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New to Raspberry Pi & Raspberry Pi Programming - Can't get my screen to work

mrmrag

Hello everyone, my second post here, and I am so grateful for this forum. Really helps me with electronics.

 

So, in short, I am trying to program smart glasses, and I am using a Raspberry Pi Zero W (with the LiPo SHIM) to do that. I am also going to use the Mini USB Microphone in order to capture the audio and lastly a display)

Links:

https://www.adafruit.com/product/3196

https://www.adafruit.com/product/3708

https://www.adafruit.com/product/3367

https://www.adafruit.com/product/326

 

I have been trying to look for some ways to code for raspberry pi, and the only real way I found is through the Raspberry OS? It is super slow but it does the job I guess, if anyone has a better way to do it, all tips would be appreciated.

 

Secondly, I was trying to set up and test the display that I got, and I used the example code on this website. I am pretty sure I copied it correctly, I couldn't copy and paste because the raspberry pi is very... very slow(again, if you have any tips for speeding up te workflow would help a bunch.) but here is what I wrote (beforehand, I installed the adafruit blinka module, the SSD1306 library, and the PIL module. Did I miss anything?):

imageimage

 

The code runs but the display doesn't actually display anything, it's just black. Does anyone know how I can fix that?

 

Here is the wiring, maybe that is the reason (so sorry for my horrible soldering)

 

imageimageimage

 

I followed this guide on this - bottom of the page, I just used a different GPIO slot for one of the cables (reset pin - GPIO slot 13)

 

Is there anything wrong with the setup/display or with my code, also any tips to help with the workflow?

Another question: I will need to use the USB Microphone, but the USB port is used by my keyboard & mouse, is getting a USB hub the only way to use both, or is there another way to do it?

 

Thank you very much, I am sorry for such a long post and for taking up your time with such trivial questions. 

  • fault at wiring.....send me a msg n I will tell u exactly.. with pin connections.....stay workin ....

  • in reply to bizzlance

    Hello, thank you for finding the problem, I really appreciate it, but I can not just send you a message, unfortunately, would you mind explaining it here? In replies?

  • in reply to mrmrag

    I'd be careful with sending a message. That's not a common request on the community.

  • There are several versions of the display. Is yours a slightly older one that requires reset?

  • Never apologise for asking a question, everyone here enjoys helping out and problem solving.

     

    Looking at your picture of the board with the blue tab sticking out the right side with the 7 dupont leads going in are they soldered?  It looks like the last two are joined - is this the case, or just how you are holding it - they should not be touching each other? 

     

    Next thing, check the pins assigned in your code and double check you have them correctly connected on the board.  Your other pictures are too blurry to tell if you've connected the right PI pins to the right display pins.  You need to double and triple check those because to me it doesn't look like you've connected them to the PI correctly - I can't tell and I'm not sure.

     

    Here is a pin out for the Raspberry Pi Zero W - check the first answer with a pic.

     

    Your OLED board is connected like this from what I can tell:

     

    Yellow -> Pin 1 -> CS -> D5 in the code

    Green -> Pin 2 -> Reset -> D13 in the code

    Purple -> Pin 3 -> DC -> D6 in the code

    Blue    -> Pin 4 -> Clock

    White -> Pin 5 -> Data

    [empty] -> Pin 6 -> Vin (not needed)

    Orange -> Pin 7 -> 3.3V

    Black -> Pin 8 -> Ground

     

    As an example, in your photo it "looks" like the blue wire, which is CLOCK, is connected to the Pi GPIO13 pin which your code says is RESET.  Yellow, which is CS, looks like it is connected to GPIO10/MOSI when your code says it should be GPIO5 (D5) which is the 6th pin in from the left.

     

    Clearer photos might help.  Also, please beware that I've never used a Raspberry Pi Zero or that OLED board: I'm going to assume that D5 means GPIO5; D6 means GPIO6 and D13 means GPIO13.  Someone will correct me if I'm wrong!!

     

    Let us know how it goes.

  • in reply to Jan Cumps

    Yeah, definitely, especially with a very mew account.

  • in reply to Jan Cumps

    I actually do have reset, I had a very rookie mistake, I did not cut the J1 and J2 traces on the back and that is why it didn't work. Thank you so much for your reply though!

  • in reply to Andrew J

    Hello,

     

    Thank you so much for your reply! I am very thankful that someone helped me out. The problem was actually that there are 2 traces on the back of the board that I had to cut in order to see SPI and not I2C, so that is why it wasn't working. I'm still very thankful that you tried to help me!

     

    Thank you so much!

  • in reply to mrmrag

    Fillip, now that we have your attention image: I think it's best to clip off the pins on the solder side. To prevent shortcuts later.

    And maybe retouch the one but last to the right on your first photo with flux or fresh solder. That looks like a cold joint.

  • in reply to Jan Cumps

    Okay yeah! I will definitely do that as soon as I get home because yeah, I dont want to buy any more parts for right now.

    I am now having yet another problem, and it might include soldering, so I will post a question about that because I just want to be sure that I need to replace my current LiPo SHIM.