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3D Printing Forum Having a hard time starting out [Prusa i3] e3D v6 hotend, pla clogging all the time
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Having a hard time starting out [Prusa i3] e3D v6 hotend, pla clogging all the time

Former Member
Former Member over 10 years ago

So I've assembled my first 3D printer out of mostly spare parts and bits..

Got everything setup, at first i used a all metal hotend from china, E3D v6 replica's for 10$

 

image

The beginning of the test cube, 3 different attempts, learning about the settings..

In each case, i stopped the printer early because it was not moving high enough Z axis,

meaning it ended up, grinding around inside the previous layer.

 

Unfortunally it constantly failed, sometimes in the beginning, sometimes mid print. It failed by clogging up,

I thought i'd better get a "decent" hotend, so I puchased a E3D V6 hotend 0.4mm nozzle. and set it all as a bowden setup.

Still fails.

 

image

This is how my printer looks most of the time, me cleaning out clogging. image

 

My main issues

 

1) Hotend clogging up, "way up in the cold part"  as if it's retracting melted plastic upwards.

Result,  nozzle + entire insides of the hotend is clogged up, I'm fairly quick now to remove the clogging, but it does not really help me out.

 

 

2) Z-axis is not raising enough. It' appears 1st layer is printet "into" the glass, meaning 1st layer is invisible, then second layer is barely visible.

My Z-axis is connected via 5mm rods, (M5) to 2x nema 17, 1.8(200) steppers. and used the prusa calculator via google and set the step to 75..

not sure about the 0.8/0.8*1 in the firmware so i left it..

 

 

 

Things I tryed allready,

- Calibrating PID temperature for the hotend.

- Calibrating / leveling the bed to the hotend, allowing only 1 single sheet of paper to fit under it at anylocation at Z-home

- Printing pla with to high temperatures, not a good idea image what a mess.

 

I'm not sure weither it's my Marlin setup, my G-code or whats up, but I'm kinda frustrated right now image

 

This is my typical slic3r settings(hope you can see, not sure about the resolution on the webpage)

image

 

And promterface.. (havent really done anything here, except when i was calibrating the hotend temp for marlin.)

image

 

 

Attached files

 

- Marlin for Ramps 1.4

- 20mmx20mmx20mm test cube

 

 

Any help would be appriciated... 

Attachments:
Marlin.zip
20mm_cube.g.zip
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  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago

    Hey one thing E3d fails to mention in their literature is you need to cool the heat sink with the fan after you are finished printing until the heater block cools off otherwise the heat travels up the heat sink and makes the filament stick to the upper area where it can not be melted easily when you start it up the next time.  Also a good idea to retract the filament while it is above 180 degrees and remove it from the extruder after printing to make it easy to change colors and prevent clogs.

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  • Former Member
    0 Former Member over 10 years ago

    Hey one thing E3d fails to mention in their literature is you need to cool the heat sink with the fan after you are finished printing until the heater block cools off otherwise the heat travels up the heat sink and makes the filament stick to the upper area where it can not be melted easily when you start it up the next time.  Also a good idea to retract the filament while it is above 180 degrees and remove it from the extruder after printing to make it easy to change colors and prevent clogs.

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