element14 Community
element14 Community
    Register Log In
  • Site
  • Search
  • Log In Register
  • About Us
  • Community Hub
    Community Hub
    • What's New on element14
    • Feedback and Support
    • Benefits of Membership
    • Personal Blogs
    • Members Area
    • Achievement Levels
  • Learn
    Learn
    • Ask an Expert
    • eBooks
    • element14 presents
    • Learning Center
    • Tech Spotlight
    • STEM Academy
    • Webinars, Training and Events
    • Learning Groups
  • Technologies
    Technologies
    • 3D Printing
    • FPGA
    • Industrial Automation
    • Internet of Things
    • Power & Energy
    • Sensors
    • Technology Groups
  • Challenges & Projects
    Challenges & Projects
    • Design Challenges
    • element14 presents Projects
    • Project14
    • Arduino Projects
    • Raspberry Pi Projects
    • Project Groups
  • Products
    Products
    • Arduino
    • Avnet Boards Community
    • Dev Tools
    • Manufacturers
    • Multicomp Pro
    • Product Groups
    • Raspberry Pi
    • RoadTests & Reviews
  • Store
    Store
    • Visit Your Store
    • Choose another store...
      • Europe
      •  Austria (German)
      •  Belgium (Dutch, French)
      •  Bulgaria (Bulgarian)
      •  Czech Republic (Czech)
      •  Denmark (Danish)
      •  Estonia (Estonian)
      •  Finland (Finnish)
      •  France (French)
      •  Germany (German)
      •  Hungary (Hungarian)
      •  Ireland
      •  Israel
      •  Italy (Italian)
      •  Latvia (Latvian)
      •  
      •  Lithuania (Lithuanian)
      •  Netherlands (Dutch)
      •  Norway (Norwegian)
      •  Poland (Polish)
      •  Portugal (Portuguese)
      •  Romania (Romanian)
      •  Russia (Russian)
      •  Slovakia (Slovak)
      •  Slovenia (Slovenian)
      •  Spain (Spanish)
      •  Sweden (Swedish)
      •  Switzerland(German, French)
      •  Turkey (Turkish)
      •  United Kingdom
      • Asia Pacific
      •  Australia
      •  China
      •  Hong Kong
      •  India
      •  Korea (Korean)
      •  Malaysia
      •  New Zealand
      •  Philippines
      •  Singapore
      •  Taiwan
      •  Thailand (Thai)
      • Americas
      •  Brazil (Portuguese)
      •  Canada
      •  Mexico (Spanish)
      •  United States
      Can't find the country/region you're looking for? Visit our export site or find a local distributor.
  • Translate
  • Profile
  • Settings
GIZMO 2
  • Products
  • Dev Tools
  • Single-Board Computers
  • GIZMO 2
  • More
  • Cancel
GIZMO 2
Forum Gimzo 2 custom On/Off button?
  • Blog
  • Forum
  • Documents
  • Files
  • Members
  • Mentions
  • Sub-Groups
  • Tags
  • More
  • Cancel
  • New
Join GIZMO 2 to participate - click to join for free!
Actions
  • Share
  • More
  • Cancel
Forum Thread Details
  • State Suggested Answer
  • Replies 51 replies
  • Answers 2 answers
  • Subscribers 13 subscribers
  • Views 6124 views
  • Users 0 members are here
Related

Gimzo 2 custom On/Off button?

Former Member
Former Member over 10 years ago

Ideally I'd want to modify the BIOS to autostart without pressing any button. But if nobody ends up knowing how to do that, I'd like to at least have a custom proper button on my device's case for turning the Gizmo on. I've read one of the pin pairs can be used, but which ones?

 

mCPawjq.png

  • Sign in to reply
  • Cancel

Top Replies

  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago +1 suggested
    Hi Mark, The information is in this thread: http://www.element14.com/community/community/designcenter/single-board-computers/gizmo2/blog/2015/07/30/gizmo2--flash-bios-to-autostart-on-power-up . In summary…
  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member +1
    Hi Mark, Enrico is suggesting try it with a resistor, see if it works for you. If you observe some behavior that is undesirable (e.g. having to hold the button pressed for a long time) then it can be considered…
Parents
  • fvan
    0 fvan over 10 years ago

    Check out this post where I added an external power and reset button: http://www.element14.com/community/community/designcenter/single-board-computers/gizmo2/blog/2015/01/28/gizmo2-adding-external-pwr-and-rst-buttons

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Reject Answer
    • Cancel
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago in reply to fvan

    Oh wow, so much great tutorials I'm having hard time finding image

     

    So you didn't use a resistor?

    Is there any requirement for what button can be used. All I know is buttons have a maximum current rating, this shows how little my electronics knowledge is. But it's going to be fun programming the Gizmo after I get this figured out.

     

    PS. Is that a 3d printed enclosure? That's another hobby of mine.

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member

    Hello Mark,

     

    the on button (generically any switch of this kind) when it is pressed it put the signal from the I/O to the GND generating the logic signal for the device. So take a look to the next image showing a piece of schematics that is what you need:

    image

    The GND signal is in common with the Arduino ground and the GND side of your power button (check on the schematics of the Gizmo2 where it is).

    The other side of the button is connected to the collector of the transistor (that is, the pin 1 of the connector JP10 in the schematics above).

    The Arduino control pin (one of your choice, no matter if this is PWM or not) is connected to the PB1 signal on the schematics.

     

    When the Arduino pin (PB1) goes low, the JP10 Pin 1 goes low too shortcut to the GND signal, the same what the push button do.

    The Arduino setup() you should set is the following:

     

    void setup() {
    
      pinMode(OUT_FLASH, OUTPUT); // Flash
    
      // Your initialisation code here
    
    }

     

    Then, create a function to switch the pin in the desired mode (e.g. simulate push button for 4 seconds)

     

    void lightFlash(int duration) {
      // Simulate button press
      digitalWrite(OUT_FLASH, true);
      // Wait the nmber of ms needed with the button pressed
      delay(duration);
      // Release the button
      digitalWrite(OUT_FLASH, false);
    }

     

    And call the function where you need only when the arduino starts (maybe as the last instruction in the setup() function.

     

    Enrico

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member

    I suggest that you DON'T assume the question answered until you have not solved the problem by yourself or someone has not got you a correct answer.

     

    Enrico

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    There's a bit of language barrier but you're giving a great illustration and explanation. image I hope I understand it all. So the main difference between a relay and the transistor is transistor uses the same Ground as the controlled current?

     

    I just dont get one thing, what about the pico projector button emulation?

    As I understood the ground for all has to be the same for some reason, right? Will I need to check the PCB of the pico and maybe post a close up photo so we can guess from where it flows?

     

    I don't really mind using a relay right now as I don't have much time left. You're teaching some interesting stuff which I'll probably need to know in the future, but for now if a relay could work, how about just using that?

    Just one thing, the device the switch is on is 12V DC.

    Does that matter for relays if the controlled power is AC or DC?

    I have a typical 1 channel relay shield right now: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=arduino+relay+shield&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xarduino+relay+shield+1.TRS0&_nkw=arduino+relay+shield+1&_sacat=0

     

    However, if you think I better go with the transistor route, I'm for it and thankful either way. I just don't want us to waste our time if the relay solution is simply only less practical way for doing this.

    Again, thanks for all this.

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member

    As I told you before, the transistor is equivalent to the relay. If you should manage 12 VCC use the realy. If you have no time and you already have the relay shield use the relay for the projector. The function is the same, nothing changes at all. But as you have so few time, why don't try to study two hours what I wrote and the link that we got you? Maybe you get more clear ideas instead of trying to copy and paste and nothing else.

     

    Enrico

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    I did read the link, I'm trying to understand everything honestly. I posted what I understood above, is it right?

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member

    Yes it is correct. As following the schematics and using the relay in the case of the high current (that you already have) I think you don't risk to make damage to the boards. Pay attention to the polarity and make the breadboard circuit then you can try to add the software and test what is working and what is not. If you have a tester, as 4 seconds is already a long time, you can see if the button simulator is pressed simply checking the voltage between the two pins of the signal and GND. When voltage goes to zero, it is sure that the shortcut is done. The same with the relay that you can hear distinct "tick" when the contact is closed.

     

    Let me know your progress. Enrico

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    Thanks. I was about to test it out and post a response but remembered that Arduino is 5V and I've got a 12V relay *facepalm*. I'll look for a 5v one.

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member

    You mean that you have a relay driven by 12V? If so, and you can't use / find the transistor you should find a relay driven at 5V else when you power it for switching nothing happens.

     

    Enrico

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    Yes, it seems I need a 5v relay shield for Arduino to use a relay.

    Arduino+relay is getting complicated option itself.

    Maybe it will be easier to jut use the transistor with the arduino after all.

    It's just two thing I don't get: how would I find out the ground side of the button of the projector? Voltmeter and checking if it shows positive or negative voltage?

    If the projector and arduino have a common ground, isn't it dangerous if one uses more current then the other can handle? (Arduino has 5 buttons connected and controls a servo motor). Or is connecting more stuff to GND not dangerous.

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member
    how would I find out the ground side of the button of the projector?


    Just check with the voltmeter and see where is the negative it's the GND. On Gizmo2 schematics are distributed for free and are very helpful to find also where ground pins are on the board connectors.


    No matter about GND, all ground should be connected. voltage does not interfere at all, if you connect things correctly.

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
Reply
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member
    how would I find out the ground side of the button of the projector?


    Just check with the voltmeter and see where is the negative it's the GND. On Gizmo2 schematics are distributed for free and are very helpful to find also where ground pins are on the board connectors.


    No matter about GND, all ground should be connected. voltage does not interfere at all, if you connect things correctly.

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
Children
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    I know about Gizmo, the video projectors ground is not known thats why I asked.

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member

    I supposed, so you should check with a voltmeter the negative should be GND

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    Will do and report back.

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member

    Ok.

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    Oh forgot this. The GND from the Arduino is 5V, from projector its 12V. Is that an issue?

    image

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member

    Mark gnd is gnd. Is voltage that is different. It is expected - don't offend - that you know at least the badis of electricity. Viltage are fifferen wirrs. Gnd is common and is gnd for all. If you put 12 over 5 you burn something. Afyer your tests use diodes for return current protection

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

    I understand, no offence taken. However, most of this is electronics, not electricity. You now mentioned diodes for return current protection, I didn't know about them. So if GND taking 12V and 5V wasn't a problem for the respective devices that wouldn't be needed, right?

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
  • balearicdynamics
    0 balearicdynamics over 10 years ago in reply to Former Member

    It is the worth to use diodes, in my opinion

    • Cancel
    • Vote Up 0 Vote Down
    • Sign in to reply
    • Verify Answer
    • Cancel
element14 Community

element14 is the first online community specifically for engineers. Connect with your peers and get expert answers to your questions.

  • Members
  • Learn
  • Technologies
  • Challenges & Projects
  • Products
  • Store
  • About Us
  • Feedback & Support
  • FAQs
  • Terms of Use
  • Privacy Policy
  • Legal and Copyright Notices
  • Sitemap
  • Cookies

An Avnet Company © 2025 Premier Farnell Limited. All Rights Reserved.

Premier Farnell Ltd, registered in England and Wales (no 00876412), registered office: Farnell House, Forge Lane, Leeds LS12 2NE.

ICP 备案号 10220084.

Follow element14

  • X
  • Facebook
  • linkedin
  • YouTube