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ZedBoard Hardware Design Zedboard power up fail
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Related

Zedboard power up fail

blake_ding
blake_ding over 6 years ago

Hi sir,

When I power on the Zedboard, the LD13(power) doesn't light and LD0 ~ LD7 all RED.

The only action was that I shorted the 3.3V of J18.
After that, the Zedboard seems crashed?

Could I reset it by myself?

BR
Blake

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  • ctammann
    0 ctammann over 6 years ago

    Hi Blake,

    Can you take a look at some of the outputs with a multimeter and let me know if they are powering up? Unfortunately there are no easy test points, we'll have to look across the output caps. Do you have any other boards plugged in to the PMOD or FMC headers?

     

    here is the schematic link - http://zedboard.org/sites/default/files/documentations/ZedBoard_RevD.2_Schematic_130516.pdf

    5V - C391

    1.0V - C356

    1.8V - C365

    3.3V - C334

    Vadj - C339

    1.5V - C351

    Thanks
    Chris

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  • blake_ding
    0 blake_ding over 6 years ago in reply to ctammann

    Hi Chris,

    The result of measurement as below :

    5V - C391 (5V ok)

    1.0V - C356 (1V ok)

    1.8V - C365 (I can't find this component, can you help to highlight it's location?)

    3.3V - C334 (3.3V ok)

    Vadj - C339 (it's 0)

    1.5V - C351 (1.5V ok)

    ------------------------------------

    I got a HDMI-FMC, when I plugged it on FMC slot and connect to the display output of NB; I can see the LD1 is turned on.

    BR
    Blake

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  • ctammann
    0 ctammann over 6 years ago in reply to blake_ding

    Hey Blake,

    IS the jumper to set the output for Vadj in place? Was it set to the right level when it was first powered up with the FMC card attached? The 1.8V supply is most likely active as it's Power Good signal is used to turn on the other supplies.

    You could also look across C340 or on the output side of L3. My initial thought would be that Vadj was set to the wrong voltage level with something attached to the FMC and possibly damaged that output. That may not be the case, but it the most likely culprit if the other supplies are starting up properly.

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  • blake_ding
    0 blake_ding over 6 years ago in reply to ctammann

    Actually, my original purpose is to verify the input of HDMI-FMC; and I refer to following website to :
    https://forums.xilinx.com/t5/Xcell-Daily-Blog-Archived/Adam-Taylor-s-MicroZed-Chronicles-Part-211-Working-with-HDMI/ba-p/786166

    Therefore, yes, I plugged HDMI-FMC and soldered the 3v3 of J18; then power up the Zedboard.
    After that, the Zedboard can't boot normally.

    No matter I replaced the jumper to 2v5 or 1v8 of J18, the C340 and L3 are both 0V.

    Could we rework the zedboard ourselves to recover it?

    BR
    Blake

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  • blake_ding
    0 blake_ding over 6 years ago

    Hi Chris,

    Does there any idea?
    Thanks.

    BR
    Blake

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  • jafoste4
    0 jafoste4 over 6 years ago

    Hi Blake, 

    It appears IC27 is damaged, however the issue could be multiple things. Typically in this scenario we urge our customers to replace the board with a known working one.

    If you really want to try to debug it I would suggest starting with replacing IC27.

    -Josh

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  • ctammann
    0 ctammann over 6 years ago

    You shouldn't need to solder anything on ZedBoard (I guess unless J18 was missing, but it should be populated). You need to install a jumper from pin 1-2 on J18 to set the output to 3.3V

    The issue with replacing IC27 is that if it indeed failed, what made it fail? There could be a short on that plane somewhere so it wouldn't fix anything replacing the device, it would just result in the new device shorting as well.

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  • blake_ding
    0 blake_ding over 6 years ago

    Hi JFoster and ctammann,

    If there is no clear way to restore the board.
    Should we send it back to agent or where for repair?

    BR
    Blake

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  • jafoste4
    0 jafoste4 over 6 years ago

    Hi Blake,

    Unless it is under the warranty period (60 days) we cannot accept it and offer a replacement.

    If you wish to send it to a 3rd party for diganostics please feel free, however that will most likely cost more then the worth of the board. My suggestion would be to just replace it with a new one.

    -Josh

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  • blake_ding
    0 blake_ding over 6 years ago in reply to jafoste4

    Hi Josh,

    Unfortunately, I think we have exceeded the warranty period.
    Let us go back to rework by ourselves.
    As you previous mentioned, maybe we can rework IC27 (MAXIM 15021).
    First, I measure the C339 and it always 0V no matter I switched the jumper to 2.5V or 1.8V.
    Therefore, how to measure IC27 and make sure it was shorted?

    BR
    Blake
     

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