Featured Articles
Announcing Pi
Technical Specifications
Raspberry Pi FAQs
Win a Pi
Raspberry Pi Wishlist
Actions
Forum Thread Details
  • Replies 57 replies
  • Subscribers 716 subscribers
  • Views 7759 views
  • Users 0 members are here
Related

My lovely RaspberryPi is dead...

e14 Contributor

I was so looking forward to it and I was pleasantly surprised how the  RaspBMC from the NOOBS package worked, I have even bought a wireless  keyboard for it ( http://www.totalhtpc.com/logitech-k400r-wireless-touch-keyboard-review/ ) but...

 

The problem started about a week ago, when I had to unplug  everything to get the image going, as it was all stuck. Several reboots  and it started working again but all that unplugging and plugging it  back again - maybe it was the electricity somehow damaging some of the  HDMI/composite circuitry?

 

I can see  that it is powered up (there is red light inside) but neither HDMI, not  Composite cables give me any image whatsoever, on the TV.

 

I  have reformatted and copied the NOOBS files to the SD card, as  described on your pages - but I get no system booting in any way. Not a  flicker of an image on my TV.

 

The SD card seems OK, as I have dealt with it in my laptop without a problem.

 

I also tried other OSs, like RaspBMC alone, as well as OpenELEC. Alas, to no avail. The same applies.

 

I have tried different ports and different cables. Not a squeak.

 

Therefore, I must conclude it is the HW that is faulty.

 

Please, instruct me how to return the Pi to you.

 

A refund is preferable to "repair and return", at this point. No response from "sales" at Fernell, sadly... Just forwarded it to the other email...

 

========================================

 

In addition, I hope this might help a bit...

 

I  have read that Pi  might be susceptible to varying voltage/electricity problems. I have a  Belkin safety multiple extension cord, with serious protection against  electricity surges. So, can it still be an electrical mishap?

 

Or is it simply the power supply issue, as some here have suggested, in which case we would need a really good one, properly advertised here and on sales website...

 

May  I also suggest a ON/OFF switch, as a good idea, which may go  a certain  way towards preventing this from occurring. I understand that it only  uses very little electricity but I think this is beside the point.  Sometimes my NAS would not go to "Standby" mode after 10 minutes as I  set it up because it seems that RaspBMC could have been queering it?

 

Not  sure what exactly went wrong but I can see quite clearly that both HW  and SW improvements are possible. I would urge you to contact the patent  holders ASAP, in order to make the Mark III...

 

Best regards,

 

gorski

 

P.S. Anyone with multiple HDMI switches experience? I have this one in my mind: http://www.amazon.it/Ligawo-%C2%AE-switch-attivo-automaticamente/dp/B002I9LH2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382270091&sr=8-1&keywords=ligawo+5x1

Parents

  • Well, let's give that one a think. . .

     

    Now, it may defeat the original purpose, (which is a dubious one in my mind, I don't lose sleep over these little losses in prototype systems) somewhat, but an inrush surge limiter in series w/ da power could clear that up, maybe, at the cost of always having to draw 200mA.  Be a little brutish, but we could throw a backward Shottky diode across our load and hope our relay contacts don't weld before the relay actuates, a fairly safe bet, IMHO, if we are talking wall-wart.  Seems more bulk capacitance across the supply would help by allowing more time in the reverse-case. . .

     

    Frankly, if it is a little CMOS controller, I often just use a linear regulator to drop to my logic potential.  I just tell my self that the intervening diode(s) are helping my drop-out situation.

Reply

  • Well, let's give that one a think. . .

     

    Now, it may defeat the original purpose, (which is a dubious one in my mind, I don't lose sleep over these little losses in prototype systems) somewhat, but an inrush surge limiter in series w/ da power could clear that up, maybe, at the cost of always having to draw 200mA.  Be a little brutish, but we could throw a backward Shottky diode across our load and hope our relay contacts don't weld before the relay actuates, a fairly safe bet, IMHO, if we are talking wall-wart.  Seems more bulk capacitance across the supply would help by allowing more time in the reverse-case. . .

     

    Frankly, if it is a little CMOS controller, I often just use a linear regulator to drop to my logic potential.  I just tell my self that the intervening diode(s) are helping my drop-out situation.

Children