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Ask an Expert Forum Voltage Doubler Circuit to light a LED with a single AAA battery
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  • voltage doubler
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Voltage Doubler Circuit to light a LED with a single AAA battery

fmilburn
fmilburn over 6 years ago

I told myself this morning if I did not have this solved by tonight myself I would post it on element14  :-) as a Holiday puzzle.  It seems simple enough....

 

The school my grandson goes to gives out little awards from time to time and he recently selected a "spy kit" as his reward.  Inside was a little flashlight / torch that wasn't working.  Since all spies need a miniature flashlight he asked me to see if I could fix it.  It turned out that it wasn't getting good contact on the positive terminal and was fairly easily fixed.  This is what it looks like working:

image

While I had it apart I couldn't help examining it closer.  This is the (very cheap and poorly assembled) PCB.

image

A single AAA battery powers it.  Negative is the red wire and positive is the bare wire coming up between the legs of the LED.  The datasheets for the two SOT-23 transistors (J3Y and 2TY) are online and the two resistors and inductor are marked.  I removed the capacitor and measured 0.5 nF.  Using a multimeter and following the traces in the photo above I came up with this for the schematic.

image

 

This is what the output to the LED looks like on the oscilloscope:

image

Voltage is doubled from 1.5V input to ~3V peak to peak output and is a rough square wave with duty of 24% on and 76% off.  Frequency is 215 kHZ.  I powered it with the bench supply to see how it behaved as the voltage was lowered and it continued to put out reduced light down to 0.7V input without problem.

 

I tried simulating the schematic above but only get 1.5V DC output.  I may have missed something when tracing the circuit but if so I missed it again when rechecking.  Or I may not be simulating it correctly / have wrong values somehow.

 

Having failed to convince myself I understand how it works I have decided to post it here and see what the experts say...

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  • Gough Lui
    Gough Lui over 6 years ago +6 suggested
    fmilburn - it's a known issue with the site that the images on the first post can't be seen by other members (myself included) due to permissions issues. If you can edit your post by making a trivial change…
  • 14rhb
    14rhb over 6 years ago +6 verified
    Hi Frank, I can see the diagrams OK. It strikes me as a bit strange that TR2 shorts the PSU - are you sure there isn't a connection between the anode of the LED (and inductor/cap) and the collector of…
  • geralds
    geralds over 6 years ago in reply to fmilburn +6 suggested
    Please can you post the second side of the PCB? Than we can better follow the circuit. So I think something is different as you've drawn. Also the value of the cap. may not 500pF, I think it's a bit larger…
  • gecoz
    0 gecoz over 6 years ago

    Hi Frank,

     

    I don't know if it is a problem at my end, but I cannot see any of the photos you published. I thought to mention it, since lately there have been quite a few problems with images on the site.

     

    Fabio

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  • Gough Lui
    0 Gough Lui over 6 years ago

    fmilburn - it's a known issue with the site that the images on the first post can't be seen by other members (myself included) due to permissions issues. If you can edit your post by making a trivial change (e.g. adding an extra "." at the end), then the images will show for all of us.

     

    - Gough

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  • jc2048
    0 jc2048 over 6 years ago

    I can't see the pictures either.

     

    From the words, it sounds like it might be a boost converter (a variation of the garden light things). If so, it isn't a doubler as such, the 3V comes from the forward voltage of the LED and just happens to be twice the voltage of the new battery. The two transistors will be an oscillator of some description and the inductor does the voltage boost.

     

    There's quite a large class of oscillators that can't start up of their own accord from a static situation [the dc analysis that the simulator does at the start] and need some help to get going (in the real circuit, that help can consist of things like merely the supply coming up or sometimes a small amount of random noise at the right frequency). If that's what's happening here, you'd need to try giving it a (virtual) kick. Depending on the simulator, you may be able to set an initial condition somewhere in the oscillator that will bias it (wrongly) at the start and encourage it to fall into oscillation (Tina-TI has a little circle symbol with 'IC' on it for the purpose), or you could maybe use a generator to give a short pulse just after starting and feed it into the circuit somehow (though that will probably change the form of the oscillation through loading). Another possibility that works for some oscillators is simply to make the supply a generator so that the supply can appear (as a step up from zero) after the simulation start time.

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  • fmilburn
    0 fmilburn over 6 years ago

    OK, thanks for letting me know about the photos - first time that has happened to me. Hopefully it is visible now. 

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  • gecoz
    0 gecoz over 6 years ago in reply to fmilburn

    All good now.

    Fabio

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  • fmilburn
    0 fmilburn over 6 years ago in reply to jc2048

    Hi Jon,

    I did a search on e14 and found your post on the garden solar light from a while back and noted it has an IC.  I figured my circuit was just an oscillator with the inductor storing energy.  I am using TINA and will try your suggestion.

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  • 14rhb
    0 14rhb over 6 years ago

    Hi Frank,

     

    I can see the diagrams OK.

     

    It strikes me as a bit strange that TR2 shorts the PSU - are you sure there isn't a connection between the anode of the LED (and inductor/cap) and the collector of TR2 ? It would make more sense if there was.

     

    Rod

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  • gecoz
    0 gecoz over 6 years ago

    Hi Frank,

     

    I think Jon guess is spot on.

     

    Looking at the PCB, it looks like is basically a 2 stage amplifier, made with 2 common-emitter stages, in a positive feedback configuration, which creates an oscillator.

    The positive feedback loop is created by C1. I believe your schematic has C1 wrongly positioned: from the PCB picture I would say C1 goes from the collector of the NPN transistor to the base of the PNP one, and so closing the feedback loop.

    Also, I think one end of L1 is connected to the positive supply and the emitter of the PNP, but the other end should be connected to the collector of the NPN and one end of C1. The led is then connected between the collector of the NPN and ground.

     

    Fabio

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  • fmilburn
    0 fmilburn over 6 years ago in reply to 14rhb

    Now that you have pointed it out it makes more sense to me also (I still have not developed an intuition for what is happening in these type circuits).  I was fooled by using the beeper on the multimeter and of course getting no resistance across the inductor with DC.  I revised the model as shown below:

    image

    The model output is shown below:

    image

    It differs from the observation on the oscilloscope (Voltage only 2V, duty is different, etc.) but I presume that I am now on the right track?

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  • fmilburn
    0 fmilburn over 6 years ago in reply to gecoz

    Hi Fabio,

     

    Did I catch it all in the revised schematic above?

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