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Etch Resist from InkJet Printer?

autodeskguest

I've got an InkJet Printer that will print on CDs and DVDs.  Is it possible

to print etch resist directly onto a PCB?

 

--

 

Nigel M

 

If I'm discussing apples, please don't suggest bananas

 

Parents

  • On Sat, 10 Jan 2009 12:00:30 -0800, "Ron" <viaEagleForum@RGMEusa.com>

    wrote:

     

    You can use a laser printer and then use a hot (clothes) iron to transfer

    the toner to the pcb. The toner is plastic and acts as a resist. See:

    http://another-electronics.blogspot.com/2008/09/how-to-make-pcbs-with-laser-printer.html

    You're not going to get fine pitch, though it should work ok if all parts

    are through-hole (~ 0.1" pitch) and you keep your traces fairly large.

     

    I use toner transfer whenever I want a quick prototype. I have no

    problems at all with SOIC (1.27mm) or 10 mil traces. Recently, I did

    an MLP-28 (0.5mm). That was a little problematic, but I got it working

    in the end, by using the printers "econo" mode to get a thinner layer

    of toner so it squished less out.

     

    I use a laminator for the ironing. Much more repeatable and

    predictable than a clothes iron.

     

    IMHO neither method is good for more than 1 layer though, because of the

    difficulty in registration (lining patterns up on both sides).

     

    I have not tried two layers with toner transfer yet (I try very hard

    to keep my designs to single layer), but with photo transfer, I got

    very good results. I used a frame made from scrap laminate, and then

    taped the two films onto the frame first, before sliding the board in

    between the films. A two-sided UV light box helps, because it takes

    some care to turn the fixture without moving the board inside the

    frame.

    --

    RoRo

     

Reply

  • On Sat, 10 Jan 2009 12:00:30 -0800, "Ron" <viaEagleForum@RGMEusa.com>

    wrote:

     

    You can use a laser printer and then use a hot (clothes) iron to transfer

    the toner to the pcb. The toner is plastic and acts as a resist. See:

    http://another-electronics.blogspot.com/2008/09/how-to-make-pcbs-with-laser-printer.html

    You're not going to get fine pitch, though it should work ok if all parts

    are through-hole (~ 0.1" pitch) and you keep your traces fairly large.

     

    I use toner transfer whenever I want a quick prototype. I have no

    problems at all with SOIC (1.27mm) or 10 mil traces. Recently, I did

    an MLP-28 (0.5mm). That was a little problematic, but I got it working

    in the end, by using the printers "econo" mode to get a thinner layer

    of toner so it squished less out.

     

    I use a laminator for the ironing. Much more repeatable and

    predictable than a clothes iron.

     

    IMHO neither method is good for more than 1 layer though, because of the

    difficulty in registration (lining patterns up on both sides).

     

    I have not tried two layers with toner transfer yet (I try very hard

    to keep my designs to single layer), but with photo transfer, I got

    very good results. I used a frame made from scrap laminate, and then

    taped the two films onto the frame first, before sliding the board in

    between the films. A two-sided UV light box helps, because it takes

    some care to turn the fixture without moving the board inside the

    frame.

    --

    RoRo

     

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