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Member's Forum Testing a Mosfet and Schottky in-circuit; Bit more advice
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Testing a Mosfet and Schottky in-circuit; Bit more advice

Andrew J
Andrew J over 7 years ago

I presume this is possible with power off, looking for resistance between drain and source?

 

I'm pretty sure I've killed it - resistance is 0.33Ohms between these two pins image  Out of circuit, on a good one, it is > 13MOhms.  Looking at my circuit, I've solder the Schottky Rectifier the wrong way around - cathode to ground imageimageimage  Pretty sure that won't have done the Mosfet any good, it was too hot to touch.  Can't believe I've been so stupid - by good luck, rather than management, the other Schottky I have in the circuit (not shown below) is the right way around.

 

Is there a way of testing the Schottky rectifier in-circuit - I've tried it and the DMM 'beeps' as it detects a normal junction; measures 0.159v and 0.579V depending upon orientation of test leads?  Just to clarify - in the schematic below you can see how the Schottky rectifier should be - however, as I say, it's actually reversed and I don't know if that might affect readings. So, with the COM lead to the cathode and test (red) lead to anode it reads 0.159v; with the COM lead to the anode and test (red) lead to cathode it reads 0.579V.  I can test one out of circuit and I get 0.157V and OL respectively.  I think that indicates it is ok but in circuit it isn't reading as OL: I have to remove it to swap it around in any case so would the advice be to chuck it and use a new one? 

 

I'm really hoping I can get it off with wick and an iron and without damaging the board; ditto the Mosfet. I really don't want to lump out for a rework station.

 

Is there likely to be damage to other components down stream?  Any tips for testing components without removing them from the circuit?

 

This is only part of the circuit but shows the relationship between the Mosfet and Schottky rectifier:

 

image

 

[silently screaming inside]

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  • jc2048
    0 jc2048 over 7 years ago

    Resistance reading in-circuit is difficult because of paths round through the power and through the ICs [via the protection circuits]. You'll tend to see initially low readings that move because you're charging decoupling capacitors. I don't like doing it because of the possibility of damage to chips [a handheld meter is probably worse than a good bench meter in that respect], but then I tend to be very over-cautious.

     

    Commercially, you'd chuck the components and use new ones (the parts cost is much, much lower than the cost to you of a person messing around with parts that are suspect). Actually, you might well label the board carefully, put it to one side, and move to the next, unused prototype, unless there were good reasons for sticking with the same one.

     

    For a personal project it's different and you may want to experiment a bit. The MOSFET and Schottky are fairly robust. Just because you can't bear to touch it doesn't mean it is dead. The controller is working current mode, monitoring the current through the MOSFET with R2. With the back-to-front Schottky clamping the output, the controller would keep increasing the current through the MOSFET to try and get the voltage up but there would be some limit to that, so the part's dissipation wouldn't necessarily have been enough to destroy it.

     

    So you might try just reworking the Schottky [if the Schottky SMD package is the type with fold-under legs, they're easy to get off even with a standard soldering iron as you can lift one end at a time]. Are you able to substitute a bench supply for the power rail? If so, one approach might be to apply a very low voltage that was under the controllers's lock-out voltage and was safe for the following circuit and see if the MOSFET feeds that to the coil without there being any gate drive.

     

    The feedback arrangement is a bit odd [and, possibly, a bit dangerous]. If you lost the connection to R6 you'd lose the feedback and the converter would ramp up the voltage to try and compensate, so you want to be careful with that depending on where it comes from and what it's supposed to be doing.

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  • Andrew J
    0 Andrew J over 7 years ago in reply to jc2048

    I wasn't sure how possible it was to test in-circuit and how skewed the result would be. 

     

    However, having taken both pieces of the board, the Schottky rectifier is reading 0.159Ohms and OL; a known good one is reading 0.157Ohms and OL.  I think that's ok and I put it back on the board in the correct orientation.

     

    The Mosfet is reading 0.33Ohms between drain and source (out of circuit).  A known good one is reading >34MOhms.  So I think the one I removed is dead.  In goes a new one and back to testing.

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  • Andrew J
    0 Andrew J over 7 years ago in reply to Andrew J

    Well, on the plus side, I haven't refried the Mosfet!  On the other hand, something isn't working the way it should as it's not turning on - gate voltage is only 0.5V.  U1 is definitely turned on - the ith/run voltage is >1.9V; it's getting power to Vin and Sense.  Back to the datasheet to try and get a better understanding of what that is doing!

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  • Andrew J
    0 Andrew J over 7 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Jon / Shabaz,

     

    I've added a comment covering Mosfet and feedback on to Part 11 to move the discussion over there.

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 7 years ago in reply to Andrew J

    Hi Andrew,

     

    Sorry, I'm just seeing this now (and not had a chance to read through all the work) I've had poor connectivity due to travel (short break to the south-west of England, to catch some sun.. until it rained!).

    Regarding the boost voltage, your output is designed for beyond 15V I think? (I can't recall). If so, then the design needs a zener diode perhaps, across the gate-source of the MOSFET, because most devices don't tolerate more than 20V or 30V for the gate voltage. You'll also need a series resistor for the gate (i.e. disconnect pin 6 [TG] pin of the IC, and put the resistor in series there), maybe 10 ohm. The zener could be a 10V one, which would still switch on the device very well, and leave safety margin. Unless I've misunderstood, it seems misleading that the datasheet does not mention this, since the IC is designed for up to 30V output.

     

    Also, it's hard to know if the control system you've got to adjust voltage, is having an effect or not. I was wondering, do you have a spare extra chip? If so, it could be worth just prototyping on some scrap board (or on another of the same PCB if you've got some spare) just that IC and parts in a conventional layout (i.e. using a potential divider pair of resistors to set a voltage), get that working confirmed at (say) a high voltage that you expect the design to be able to handle, and then try to add the control circuitry.

    Also, the part is from a distributor, right? (ebay parts are often fakes, that may or may not partially work. I've been burned by that in the past).

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  • Andrew J
    0 Andrew J over 7 years ago in reply to jc2048

    That would be useful - I have cross-linked to this thread (your original post) from Part 11.  I do have something to add about the feedback circuit so I can do it there. 

     

    When I say Vgs I actually mean the voltage on the output pin to the Mosfet gate, sorry.  But actually, I now understand this a bit better.  Voltage on the source is 17.4v, so it's ok for Gate voltage to be around 30.  I think you finally got it drummed in me image

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  • Andrew J
    0 Andrew J over 7 years ago in reply to jc2048

    That would be useful - I have cross-linked to this thread (your original post) from Part 11.  I do have something to add about the feedback circuit so I can do it there. 

     

    When I say Vgs I actually mean the voltage on the output pin to the Mosfet gate, sorry.  But actually, I now understand this a bit better.  Voltage on the source is 17.4v, so it's ok for Gate voltage to be around 30.  I think you finally got it drummed in me image

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