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Member's Forum Best device(s) for this cosplay
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Forum Thread Details
  • Replies 32 replies
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  • cosplay
  • raspberry pi
  • Metroid
  • Samus
Related

Best device(s) for this cosplay

Amethyst
Amethyst over 2 years ago

I'm assuming many of us here are gamers, and I don't have a better clue where I'd put this. I plan to make a Samus cosplay, from Metroid. Not dedicated to one yet, but thinking Varia suit. 

I have honestly been planning this for many years, but funding left me lacking. On that note, I'm thinking of a Patreon or something, but not sure what rewards would be. Off-topic from the site, but feel free to give ideas!

For the main topic, I'd previously planned to use a mini RasPi and maybe a PICAxe, but an restarting my design with a clearer head:  but I fell behind on tech and don't know what's available. Here's the list I'd like to try to include if you have clever ideas to add, I'm all ears!

-An intake and exhaust fan in the helmet, like RasPi mini fans (5v), for temperature and breathing. I plan to fit these in the "ears" of the helmet that the hoses attach to.

-Some kind of screen in the helmet that can tell me information from the board. Looking at battery level, temperature, and possibly proximity sensor information.

I'm not sure how I can implement this though. I was previously thinking of an oLED display in the past, but they were expensive. I'm wondering if it's possible to create a reflection display off the helmet "glass" (acrylic) over the face? I've seen it work on car windshields, but what am I looking for?

-Some kind of "life form" detection I can use, eg infrared or other ideas? I would feed that input into my display.

Arm Blaster:

-Ice Beam using compressed air, unless there's a good electronic alternative? 

-Ping pong or Airsoft pellets. Which would be cheaper to build? Doesn't need to be high pressure, of course. 

-Fireballs by flash paper and cotton with a glow plug. Suggestions on safest way to control it? Not sure I want a 12v stepper in my arm cannon, not sure if a lower voltage would do the job?

Overall, what electronics do you think are the best ideas to try for something like this that's generally low power, but collectively can be demanding?

The suit is planned to be built with overlapping panels, eg outer thigh strapping over inner thigh armor. I will probably hot glue the wires on the outside of the lower layers and use connectors for LED wiring and any possible sensors I may use (eg motion sensor for behind me). Looking for what your experience is on best budget connectors for that.

image

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  • beacon_dave
    beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to Amethyst

    This looks a fairly low cost way but may be tricky to fit it all inside unless you can oversize the helmet.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omNDLQ4cKnY

    It looks like it uses a convex mirror creating a virtual focus point somewhere outside of the helmet. You might want to try a quick test to see how close you can comfortably focus.

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  • beacon_dave
    beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to cstanton
    cstanton said:
    I'm not sure the pico projector he has linked is still in stock or available

    Farnell appear to be still selling them (but 100wk+ lead time).

    Buy Now

    Mouser have 200+ in stock.

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  • Amethyst
    Amethyst over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Thanks for trying to help! Thing is, I'm looking for a small one that I can fit into a helmet, to create a HUD, potentially by a "pepper's ghost" type of effect.

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  • Amethyst
    Amethyst over 2 years ago in reply to cstanton
    cstanton said:
    Larger fans are usually 12v fans, and they move more air while running at a slower revolution per minute, so it would be less noticeable than a smaller and higher-pitched fan running full speed, that's my reasoning for suggesting it.

    Thanks for pointing that out! I didn't know 12v ran at lower RPM. As long as there's a layer between my ear and the fan, would the higher RPM be less audible to me (since higher frequencies penetrate less), or are higher RPM fans just generally louder? There a term for the level of sound emitted by fans, or a bearing type that would be cheap but quiet?

    Not having controls handy is why I was thinking of just having it plugged: IDK where'd I'd put a switch or pot.

    cstanton said:
    You then alter the speed at which the air moves by how fast the fans turn, in combination you get more air moving and cooling effectively.

    Thanks for the explanation! Something like that was running around in my head.... I was already planning to run the airflow into the front bottom of the mask. I think I considered the breath thing when I originally designed that part. I also figured if I didn't put an exhaust, I may let it vent out down my neck. I'll look into the helmet ideas you mentioned!

    cstanton said:
    small projectors and using a small OLED screen via a 'peppers ghost' type of effect

    This! I didn't know there was a name for it! Thanks... but do you have any ideas how I can make this work, without potentially blinding a person when it's shining light onto the helmet? I also don't need anything high res, just like ability to draw a square (for detecting people) and things like temperature or battery levels.

    I remember an old arcade machine at a grocery store as a kid, it had baseball that used THIS exact technique to create an illusion that had it look like it was 3D! I'm so happy I have a way to look that up now! 

     

    cstanton said:
    I had meant 'boot' as that's the term for something to take time while it loads its operating system

    So question here... there a way to play a sound file when it's still loading? EG loading the Raspian screens in memory?

    All that aside, for the flash paper, it's pretty much harmless. My main concern is the ice canon.... I'd likely just keep a canister in my hand, inside my arm cannon, just for the showcase. I was just seeing if there was a better method. It uses a compressed air: If you turn it upside down, it sprays out the liquid that turns into a crystalized mist. I heard this can cause instant frostbite, so was hoping for a safer alternative. 

    And thanks for the all the discussion and being a great asset to this site! <3 

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 2 years ago

    I have no idea what this thread is about.. but I'm alright with that!

    I saw some mention of projectors.. I picked up this thing, it was so cheap. It's very likely LCD-based, not DLP at this price.

    image

    I wasn't expecting much, just something fun for kids to play with. However, it's a bit stinky (literally) in that it gets hot and smells!

    I would like to open it but it is either glued shut, or is very tightly clipped together.

    The image quality was better than expected! It doesn't work with all HDMI sources (maybe I need to set the source resolution) but this was from my Samsung phone's USB-C-to-HDMI connection, playing a video:

    image

    That was taken with the projector about 2.5 or 3 meters away from a slightly tinted wall. not quite white, and with room lights off since obviously it cannot output a lot of light. The image was slightly larger than the camera took (I had a portrait lens).

    I wouldn't leave this thing on unattended or near clothing.. there's an excellent chance it would catch fire... or burst if one chooses the Lithium-Polymer powered version. 

    In summary it is just an (unsafe) toy, but nevertheless image quality is better than what I had expected.. about as watchable as an old standard-definition TV.

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  • cstanton
    cstanton over 2 years ago in reply to Amethyst
    Amethyst said:
    Is there honestly a reason a complicate it using this? Just to save battery? So far, I'm planning to just connect the helmet to the main battery on my back.

    You can keep it as simple or as feature-filled as you wish. Whatever works for your peace of mind.

    I would consider doing the fan control this way because it would mean I wouldn't have to turn it on or off manually, and it would help to save battery power if it's not fully 100% constantly, you could also not have to think about controlling it.

    However, you could simply connect it up with a potentiometer to change the speed. Whatever works for you, but that means putting the controls somewhere.

    Amethyst said:
    I've never got to make anything with MOSFETS, AFAIK. With a fan blowing directly on me, I'm concerned too strong may be too much sensory. I'm also considering to run a hydration line from one of the shoulder pieces, like a hydration backpack. This would likely go down the tube from the right side of my mask, while air come in my left side, eg through the left hose. 

    Larger fans are usually 12v fans, and they move more air while running at a slower revolution per minute, so it would be less noticeable than a smaller and higher-pitched fan running full speed, that's my reasoning for suggesting it.

    Amethyst said:
    Would you like to expand upon this? I'm still considering how I'll want the exhaust to work, though I'm looking at intake being through the right "ear" bubble.

    From my understanding, it can be called "forced convection" and uses "pressure differential". This can cause the force of air to increase, and cool more effectively if there is a difference in pressure, if there are more things in the way between the intake and the exhaust, you typically need more pressure to move the air.

    Having two active intake fans and one exhaust fan, or no exhaust fans (simply a vent) causes a pressure difference, or having two exhaust fans, and only one active intake fan, or only intake vents, can cause a pressure difference. 

    You then alter the speed at which the air moves by how fast the fans turn, in combination you get more air moving and cooling effectively.

    A lot of the heat in your helmet will obviously come from your mouth and nose, so you could take the approach of having air intake at the front to counter the heat you're outputting, or immediately exhaust out the front. Perhaps a vent at the front would work, and then two or more fans elsewhere, which then will pull cool air in and over you, and expel the heat out. There may be designs online for 'cooling helmets' that could make sense and assist. I'm only spitballing ideas.

    Amethyst said:
    My question here is how would I make it work in this confined space? Ideas? It's one of the two things that's been holding up my project. Specific models in mind? I have been wondering if there's a small LED projector that works by reflection, but that may be worth it's own post if not answered here.

    I think beacon_dave's been posting good ideas on that one, I'm not sure the pico projector he has linked is still in stock or available but there are definitely small projectors and using a small OLED screen via a 'peppers ghost' type of effect can work. 

    Amethyst said:
    I'm perfectly fine with a "Boot Sequence". Hell, I can make that work amazingly!
    Imagine it's booting up, and plays the NES "Secret Area" music? Then when completed, it plays the "Same Start" music?! It making that music could also tell me my battery is dying, others here it as I seem to rush off (not knowing to change my battery).

    I agree, that does sound cool. I had meant 'boot' as that's the term for something to take time while it loads its operating system, but I think we can disregard that concern for your idea Smiley

    Amethyst said:
    There's a trick you can do with compressed air that it shoots ice crystals. I just try to leave it vague because it can be dangerous if not handled correctly.

    I admit, I've done that on a hot day.

    Amethyst said:
    I hear you. I've been friends with some convention owners, and their rules for attractions are different usually than guests. They also make exceptions for some cosplay props. I remember one year I cosplayed Raiden while wearing a gadget that covered my body in thousands of volts of static electricity. Sparks came from my fingertips near metal. For some reason, people didn't want to give me a high five. 

    Indeed, our e14phil has/had a license for working with special effects that behave in this way too. Maybe they'll also pop into the thread with some ideas.

    Amethyst said:
    Also, I'm bad at the quote thing.

    The site's a bit bad at being mobile-friendly, but I'm taking notes to talk with the dev' team about improving that, thanks for being patient with it. 

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  • beacon_dave
    beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to Amethyst

    Transparent OLED may be worth a look. Can look directly through it or reflect it.

    Qwiic Transparent OLED HUD Hookup Guide

    https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/qwiic-transparent-oled-hud-hookup-guide/all

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Xre5bewfVE

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  • Amethyst
    Amethyst over 2 years ago in reply to beacon_dave

    Thanks, I'll give it a go!

    I updated my comment to specify, I'm wondering if there's one that can work as a reflection, eg how some HUDs on cars reflect from the winsdhield. That's what I'm imagining in my head.

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  • Amethyst
    Amethyst over 2 years ago in reply to beacon_dave

    "VEGETTA! WHAT DOES THE SCOUTER SAY ABOUT HIS POWER LEVEL?!"

    LMAO I HAD to! But thanks! I could possible purpose this module in directly, or a reflect from the visor!

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  • beacon_dave
    beacon_dave over 2 years ago in reply to Amethyst
    Amethyst said:
    I have been wondering if there's a small LED projector, but that may be worth it's own post if not answered here.

    There is the likes of the TI Pico projector

    /products/roadtest/rt/roadtests/103/dlp_pico_display_pro#pifragment-4106=9&pifragment-4100=4

    image

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