Raspberry Pi Switch???

Could you please give me more information about the "switch" rated at 7 volts. This number usually denotes the MAXIMUM voltage to be supplied through the switch itself due to current limitations.

The Raspberry Pi uses a power regulator to lower the 5v input from the usb connection down to 3.3v which is the rated input of the broadcom mcu at the center of the board. If however you wanted to power this device externally you would want a properly regulated 3.3v input with a switch inserted in series.

This is a good design to accomplish your goals. You may also do this with a standard USB cable it does not have to be an extention.

Inline RasPi switch

Here is the 7 volt switch

http://www.newark.com/honeywell-s-c/1nt916/toggleswitch-lever-on-off-spst/dp/39B3621?in_merch=Popular%20Switches

I would perfer to find a cheaper one like the one on the raspberry pi website, but I don't know what kind of switch that is.

                                   Thanks,

                                            Nehemiah Branson

P.S. I am only 13 so most of this stuff is confusing to me, but thanks alot for helping me.

Wow, that one's expensive and overkill.

I think one like this would work: SPST toggle switch 10A 24VDC.  The voltage rating is a maximum, i.e., you wouldn't want to use it in a 48VDC circuit.  It's fine to use this in a 5VDC circuit like RasPi.

I recently found out that switching DC circuits is actually quite nasty and you have to be careful to get the right switch.  The problem is that when you switch off a DC circuit, you get a spark between the separating contacts until they are far enough apart to kill the spark.  This spark lasts much longer than an AC spark, because in an AC circuit the voltage is constantly changing between positive and negative, so as the voltage passes through zero the spark dies.  The DC spark can damage contacts that aren't designed for it.

So it's imporat to get a switch that can handle plenty of DC voltage.  RasPi is only 5V, so a 24VDC switch is plenty.  RasPi's current requirement is only about 1A, so 10A gives plenty of margin.  DC switches for currents 1A and more have contacts that can handle DC sparks -- I think they use fairly thick silver plating.  Low-current switches often have contacts with very thin gold plating which gets vaporized by DC sparks.  Only use these for milliamp currents.

The Honeywell switch is rated at 250 VDC, which is way overkill and it's obviously designed for specialized high-voltage DC applications.

Another way to switch RasPi is to use an AC power strip with built-in switch.  This also switches off any peripherals, such as an external USB hub.

Thanks John,

     So the first switch you linked won't fry my raspberry pi right?

                                                                                               Thanks,

                                                                                                         Nehemiah

John Beetem wrote:

 

I think one like this would work: SPST toggle switch 10A 24VDC.  T

Or something like thisthis

I recently found out that switching DC circuits is actually quite nasty and you have to be careful to get the right switch.  The problem is that when you switch off a DC circuit, you get a spark between the separating contacts until they are far enough apart to kill the spark.  This spark lasts much longer than an AC spark, because in an AC circuit the voltage is constantly changing between positive and negative, so as the voltage passes through zero the spark dies.  The DC spark can damage contacts that aren't designed for it.

Also what are you switching ?  Inductive loads for example require additional thought.

Lookup "Paschen's Law", I don't pretend to fully understand it, but it gives some interesting information around the voltages needed to strike and maintain a spark over a distance under given conditions, but in short I don't think there's much to worry about in a 5v, low energy circuit.

Nehemiah,

     No switch can fry you Pi. Just find yourself any old switch and wire it in. At best the circuit will be at 1 amp of current, so realistically it makes almost no difference if you used a switch from car, an old computer or some old toy laying around. Just get a spare usb cable, cut the jacket(outermost insulation of the multistrand cable) off so that you have enough wire exposed to solder in a switch, Be sure to insulate any connections you make with heat shrink tubing or by whatever means you prefer. Ben Heck's last show "Wire we here" goes into good detail on this process. The link I sent you before goes through the process well. Then plug it in and go.

   And one last thing this "just thirteen" nonsense... You are obviously interested in this field of study, if for nothing else out of nessesity. Give yourself more credit! Most people your age are more interested in what they can buy, not what they can make. So good for you. You just need a little education and you will be able to surpass some, if not most individuals on these forums in time.

Good luck,

Uber

Thanks for the advice and confidence becasue I am only 13.

Nehemiah Branson wrote:

 

Thanks for the advice and confidence because I am only 13.

Hey, in another year you'll know everything:

Mark Twain wrote:

 

When I was a boy of 14, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to have the old man around.  But when I got to be 21, I was astonished at how much the old man had learned in seven years.

Nehemiah Branson wrote:

 

Thanks for the advice and confidence because I am only 13.

Hey, in another year you'll know everything:

Mark Twain wrote:

 

When I was a boy of 14, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to have the old man around.  But when I got to be 21, I was astonished at how much the old man had learned in seven years.