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KEYSIGHT TECHNOLOGIES
Forum component testing with keysight dsox1102g scope
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  • component tester
  • elenco
  • short
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component testing with keysight dsox1102g scope

johnwater
johnwater over 5 years ago

hello would like to learn how to measure components on my elenco am radio kit.

am new to electronics, trying to figure things out.

read about lissajous patterns, just need some direction as to how to set up my connections, see if components are functioning as necessary.

my 9 volt battery gets hot, no audio output,so  i think i have short somewhere?

thanks

john

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  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater +4 suggested
    The soldering is good. I see that most of the transistors are NPN. There's 2 PNPs that I can see (Q5, Q7). You have different part numbers for those? Electrolytic capacitors look correct (I can't see the…
  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to shabaz +4 suggested
    Looking at the potentiometer, it seems that it has been inserted from the wrong side (inserted from above instead of pushed in from the underside).. The movable switch part looks forced (blue), and the…
  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to fmilburn +4 suggested
    I think that the second pin of the switch is soldered to the wrong hole:
Parents
  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 5 years ago

    ... also, does the documentation say when you should plece the wire J1?

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  • fmilburn
    0 fmilburn over 5 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    It looks like J1 is supposed to be installed

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  • johnwater
    0 johnwater over 5 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    not seeing anything about a J1 in assembly, looks like they just leave it empty.

    john

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  • fmilburn
    0 fmilburn over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    J1 is the jumper wire on page 8 of the instructions - it looks like you installed it

    image

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  • johnwater
    0 johnwater over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    sorry my mistake, there is a J1.

    now i need to see where that goes.

    john

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  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    I think that the second pin of the switch is soldered to the wrong hole:

    image

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  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    I think that the second pin of the switch is soldered to the wrong hole:

    image

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  • johnwater
    0 johnwater over 5 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    Thanks Jan

    i see your drawing.

    lots of questions re this switch.

    I will de solder, take it off ,take some pics, then desolder and check.

    With my vom one of the pins was bent toward the housing of the switch, should be separate and part,so i have created a short.

    gonna straighten things out and repost some images.

    john

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 5 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    The pins that are southbound in that photo snippet belong to a couple of capacitors, connected to ground : ( And that's the same copper area near the switch. Hot battery issue root cause solved I guess!

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  • johnwater
    0 johnwater over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    took switch off, looked at connection points.

    still not sure that what is circled in blue is correct slot.

    i think these boards are made generic for other radios as wetland that slot seems to be  way off to the side.

    took pics of top and bottom of board.

    definitely had a part of pot on /off blade touching the base of pots i unbent it and straightened it out.

    gonna desolder everything and get back to u all.

    slot i circled in red appears to need to stay open, it just would be too outside the pot pins, may be for some other project.image

    thanks for all the help.better eyes than mine found a problem.

    johnpot imageimage

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    Hi John,

     

    The switch terminal cannot go in the nearer slot, because that area of copper connects to ground, you can follow it to the negative terminals of capacitors for example, and if the switch is connected to ground, that's a short to ground.

    I agree it's confusing, but that nearer slot is likely for a different potentiometer/switch, where perhaps the shell has a locating peg that could be soldered there.

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  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Yes, it has to go in the outer hole, sharing the copper trace with C14+ and jumper J1. The closer hole is for potentiometers that have a small hook on the housing to keep them oriented correctly.

     

    In the instruction manual, you can see that the 2 switch pins are bent outward.

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  • johnwater
    0 johnwater over 5 years ago in reply to shabaz

    he's the pot shell bas e does have a small tab on bottoms guess that should fit it the closest slot.but not sure it should be soldered?as it is underneath the base, hard to get to.the instructions not to solder 5 lugs' guess 3 wipers and 2 switch lugs, no mention of the small tab.

    thanks

    john

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    Hi John,

     

    It (mostly) doesn't matter electrically. As you say, it's just a 3 terminal potentiometer, and a switch. You can use judgement to determine if that lug needs soldering or not (e.g. based on how physically strong it is, etc.

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  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    the small tab should not be soldered.

     

    edit: some background on that:

     

    All the contacts are made of a compliant metal. When force is put on the potentiometer, the flex in the leads will absorb it and little force goes to the solder pad.

    The tab is made of hard iron and its role is to physically prevent rotation/slip. It's non-compliant, and any force on it is directly transferred to the sides of the hole it's mounted in.

    If you solder this, slip force will be put on the (weak by nature) solder joint. It either will crack or tear the pad off the PCB.

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