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3D Printing Wishlist - What do I need to begin 3D Printing?

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One of the coolest technologies to emerge in the last decade is 3D printing. 3D printers are incredibly versatile tools that can print virtually anything you need. The technology has improved by leaps and bounds since its inception, and incredibly accurate, high resolution 3D prints can now be made pretty inexpensively.

We've put together a wish list with all the fundamental items needed to set you up for a life in 3D Printing

3D Printers

Let's start with the 3D printer itself. There is a wide range to choose from. Select based on what you want to print, your skill level, the materials you want to print with, the size of the prints you want to make, and most importantly, budget. Whether you're printing industrial parts for machine automation or little knick-knacks to decorate your desk, there's a 3D printer for you.

Flashforge Adventurer 3

Flashforge Adventurer 3

 

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Ultimaker S3

Glue Stick

In order to create a great 3D print, build plate adhesion is extremely important. If your print won't stay still, accuracy will suffer. Hairspray is popular for adhesion, but glue is more precise and creates less of a mess.

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Magigoo Glue Stick

Deburring Tool

Many 3D prints end up with small pieces of protruding plastic that have to be cleaned up. A deburring tool makes the process easier, and with less chance of screwing up and destroying your print. Deburring tools are especially good for cleaning up modeled holes.

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Ruko Deburring Tool

Pliers

Pliers are useful on any bench and 3D printing is no exception. Use your pliers for print core maintenance, repairs, or removing support material.

Needle-nose pliers

Flat Nosed Pliers

Masking Tape

Masking tape is incredibly versatile in 3D printing. Add it to the print bed to protect it from scratches and to help 3D prints adhere. Heat resistant masking tape is preferred for heated beds.

Masking Tape

Masking Tape

Dremel

Dremels make smoothing a lot easier, but be careful! A Dremel can get hot, and material like PLA can melt. The sanding attachments work well, but keep those RPMs low.

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Dremel Multitool

Different-sized Nozzles

Grab a vriety of nozzles for your 3D printer. Larger ones can print faster at the expense of resolution. Smaller ones can print with more detail, but are slower.

This example works with Ultimaker 3D printers.

0.4mm

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0.4mm Nozzles

Filament

Don't forget to stock up on filaments in a variety of colors, including the shiny and translucent ones.

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Multicomp Silver PLA Filament

Measuring Tools

Measuring tools are required for checking machine setup and print accuracy. You've probably already got a nice ruler, but adding something like digital calipers will take your accuracy to a new level.

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Digital Calipers

Raspberry Pi to run OctoPrint.

OctoPrint (https://octoprint.org) is software that can control and monitor every aspect of your 3D printer from within a browser. You can do things like viewing a webcam feed of your print, monitor temperatures, or start/stop/pause the current print job. It's completely free. OctoPrint is also open source, and there are already a bunch of plugins from 3rd party developers available for it.

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Raspberry Pi 4 Starter Kit

How to 3D Print Webinar Series

Watch our 4 Part Webinar Series on 3D Printing on demand. We'll take you from your first print to designing prototypes.

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Introduction to 3D Printing

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Create your own 3D Models

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Maintenance and Diagnosing Bad Prints

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First Print Basics

Parents

  • 1) What's the first thing you're going to print and why?

    I would print a flow rate square.  After printing, I would calculate my flow rate and update my Extrusion Multiplier (you should do this for every new spool you get).  Once the update is complete, I would print a Soldering Fume Extractor.

     

    2) What are we missing from this list?  Any special tools/procedures/secrets that you use to get the best 3D prints?

    • I've been printing for ~5 years, things I wish I knew when I was a noob getting started:
      • PLA is best to start with, it is the most forgiving filament. Find a brand you like and stick with it.  Once you are comfortable with it, then move on to other filaments.  Remember PLA is made from plants and reduces the impact on the environment.
      • Bed leveling is very important, my first printer did not have one and I almost gave up on printing.  If the printer you are looking at does not include it, don't buy it as your first or next printer.
      • Another very important feature is a filament runout sensor.  It will save your print and reduce the amount of waited filament and prints.  This should be considered a no-deal option.
      • The first layer is the most important.  If it does not stick when you run your finger across it, you most likely will not have a successful print.  Use live Z adjustment then restart the print.  Verify your printer has this feature.  (FYI, you should not touch the bed when hot and will eventually be able to just look at it and know it will stick)
      • A lot of people use alcohol or acetone to clean the bed.  I've found that NON-acetone fingernail polish remover is awesome for PLA.  I'm not sure why masking tape is recommended if your bed is clean and sticky, maybe this is a cost-saving.  I found Magigoo 3d printing adhesive works well for ABS, ASA, PC, and more (as mentioned in the above article).
      • I recommend getting a kit for your first printer.  This will help you when it comes time to repair it and you will need to at some point.  Keep your assembly tools close as you will need them.
      • A simple first print is a PINDA protector (auto-leveling component).  This will prevent a lot of failed prints by removing hangs on your PINDA due to warping.
      • Don't stress getting a Multi-Material Unit. You can always add it later.
    • Your first major upgrade should be a printing chamber when you are comfortable with PLA.  All the materials I've used introduce warping and a chamber helps prevent it.
    • Using knurled is great for ensuring screws hold. You will need a soldering iron to insert.  Set it to the same temperature as the material temperature.
    • Stringing can be a problem, it could be temperature or moisture in the filament.
      • The first thing to check is you retract settings.  If you are not retracting enough or not wiping while retracting can cause stringing.
      • Next, print a temperature tower, plenty of examples, and sample G-code mods to do this online.
      • If you can't get rid of it, a heat gun or kitchen torch to heat the printed part and remove the stringing.  Caution should be used, do it quickly, don't melt your print.
    • You should always put your filament in a vacuum zip lock to prevent moisture in the filament.  If not, you will end up wasting filament and have poor-looking prints.
    • When creating your models, create multiple components.  This will simplify design and keep your project organized.
    • Learn a good CAD tool, as a hobbyist, you can use Fusion 360 for free.
    • www.thingiverse.com is your friend,  chances are, someone has already built a model you need/like.  Download the STL file.  (FYI, an STL file can be used by your slicer to generate G-code.)
    • Printer settings are important, learn each option and what it does.  Print quality can be reduced to improve speed.
    • The best way to learn is to teach, once you understand a feature, process, or tool, teach it to someone else.  They will ask questions to make you think about what you have learned.

     

    Remember, It's a hobby, treat it as such and enjoy yourself.

     

    Happy printing and good luck to you noobs.

Comment

  • 1) What's the first thing you're going to print and why?

    I would print a flow rate square.  After printing, I would calculate my flow rate and update my Extrusion Multiplier (you should do this for every new spool you get).  Once the update is complete, I would print a Soldering Fume Extractor.

     

    2) What are we missing from this list?  Any special tools/procedures/secrets that you use to get the best 3D prints?

    • I've been printing for ~5 years, things I wish I knew when I was a noob getting started:
      • PLA is best to start with, it is the most forgiving filament. Find a brand you like and stick with it.  Once you are comfortable with it, then move on to other filaments.  Remember PLA is made from plants and reduces the impact on the environment.
      • Bed leveling is very important, my first printer did not have one and I almost gave up on printing.  If the printer you are looking at does not include it, don't buy it as your first or next printer.
      • Another very important feature is a filament runout sensor.  It will save your print and reduce the amount of waited filament and prints.  This should be considered a no-deal option.
      • The first layer is the most important.  If it does not stick when you run your finger across it, you most likely will not have a successful print.  Use live Z adjustment then restart the print.  Verify your printer has this feature.  (FYI, you should not touch the bed when hot and will eventually be able to just look at it and know it will stick)
      • A lot of people use alcohol or acetone to clean the bed.  I've found that NON-acetone fingernail polish remover is awesome for PLA.  I'm not sure why masking tape is recommended if your bed is clean and sticky, maybe this is a cost-saving.  I found Magigoo 3d printing adhesive works well for ABS, ASA, PC, and more (as mentioned in the above article).
      • I recommend getting a kit for your first printer.  This will help you when it comes time to repair it and you will need to at some point.  Keep your assembly tools close as you will need them.
      • A simple first print is a PINDA protector (auto-leveling component).  This will prevent a lot of failed prints by removing hangs on your PINDA due to warping.
      • Don't stress getting a Multi-Material Unit. You can always add it later.
    • Your first major upgrade should be a printing chamber when you are comfortable with PLA.  All the materials I've used introduce warping and a chamber helps prevent it.
    • Using knurled is great for ensuring screws hold. You will need a soldering iron to insert.  Set it to the same temperature as the material temperature.
    • Stringing can be a problem, it could be temperature or moisture in the filament.
      • The first thing to check is you retract settings.  If you are not retracting enough or not wiping while retracting can cause stringing.
      • Next, print a temperature tower, plenty of examples, and sample G-code mods to do this online.
      • If you can't get rid of it, a heat gun or kitchen torch to heat the printed part and remove the stringing.  Caution should be used, do it quickly, don't melt your print.
    • You should always put your filament in a vacuum zip lock to prevent moisture in the filament.  If not, you will end up wasting filament and have poor-looking prints.
    • When creating your models, create multiple components.  This will simplify design and keep your project organized.
    • Learn a good CAD tool, as a hobbyist, you can use Fusion 360 for free.
    • www.thingiverse.com is your friend,  chances are, someone has already built a model you need/like.  Download the STL file.  (FYI, an STL file can be used by your slicer to generate G-code.)
    • Printer settings are important, learn each option and what it does.  Print quality can be reduced to improve speed.
    • The best way to learn is to teach, once you understand a feature, process, or tool, teach it to someone else.  They will ask questions to make you think about what you have learned.

     

    Remember, It's a hobby, treat it as such and enjoy yourself.

     

    Happy printing and good luck to you noobs.

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