Anyone one received raspberry pi rev B 512MB  Made in China and how about its Production Quality?

Hi, I just wanted to clarify a few things... Although the majority of our production is now in the UK, due to customer demand we still make a few Raspberry Pi’s in China. All board deliveries from our partner in China have Made in China printed on them so you know exactly where your Raspberry Pi has been made.

Hi, I just wanted to clarify a few things... Although the majority of our production is now in the UK, due to customer demand we still make a few Raspberry Pi’s in China. All board deliveries from our partner in China have Made in China printed on them so you know exactly where your Raspberry Pi has been made.

Hi, I recently received my Rev2 Raspberry Pi (RPi) from Newark/Element14.

Summary:

Firstly, I was disappointed that the board was not made in the UK, but in China, however, the board looks fine. I soon discovered that the RPi crashed shortly after every boot-up and the monitor went blank. After many hours of experimentation and Googling, I concluded that my RPi is heat-sensitive. On 25 Nov I requested an RMI to return my defective RPi for replacement. I haven't heard from Newark/Element14 since then.

Details:

Soon after the first boot with 2012-10-28-wheezy-raspbian, RPi crashed. Suspecting a corrupted SDCard image, I just continued to explore compatibility with my new USB Wireless Adapters, my new wireless keyboard/mouse combo, and a different powered USB hub. RPi crashes happened ever sooner and levelled out at about a minute after power-up. Now I knew I had a problem to solve.

I fetched my RPi-Rev1 that was running raspbmc as my TV Multimedia device, and made it the gold standard for testing the RPi-Rev2. In all subsequent testing, test configurations were verified with RPi-Rev1 and then repeated with RPi-Rev2. I rebuilt and configured the 2012-10-28-wheezy-raspbian image on a new Transcend 8GB class 6 SDCard using RPi-Rev1, and used this SDCard for all subsequent testing on both boards.

I used the same USB keyboard and mouse, wired network connection, and monitor for all tests. Using the above configuration, I tested 2 powered USB hubs, I tested 2 walwarts that powered the hubs, and I tested 3 USB Type A to USB micro cables that powered the RPi boards. For each test, RPi-Rev1 was fine, and RPi-Rev2 crashed. During many of the tests, I observed the TP1/TP2 voltages with a new Digital Multimeter for both boards, and as a generalization I observed that the Rev2 board idling voltages were about 0.1 volt higher. However, alarmingly, voltages for both boards dipped below 4.7 VDC during boot-up (!!!); RPi-Rev2 crashed, but RPi-Rev1 didn't. I began to believe that it was 5V0 problem. That is, until I found that someone successfully ran his faulty RPi-Rev2 by cooling it with a fan!!!

I have no fan, so I used a bag of frozen Rhubarb to cool RPi-Rev2, and whada-ya-know, RPi-Rev2 ran perfectly for just short of two hours as I ran various utilities of the Desktop Environment. A few minutes after removing the frozen Rhubarb, RPi-Rev2 crashed and the monitor went blank. My RPi-Rev2 is temperature sensitive!!! Oops! Must be a soldering issue!

My RPi-Rev2 has the following attributes:

Sticker on bottom of board: FNXM121116732

Production Date: 1238

Made in China

Hardware revision: 000f

Serial Number: f30c7a74

Are there more people having this sort of problem? Should I nag Newark or Element14?

I have one that seems to have the same problem that Ron Niessen is experiencing.

I'm in USA, and I received 2 units 3 days ago. One is just fine, but the other crashes after a short period of operation. (Between 1 and 10 minutes.)

When it crashes, my HDMI display shows a "no signal" message, and all of the RPi indicator LEDs extinguish except for PWR. It takes a power cycle to bring it back to life.

The crash seems to come more quickly if I'm running X.

For the voltage measurements across TP1-TP2, the bad unit seems to settle at about 4.79, while the good one settles at about 4.83 after booting.

While watching the DMM during boot, I did see measurements as low as 4.59 on the bad one, but never below 4.7 on the good one. However, these readings might not mean much because of the meter's sampling and averaging rates with respect to the rapidly changing measured value.

When I use the other unit with the exact same connections, power supplies, and SD card, it has no such problem, and has run all night a couple of times.

(Wheezy has some memory leaks somewhere, but that's a different issue.)

I have not tried the frozen rhubarb, though. (Raspberry-Rhubarb Pi(e), anyone?)

The vitals from the bad unit:

serial 5b5e497a

date: 1236

revison: 000f

bottom label: E4612RS2V13B1.0

This one is also made in China.

BTW, the good one is also made in China, date code 1238.

I requested an RMA on the website yesterday, so I hope the exange will be easy.

Edit: I don't see any obvious production quality issues on either of mine. On both units, 3 of the P5 holes are filled with solder, and all of the P2 holes are filled. But I don't know how this was specified for production.

John Burt wrote:

 

When I use the other unit with the exact same connections, power supplies, and SD card, it has no such problem, and has run all night a couple of times.

Just a datapoint, for an older, original version, made in china board:

root@raspberry-pi:~# uptime

11:22:27 up 62 days, 16:19,  3 users,  load average: 0.16, 0.05, 0.06

I'm not using the new turbo-mode firmware or kernel, but as it originated as Arch it's overclocked to 800Mhz anyway. TP1-TP2 is 5.00v as I'm supplying power via P1. I also have a load of I2C sensors and stuff hanging off it and it's not had a problem.

I have exactly the same problem with a Pi that I ordered from Newark in late November. It is made in China, has some unpopulated component holes filled with solder. Otherwise it looks fine even under a microscope. I tested multiple power supplies, monitored them on a scope under load using advanced trigger etc, no problems there. When the Pi randomly crashes the screen goes blank, all the time the power LED is still lit. Sometimes the Flash LED is lit. I bypassed the polyfuse by connecting 5.00VDC between test points 1 and 2. Same behavior. Tried reflashing etc. I am going to return it now. Hopefully I can get a new one in a reasonable amount of time.

AZ