Etch Resist from InkJet Printer?

"Nigel Molesworth" <reply@thegroup.email.invalid> wrote in message

news:tqfhm4hj3e62t70v7q8li96pi8adv2oh3a@4ax.com...

I've got an InkJet Printer that will print on CDs and DVDs.  Is it

possible

to print etch resist directly onto a PCB?

 

--

 

Nigel M

 

If I'm discussing apples, please don't suggest bananas

In general, no. Because (usually) standard inkjet printer ink will not

protect against etching.

You can use a laser printer and then use a hot (clothes) iron to transfer

the toner to the pcb. The toner is plastic and acts as a resist. See:

http://another-electronics.blogspot.com/2008/09/how-to-make-pcbs-with-laser-printer.html

You're not going to get fine pitch, though it should work ok if all parts

are through-hole (~ 0.1" pitch) and you keep your traces fairly large.

If you need fine pitch then try the photo process. See:

http://www.action-electronics.com/pcb.htm

for some methods & supplies.

IMHO neither method is good for more than 1 layer though, because of the

difficulty in registration (lining patterns up on both sides). The photo

method should allow up to 5mm pitch (with practice, temperature makes a

difference in photo development time required), so this can be used with SMD

parts.

On Sat, 10 Jan 2009 15:33:27 +0000, Nigel Molesworth

<reply@thegroup.email.invalid> wrote:

I've got an InkJet Printer that will print on CDs and DVDs.  Is it possible

to print etch resist directly onto a PCB?

I've never tried it, but I did a bit of research before I bought my

previous printer. That's a while ago, so things may have changed.

The biggest problem is that most inks are not water proof, so they

will wash off in the etch bath. Some inks, I think HP's pigment based

inks, can be used.

The next problem is that the ink may not bind properly to the copper

surface. Ink is intended to soak into the paper, but, again, some inks

suitable for glossy photo paper may work.

What it boils down to, is finding the right ink.

--

RoRo

On Sat, 10 Jan 2009 12:00:30 -0800, "Ron" <viaEagleForum@RGMEusa.com>

wrote:

You can use a laser printer and then use a hot (clothes) iron to transfer

the toner to the pcb. The toner is plastic and acts as a resist. See:

http://another-electronics.blogspot.com/2008/09/how-to-make-pcbs-with-laser-printer.html

You're not going to get fine pitch, though it should work ok if all parts

are through-hole (~ 0.1" pitch) and you keep your traces fairly large.

I use toner transfer whenever I want a quick prototype. I have no

problems at all with SOIC (1.27mm) or 10 mil traces. Recently, I did

an MLP-28 (0.5mm). That was a little problematic, but I got it working

in the end, by using the printers "econo" mode to get a thinner layer

of toner so it squished less out.

I use a laminator for the ironing. Much more repeatable and

predictable than a clothes iron.

IMHO neither method is good for more than 1 layer though, because of the

difficulty in registration (lining patterns up on both sides).

I have not tried two layers with toner transfer yet (I try very hard

to keep my designs to single layer), but with photo transfer, I got

very good results. I used a frame made from scrap laminate, and then

taped the two films onto the frame first, before sliding the board in

between the films. A two-sided UV light box helps, because it takes

some care to turn the fixture without moving the board inside the

frame.

--

RoRo

Nigel Molesworth wrote:

I've got an InkJet Printer that will print on CDs and DVDs.

I got an idea...

If i sticks to that plastic surface, i would guess it can stick to the

photo-reesist too...?

So if you work in a dark room and print on the photo resist, then expose

etc as normal?