuff sneaking into what is being transmitted?  And it is important to remember this is transmission, not reception.  I haven't really investigated the radio here but it is bit banging the output if I remember correctly.  That means the Raspberry Pi is generating rectangular output over time varying between 0V and 3.3V.  It gets rounded off but it is still a really ugly signal.  If we look at it in the frequency domain then there will be lots of harmonics at other frequencies.  This is of course undesired in transmission because it causes interference across the spectrum.  But how bad is it?  First of all it is really low powered so it isn't going to transmit too far anyway.  Nonetheless, it is interesting to try and attenuate those harmonics and get rid of undesired energy away from the design point.

To give an idea of what happens, the FFT below is from a post I made a while back on entry level digital storage oscilloscopes with FFT capability.  It is a 49 kHz signal from a clock with a strong 148 kHz third harmonic.  The spikes that can be seen would be equivalent to the undesired transmission we want to get rid of.  Note that the 3rd harmonic and the primary signal are quite a ways apart (49 kHz Vs. 148 kHz).

Your signal won't look like this, just giving you an idea of what is going on.  If it was a perfect sine wave there would be no harmonics.  Your signal will have harmonics spaced some distance from the desired 102.9 MHz just like my FFT.  The idea with the filter is to make sure the radio transmission is inside the band pass and the harmonics or at least most of the undesired energy are outside of it.  Make sense?

Frank

Yes this is great Frank, a lot of good points here! One might accuse me of overthinking this project, but I have an OCD nature and you understand me with "it is interesting to try and attenuate those harmonics and get rid of undesired energy away from the design point". This is really about exploring what I can and cannot do. I obviously got the project working I just want to dabble and experiment with the filter side of things; clean it up if you will. Thanks again and until my next 'point of confusion'...

nk85  Forgive me if someone else has already mentioned this and I missed it but... you're using wirewound resistors (aka inductors).  You would have gotten better filtering if you would have used carbon film.  This little adaption cleaned up my pirate radio output.

As fmilburn states, the Pi is bit banging the signal out so I opted for a simple lowpass filter to attenuate the harmonics.

Thank you for bringing this back up.  I've been thinking about digging back into trying to make this work at Amateur Radio frequencies.  Wow.  I hope I didn't try this a year ago with the lowpass filter in...

Good point.  And the breadboard added unknown capacitance as well. 

Hi Nathan,

Frank's right, he picked a better filter design actually, and both should be good enough for your scenario.

You had the right approach, exploring website calculators, it's just that the particular input and calculator produced something that in practice was more unrealistic.

But this is the normal way, everyone uses the website calculators or software to design filters, and exploring how things change as values are modified, or as more stages are added (for steeper roll-off). It's a cheap way of virtually experimenting without needing to buy components, but it will be only as good as the values you feed it. For instance, if you known your components have (say) 5% tolerance, then you'd have to run your formulas or simulation with the different expected values, to at least see if the effect is significant or not. Prior to online calculators, people used tables from books.

There are free simulators like LTspice for totally custom component configurations (as opposed to calculators which will only offer defined topologies), which you could use too, but for filter design and other small building-blocks it can be better to use online calculators, since they are pre-progammed with established topologies.

When you come to want to test it with test equipment and draw the frequency response, the NanoVNA is probably a good way (quite low cost too), I've not used it, but there's several blog posts by others experimenting with it and it looks ideal for this.

Hi there, I'm back at it for a bit. Some fun with paint lol - it's been ages. Can you tell if if I'm somewhat on point here? I've attached an untampered image if you want to use it to correct my mistakes. Thanks so much!

Hi Nathan,

Those proto hats are nice as they allow the breadboard to be transferred directly to a more permanent solution.  I suggest putting it on a breadboard first, make sure it works, and then solder it like it was breadboarded.  There are some issues with it at the moment:

• Rs is the supply resistance and won't be on your board
• Rl is the load resist and is the speaker - it is not on the board either
• Remember that the vertical strips on each side of the breadboard gutter are connected.  If wired as shown, it will be necessary to cut the trace which is unnecessary if wired differently.
• Use the lead wires on through hole parts to minimize the soldering and no traces need be added to the back
• The ground and +5V/+3V are already connected to the power rails
• Run the wire to the input from the inside rail - as shown it is connected to the header that plugs into the Pi

I'll try to mark up the board and post it in a bit.

Have a look at this....

I can't remember which pin is the one bit-banging on the Pi so check that.  There are lots of ways to lay this out but note that this will minimize soldering by using the leads on the components and traces on the protoboard to make the connections.  If you decide to string it out the same way as in the schematic that is OK but I like to put the wire on top of the board, and not bridge solder or put wire on the bottom as it is easier to see the circuit and I think looks better.  But that is just personal preference.

You might want to flip it 180 degrees as well depending on where the speaker wires go which would also minimize the jumper length from the Pi pin to the filter input.

Wow, I really appreciate you taking the time to highlight those points and for marking up a sketch. By 'speaker' do you mean 'antenna'? Some of the components I was needing were only available in SMD, so to over come that I was going to use an adapter, of sorts, as in the image below. Meaning that I couldn't stretch it like you set it up. I'll either have to modify my bandpass components based on availability with 'through hole' or keep the schematic as I built it and make adaptations based on what you did.

Doh!  Yes, I have been working on an audio amplifier :-)  Embarrassing sign of old age...

Doh!  Yes, I have been working on an audio amplifier :-)  Embarrassing sign of old age...