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Forget Me Not Design Challenge
Blog Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Outlets
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  • Author Author: mcb1
  • Date Created: 14 Aug 2014 7:48 AM Date Created
  • Views 1580 views
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  • Comments 7 comments
  • forget_me_not
  • openhab
  • iot_eldermon
  • tektronix
  • eclipse
  • enocean
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  • forget_me_not_challenge_2014
Related
Recommended

Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Outlets

mcb1
mcb1
14 Aug 2014
Link to other posts
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Intro
Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Electrical
Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Outlets
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Planning
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Parts 1
Forget Me Not :  eLDERmon  Sponsor Parts
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Hardware Hacking
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon GNUplot
Forget Me Not: eLDERmon Protocol
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Hardware Hacking #2
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon Hardware Hacking #3
Forget Me Not : eLDERmon OpenHAB

 



While this is a repeat of my last blog, its important enough that it should be repeated.


The Forget Me Not challenge throws up opportunities for interfacing with electrical devices.


There are many ways this can be accomplished, but sadly I do see some dangerous practices, that are posted by the ignorant.

        image

Dangers
Electrical safety isn't something to be dismissed, since it can kill.
Generally the victim isn't someone working with the Mains voltage, but an unintentional contact (ie by accident)


The essential bit of safety around mains is ensuring there is two layers of insulation.



RF Controlled Outlets

I have used these RF controlled outlets before.


image

photo source www.wattsclever.com (showing the later version)


They feature a programmable code, come in a variety of styles to suit different countries .... and they have very good instructions.


When I first ran across them, I thought I was going to have to hack the remote (the magazine publisher commented ...'finally some real hacking' ... or words to that effect), but a little digging and I found these guys already had the code sorted, and produced a library to use with Arduino and now Raspberry Pi.
https://code.google.com/p/rc-switch/


So while I've seen various methods of controlling the mains voltage, in my opinion many are NOT safe, have not been tested and are often more expensive than some commercial units.

As I showed in my last blog, its often the unintended contact that causes problems.


Insurance

One of the other things to consider is Insurance.

If for some reason the device that you built was to catch fire (possibly due to electrical spike, rather than poor construction) would your insurance cover you.?

In New Zealand with the Insurance companies getting a hiding over the Christchurch Earthquakes, many are finding ANY reason to invalidate claims.




Feedback

While the RCswitch software could be set to send the code 1 to X times to ensure it got through, there is no feedback if the socket was turned on manually.

For this challenge knowing that the socket is ON is part of the automation, and short of always sending the OFF command (or an ALL OFF) it would be useful to know.


So I spent some time checking the internals.



image
This is the inside of the simple version.



image

This shows that pesky IC with no markings. image


So not really a lot of room to add extra hardware.



By chance I also had another version by a different manufacturer.

image

The antenna seems to dominate the upper area, but much more space.


image

The underside shows a few more parts, but of more importance is the cut in the board to ensure the mains voltage can't track across the surface to the low voltage side.

The device is double insulated so no-one can come in contact with anything, but its nice to see they have gone the extra mile with safety.


I couldn't get this one to work with the RCswitch code ... however the nice Tektronix Oscilloscope coming will probably help resolve that. image

Last time I looked, it wasn't available in NZ but the large Australian hardware Chain selling them is represented here ...



I'm now stuck with what do I do.

Do I design a new board that will receive codes and switch a relay, along with report the state back, or do I add a micro and transmitter just for feedback.?


I do have a lead (no pun intended) on another that might be better suited for modification.

I'm also thinking of other options that ideally would include current checking or measuring and provide feedback.



RF Transceivers

Thanks to EricTsai   electronichamsters

( Inexpensive & Flexible Home Automation / Wireless Sensors ) 

I ordered a few (well 18 actually) RFM69xx modules, in varying frequencies.


As you can see by the picture below they are very small.
image

RFM69xx next to a AA battery.

Shortly my Rural delivery driver is going to get sick of coming up the drive for a signature, but unlike Xmas I can order what I want.


I have added some ATtiny85 in both DIP and SMD to my element14 basket, but I need a few more bits before I commit it.

So in the meantime I brought a couple and a programmer from my local supplier Hadley and they will be here tomorrow.

https://nicegear.co.nz/


In the last challenge I had some issues with programming them, and while I want to sort it out, I have a few other tasks that deserve my attention.



So I guess I know what I'll be doing over the weekend.

I'm also hoping to do a comparison for the range, but I really need a fine day ... ie one where you want to go outside.



Mark


Frederick and Christopher you'll note that I did learn and did this early ...image


edit 030914
Attachment is the codes the Watts Clever use.




Attachments:
Codes.xlsCodes.xls
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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to Robert Peter Oakes

    Cheers

    Although I wouldn't be making the statement you've been belted. ....

     

    Given all the issues and other problems, a commercial product is the better method.

     

    Mark

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  • Robert Peter Oakes
    Robert Peter Oakes over 11 years ago

    The Minions Guild approve of the health warnings image along with the TM group I'm sure.

     

    we all should take a lesson from mark on this one, I have had my fare share of belts over the years where it was necessary to be working on mains but I definitely agree that if you can avoid the need for directly connecting to mains and putting yourself at risk, you should. And as Mark stated, most of these devices can be powered by SAFE voltages for debug and test.

     

    If you have not been taught how to work with MAINS, DONT!!!, get a device like those shown above to make it safe for you or someone qualified to help

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  • fvan
    fvan over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    Yeah, let's avoid blog posts about houses burning down or people getting hurt ...

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  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to fvan

    Nice pics.

    Either the LED or the pin driving the transistor that switches the relay should work.

    The biggest thing might be to ensure the receiver doesn't end up throwing its toys out when you send the reply.

    I'd be leaving an output that goes high when its transmitting to allow another transistor across the data input pin.

     

    These should be able to run on 24v DC (and lower without the relay), so NEVER be tempted to work on them live.!

     

    Mark

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  • fvan
    fvan over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    Here are some pictures of the guts of my Elros:

    imageimage

     

    There seems to be enough room to cram an additional circuit in there. I'm thinking of an ATtiny with 433MHz transmitter.

    And to probe whether the socket is on or off, the LED pin could be used (LED is on when socket is on and off when socket is off).

     

    Frederick

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