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Raspberry Pi Forum My lovely RaspberryPi is dead...
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  • raspberry_pi
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My lovely RaspberryPi is dead...

e14 Contributor
e14 Contributor over 12 years ago

I was so looking forward to it and I was pleasantly surprised how the  RaspBMC from the NOOBS package worked, I have even bought a wireless  keyboard for it ( http://www.totalhtpc.com/logitech-k400r-wireless-touch-keyboard-review/ ) but...

 

The problem started about a week ago, when I had to unplug  everything to get the image going, as it was all stuck. Several reboots  and it started working again but all that unplugging and plugging it  back again - maybe it was the electricity somehow damaging some of the  HDMI/composite circuitry?

 

I can see  that it is powered up (there is red light inside) but neither HDMI, not  Composite cables give me any image whatsoever, on the TV.

 

I  have reformatted and copied the NOOBS files to the SD card, as  described on your pages - but I get no system booting in any way. Not a  flicker of an image on my TV.

 

The SD card seems OK, as I have dealt with it in my laptop without a problem.

 

I also tried other OSs, like RaspBMC alone, as well as OpenELEC. Alas, to no avail. The same applies.

 

I have tried different ports and different cables. Not a squeak.

 

Therefore, I must conclude it is the HW that is faulty.

 

Please, instruct me how to return the Pi to you.

 

A refund is preferable to "repair and return", at this point. No response from "sales" at Fernell, sadly... Just forwarded it to the other email...

 

========================================

 

In addition, I hope this might help a bit...

 

I  have read that Pi  might be susceptible to varying voltage/electricity problems. I have a  Belkin safety multiple extension cord, with serious protection against  electricity surges. So, can it still be an electrical mishap?

 

Or is it simply the power supply issue, as some here have suggested, in which case we would need a really good one, properly advertised here and on sales website...

 

May  I also suggest a ON/OFF switch, as a good idea, which may go  a certain  way towards preventing this from occurring. I understand that it only  uses very little electricity but I think this is beside the point.  Sometimes my NAS would not go to "Standby" mode after 10 minutes as I  set it up because it seems that RaspBMC could have been queering it?

 

Not  sure what exactly went wrong but I can see quite clearly that both HW  and SW improvements are possible. I would urge you to contact the patent  holders ASAP, in order to make the Mark III...

 

Best regards,

 

gorski

 

P.S. Anyone with multiple HDMI switches experience? I have this one in my mind: http://www.amazon.it/Ligawo-%C2%AE-switch-attivo-automaticamente/dp/B002I9LH2Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382270091&sr=8-1&keywords=ligawo+5x1

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  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 12 years ago

    I'd go, maybe, 2200 uF w/ da e-lytic.  Your best protection against ESD indoors is humidity.  I have an off-the-shelf feedback controller running a dumb humidifier through an SSR.  Attached to the front-end of the controller is a linear humidity sensor I got for $20.  Whole deal just < $200.  Took me half-an-hour to setup.

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  • e14 Contributor
    e14 Contributor over 12 years ago

    After reading this post for no other reason other than a notificaiton on my droid I thought I would go mess with my RPi since I was having some trouble with RASPXBMC which turned out was because I needed a power supply with higher current. I resolved that with a 12$ mini hub I bought on a impulse.  Here is where it gets kinda odd.

     

    My 12$ hub is plugged into wall power

    The pi power is plugged into the Hub.  Great now it powers up.

     

    For giggles I plugged the hubs USB imput cable into the PI thinking this can't work.  I am creating a ground loop.  It works perfectly.

    So then I thought I wonder if I can plug in the wifi donge, keyboard and mouse to the hub.  It works PERFECTLY!

    Then I thought.  I wonder if it will also power my ARDUINO!.  It works perfectly and I can program it through INO over SSH through the Pi.

    Then I thought.  I wonder if I can put the PiFace daughter board on.  It works!

    Then I thought.  I wonder if I can put the LCD screen on the Arduino.  It STILL WORKS!!

     

    I stood back and looked at it and discovered that I accidently created a whole system of mashed together platforms that I could build just about anything with all because I was reading this thread about power issues.  Its been running for 2 days now with out a glitch.  Next step will be to build a battery pack that can power the whole lot of it.

     

    I know I didn't help any but I thought it was funny.

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  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 12 years ago in reply to e14 Contributor

    An improvement to the superZener clipper I'd illustrated,would be to substitute a TL431 for the Zener.  We'd need a few resistors, but we could then trim the clipping point.

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  • e14 Contributor
    e14 Contributor over 12 years ago in reply to D_Hersey

    >>> created by Don Hersey in Raspberry Pi

    >

     

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  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 12 years ago

    Another clever idea for a protection circuit:

     

    Simple reverse-polarity-protection circuit has no voltage drop | EDN

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  • DAFlippers
    DAFlippers over 12 years ago in reply to D_Hersey

    The only downside is that reverse power is connected until the relay operates.  I know it is for a very short time but it only takes a short time to do damage.

     

    David

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  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 12 years ago

    Well, let's give that one a think. . .

     

    Now, it may defeat the original purpose, (which is a dubious one in my mind, I don't lose sleep over these little losses in prototype systems) somewhat, but an inrush surge limiter in series w/ da power could clear that up, maybe, at the cost of always having to draw 200mA.  Be a little brutish, but we could throw a backward Shottky diode across our load and hope our relay contacts don't weld before the relay actuates, a fairly safe bet, IMHO, if we are talking wall-wart.  Seems more bulk capacitance across the supply would help by allowing more time in the reverse-case. . .

     

    Frankly, if it is a little CMOS controller, I often just use a linear regulator to drop to my logic potential.  I just tell my self that the intervening diode(s) are helping my drop-out situation.

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  • DAFlippers
    DAFlippers over 12 years ago in reply to D_Hersey

    You could add another relay powered when the supply is correct way round to provide power to load so zero voltage drop but takes a little more current.

     

    David

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  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 12 years ago

    One could use a bistable relay. . .

     

    This seems to get sorta rococo.  This event of getting skunked by the reverse-polarity wall-wart-from-perdition is a rare, although terrible, event.  I'm thinkin' if Qdiss is that bigga deal, how about a series picofuse and a shunt backwards Shottky diode?  We can tape a spare up under the box.

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  • e14 Contributor
    e14 Contributor over 12 years ago in reply to D_Hersey

    Even simpler  ==  Just swap the NO and NC contacts, and turn around all the diodes and LEDs…. DOH

     

    So when power is applied the relay coil energizes only if polarity is correct, then power is passed to load after a delay of a few milliseconds.

     

    No idea what the author was smoking, it’s an old trick and he still managed to get it backwards.  The way he does it, that few milliseconds of reverse polarity is an awful long time in the world of electrons.

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