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  • Author Author: shabaz
  • Date Created: 7 Nov 2016 6:03 PM Date Created
  • Views 8162 views
  • Likes 14 likes
  • Comments 28 comments
  • pick-and-place
  • valve
  • surface mount technology
  • reflow
  • pick and place
  • vacuum_tweezer
  • freescale
  • smd
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  • reflow_soldering
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  • tweezers
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Building a SMT Pick-and-Place Buddy

shabaz
shabaz
7 Nov 2016

Introduction

For years I’ve used a normal pair of tweezers to pick up small parts. It works fine but in the quest for further improvements I looked to buy a vacuum pick-up (also known as vacuum tweezer) tool to assist in this process but I didn’t see anything suitable. Some were low-cost, others were expensive. At reasonable cost I could not find an appropriate tool with the features I wanted.

 

I could have stayed with the manual tweezers but deep down all of us as engineers want to continue to optimize and in that spirit it was decided to build a custom solution and have some computer integration functionality too. Check out the 10-minute video here for more detail (first 4 minutes are the technical stuff, then a demo of it in action followed by an assembly video).

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The end result is useful for picking-and-placing small surface mount technology (SMT) components but could also have uses in other industries such as jewellery making (for picking up small stones/beads).

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This blog post documents the steps in the hope that others find it useful too.

 

What are the requirements?

For usefulness the tool needs to be able to consistently and accurately pick and place parts otherwise it is less useful than tweezers. It must be at least as consistent and accurate as tweezers and must improve the user’s pick and place speed by a significant margin compared to normal manual tweezers to make it worthwhile to construct this project.

 

Increased throughput (i.e. to pick and place a certain number of components within a shorter time) will be achieved through several features I’d not seen on commercial vacuum tweezer tools. I’ve only started using this project and time will tell if the features are useful or not.

 

Another requirement was that the tool must be reasonably reliable and not break down often or at least be based on low cost and easy-to-replace parts (such as a replacement tip if the original one falls off and is lost).

 

Although the tool needs to be cost-effective compared to commercial off-the-shelf vacuum tweezers, there has to be a balance of reliability/maintainability and features and it would be nice to use this tool for commercial prototyping as well as hobbyist use.

 

The Design

The mechanical aspects of the design involved a bit of experimentation but the final result is repeatable using easily obtainable parts. Some vacuum tweezer systems rely on a compressed air source but I didn’t have this so for now this project uses a built-in electric pump from ebay (it remains to be seen if it is a reliable component but it can be swapped out at a later stage if it turns out that additional reliability is needed in this area).

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The pump has two ports, one for suction (vacuum) and the other for blowing. Such pumps are likely also used for aerating small fish tanks so that could be an option too although I didn’t open one to confirm. Both the suction and blowing ports are used in this project. Diaphragm pumps make a noise but could be placed under the desk (with a remote LCD screen) if it got irritating at ear level. Some attempts were made to minimise vibration being transmitted in the mounting of the pump, and the sound was significantly reduced but more could be done in this area. It makes far less noise than my hot air tool but this tool needs to be used for hours on end. The noise is diminished immensely by placing it on a rug, so I need to spend more time investigating pump mounting methods.

 

If two users sitting nearby required vacuum tweezers (i.e. to assemble PCBs simultaneously) then the cost and the overall noise level can be further reduced by using a ‘double head’ pump rather than constructing two units. I went with a single head pump for now but the project could be extended into a double unit if later desired.

 

To control the air flow a valve was used; this has three ports and much like a single pole double throw (SPDT) switch the valve will connect one of two tubing connections to a third connection under control of an electrical signal. The particular valve used will block the first tubing connection when the valve is activated.

 

In theory this sounds straightforward but in practice the blowing port on the pump won’t have any air flow when the vacuum port is blocked. For the vacuum pen attachment, we want to be able to switch from ‘suck’ to ‘blow’. A sustained blow operation is unwanted, since that would blow away the components. Instead what was tried was a short controlled burst of air. To achieve that, a small reservoir was constructed which gets pumped up (i.e. increasing pressure) during the component picking vacuum (suck) cycle. It was named Mr. Sneeze. When the valve switches to blow mode, the pressure built up in Mr. Sneeze is used to eject the component from the end of the vacuum tweezers.

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Without doing calculations I resorted to trial-and-error to establish the reservoir size. I accidentally over-sized it (by about 500%!) by using the nearest container at hand (an aluminium can with airtight screw-cap) which was about the size of a C sized battery and so I then filled the inside with a piece of wood dowel (painted in PVA to prevent wood fibre getting inside the pneumatics) to resize to an appropriate reservoir air volume; this was easier than scrapping it and finding a smaller container. If I was building it again I would just use a smaller container.

 

To control the pressure a regulator is used. Even without the regulator anything bad is unlikely to happen (the low cost pump will probably leak and the tubing will pop off if there was any extreme pressure build-up) but the regulator is inexpensive to add and provides more control over the behaviour when releasing components from the vacuum.

 

A home-made filter could be added into the design although I didn’t do this for the prototype; it could be wise to have some thin filter material before the vacuum tweezer connection port in case any dirt or tiny components get sucked into the tubing!

 

To operate the valve a foot-switch is used. The switch is wired to a FRDM-KL25ZFRDM-KL25Z board so the microcontroller has ultimate control The  FRDM-KL25ZFRDM-KL25Z has an on-board USB interface Software was written so that whenever the switch is double or triple pressed a message is sent over the USB interface(the  FRDM-KL25ZFRDM-KL25Z looks like a USB UART to the connected PC

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When a double- or triple-press message event occurs, appropriate PC software will then send the ASCII encoded text to display on the on-board LCD. The reason for this is to increase user efficiency; the conveniently-placed LCD display can be used to indicate the component reference and value for the next part that needs to be picked and placed. Once the part has been placed the user can perform a double-press on the foot-switch to advance the display onto the next component that needs to be placed.

 

The idea could be extended even further to automatically highlight where on the board the next component needs to go (perhaps display it on the computer screen). It would be nice to see an EAGLE user language program (ULP) for this.

 

If the user makes an error the display could be reverted with a triple-press. There are also buttons on the unit that could be optionally used.

 

The vacuum tweezer end of the design was based around easy-to-obtain syringe dispensing tips (nozzles). They come in different colour-coded diameters. The brown one is perfect for 0603 sized parts and larger, but the yellow one is great with 0402 and 0603 parts and even some ICs. The yellow one will therefore be used the most. The tips can be swapped out quickly because they are twist-on/twist-off.

 

Vacuum Pen Assembly

To make the vacuum pen a plastic bottle intended for eyeliner was used. I liked it because it has two flattened sides so that if the handle is placed down and then subsequently picked up, it can very quickly be held in the same exact orientation as before, which is critical when the dispensing tip has been bent at an angle in the desire for good ergonomics. The brush end was removed with pliers and the stem was found to be hollow so all that was required was to chop the end off for the tubing to pass through. Throughout the design of this project thin 4mm tubing was used (2.5mm inside diameter).

image

 

Another benefit of the plastic bottle method is that there can be lots of room so it would be quite easy in a future upgrade to build a version with a white LED inside it (and run thin wires inside the tubing) to supply illumination. It was considered a nice-to-have feature but not essential to this first vacuum pen prototype.

 

An alternative approach to creating a vacuum pen could be to 3D-print it based on any custom design.

 

As mentioned the nozzle part of the design was based around syringe dispensing tips with a standard fitting known as a Luer fit. A Luer connector adapter was used to connect the tubing (it is a push-fit into the tubing). One end takes the tubing, and the other end allows for a Luer-compatible dispensing tip to twist on.

 

Front Panel

The front panel has the display and a few buttons. They were mounted such that they could be easily unscrewed for adjustments/repositioning. A tubing coupler was also fitted so that the vacuum tweezer pen assembly can be disconnected easily.

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Rear Panel

The rear panel hosts the connection to the foot switch and the adjustment screw for the pressure regulator. During first use the regulator is adjusted until the components can be easily released without flying off, and then the locking screw is used to fix the setting.

image

 

When assembled the micro-USB interfaces from the FRDM board are accessible from the rear panel.

image

 

Foot Switch

This was an off-the-shelf part; it internally contains just a microswitch. It was wired to a RJ45 network cable because they are low cost. I used pins 1 and 2, wired to the normally-open connections of the internal microswitch.

 

Building the Pneumatics

The three main components, the pump, the valve and Mr. Sneeze are screwed down to the base. For the pump, some thin foam pads were used and they helped reduce the sound. Rubber feet on the underside of the case helped too.

image

 

Building the circuit

As mentioned earlier the heart of the control system is the FRDM board. Using such an off-the-shelf board simplifies the construction. The remainder circuitry was fitted onto a small shield PCB and mounted with long spacers above Mr. Sneeze to pack everything into the case easily.

 

For a bit of noise immunity, the design uses an optocoupler as part of the interface circuitry to the foot switch. This isn’t mandatory but I had the part and and it was convenient to use in the design.

 

There is also a bit of flexibility in the circuit to cater for different voltage pumps and valves to allow experimentation. The valve uses less power than the pump so I chose to use a DC-DC converter (marked U3 in the schematic) to power the valve if the voltage to the pump is lower than the valve requires. If you know precisely which pump you wish to use then the DC-DC converter is not needed (it can be replaced with a wire link) and the valve can be chosen to match the voltage of the pump.

image

 

Summary

The vacuum tweezer system described here uses easy-to-obtain parts and the overall design is maintainable and adjustable because all major components are removable including the vacuum tweezer nozzle. The design has some features aimed to improve component pick-and-place speed.

 

It remains to be seen how reliable it is, but over intermittent tests it seems to work really well, I’ve been pleasantly surprised. I’m still practicing how to use it most effectively. I also have a quieter pump now so I’ll try to swap that in sometime too, although the existing one doesn't sound so bad currently; I may change my mind after a few hundred components placed : )

 

Next Steps / Ideas for Improvements

I plan to write additional software to help port bill of material (BoM) content from popular CAD packages (primarily just EAGLE for now) into the device.

 

If I was designing a new revision of this project, I would also add a small speaker that could be used to provide an audible alert under software control.

 

Another thing that could be done to improve the design would be to fit a small white LED to the end of the tweezers (there is room) and to use one of the LED wires as an earth connection touching the metal part of the nozzle to eliminate any potential risk of static build-up (I believe the risk is low since the flow rate is so low). For now, one could just periodically touch the metal nozzle to achieve this (a short beep as a reminder could be implemented).

 

If there is interest, I’ll create a parts list and PCB file for this project since it would be nice to collaborate with others on improvements to this project.

image

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Top Comments

  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to gihu +5
    Hi gihu! Thanks for the feedback and kind offer! I'm hoping people replicate it and explore it to see what can be done, but for even those that don't, it would be good to hear about the things that slow…
  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 8 years ago in reply to shabaz +5
    Here is another idea for pump mounts that I have seen used that is quite effective: The pump's vibration is absorbed in the soft material of the gum rubber and dissipates with very little vibration being…
  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 8 years ago +4
    Hi Shabaz, This is a beautiful project and well thought out. I particularly thought that Mr. Sneeze was an excellent solution to quickly equalize the negative pressure in your handpiece line. In some dental…
Parents
  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 8 years ago

    Ever since Shabaz built this awesome project I have been thinking of how I could build a simpler but functional unit that would suit my own needs. Today I finally got the parts together and patched together my first crude prototype. I began with a small 3 way push button pneumatic valve. I have put a 1/2 watt resistor in the picture for size comparison. The valve connects the center port with the port on the right end when the button is not pushed and connects the center port to the port on the left when the button is pushed. My approach to using this valve will be to use a fairly high vacuum on the left most port. The vacuum tweezers tip will be attached to the center port. The port on the right will be left open to the ambient air pressure. We will minimize the length and diameter of the hose that goes to the tip so that the volume of space that is under vacuum will be minimal as well. The tip is made from a copper pipe that is used in a refrigeration unit to produce back pressure so it too has a very small diameter. This will allow air pressure to quickly neutralize the vacuum when the push button valve is released.

     

    image

     

    For a gun I have found an old dental fiber optic cure light and removed the guts. Here is a before and after picture:

     

    image

     

    image

     

    Here is a picture of the components assembled in a half shell of the gun. The tip has been temporarily mounted through corks as I wanted to be able to pivot it from side to side. The routing of the hose is from the tip to the center barb of the valve and then from the top barb of the valve to the externally supplied vacuum. I am using the same external vacuum pump for this project that I made out of an old dehumidifier and which I also use for the desoldering station. It is quiet like a refrigerator and yet produces 630 mm of Hg vacuum level.

     

    image

     

    Here is a picture of the assembled gun.

     

    image

     

    I have made a short video of this vacuum tweezers in action.

     

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    The battery that I picked up is an LR44 and weighs 2 grams. The other pieces were surface mount caps. Now that I have the vacuum part working I will see if I can install a fiber optic light. This should not be too much trouble as there are many variations used in the dental trade to illuminate the dental drills that are used in patient's mouths. When I have a finished unit I will post information on what I did and a short video.

     

    Thanks again to shabaz for his continuing inspiration to all of us.

     

    John

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 8 years ago

    Ever since Shabaz built this awesome project I have been thinking of how I could build a simpler but functional unit that would suit my own needs. Today I finally got the parts together and patched together my first crude prototype. I began with a small 3 way push button pneumatic valve. I have put a 1/2 watt resistor in the picture for size comparison. The valve connects the center port with the port on the right end when the button is not pushed and connects the center port to the port on the left when the button is pushed. My approach to using this valve will be to use a fairly high vacuum on the left most port. The vacuum tweezers tip will be attached to the center port. The port on the right will be left open to the ambient air pressure. We will minimize the length and diameter of the hose that goes to the tip so that the volume of space that is under vacuum will be minimal as well. The tip is made from a copper pipe that is used in a refrigeration unit to produce back pressure so it too has a very small diameter. This will allow air pressure to quickly neutralize the vacuum when the push button valve is released.

     

    image

     

    For a gun I have found an old dental fiber optic cure light and removed the guts. Here is a before and after picture:

     

    image

     

    image

     

    Here is a picture of the components assembled in a half shell of the gun. The tip has been temporarily mounted through corks as I wanted to be able to pivot it from side to side. The routing of the hose is from the tip to the center barb of the valve and then from the top barb of the valve to the externally supplied vacuum. I am using the same external vacuum pump for this project that I made out of an old dehumidifier and which I also use for the desoldering station. It is quiet like a refrigerator and yet produces 630 mm of Hg vacuum level.

     

    image

     

    Here is a picture of the assembled gun.

     

    image

     

    I have made a short video of this vacuum tweezers in action.

     

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    The battery that I picked up is an LR44 and weighs 2 grams. The other pieces were surface mount caps. Now that I have the vacuum part working I will see if I can install a fiber optic light. This should not be too much trouble as there are many variations used in the dental trade to illuminate the dental drills that are used in patient's mouths. When I have a finished unit I will post information on what I did and a short video.

     

    Thanks again to shabaz for his continuing inspiration to all of us.

     

    John

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to jw0752

    Hi John,

    That's a nice tool! Very neat how it could work with any vacuum source since the entire design is integrated in the handpiece.

    Also the valve right in the handpiece simplifies things a lot, since there is less volume to pressure-normalize when releasing the part.

    Also, it means there is no issue with the length of the tubing to the vacuum source. For my version, I used perhaps just under 1m of

    tubing to the handpiece, but if I changed that (i.e. swapped out to another handpiece with different length tubing attached),

    then I would need to trim the regulator setting probably.

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 8 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Hi shabaz

     

    With your permission I will hijack your blog one more time to show you my improvements. I went to a seminar the other day and part of the hand out included a nifty pen with an LED light on one end. As soon as I saw it I decided to make off with three of them and to salvage the LED's for use on the Vacuum Tweezers.

     

    image

     

    After I salvaged the LEDs I made a bracket and mounted them. It was nice that they each came with a Black insulator base that made mounting them much easier.

     

    image

    I used the copper vacuum pipe for a common and routed the positive wire through the case. I left enough slack so that the tip can be rotated in the gun. Inside the gun I mounted two push buttons. Actually the gun came with a momentary button and I just added a SPST push button. The idea is to have one button for when I just want to temporarily look at something and also to have the latching button when I want to turn the LEDs on and leave them on. A bit of experimenting showed that the bulbs worked optimally at 20 mA current each. I check in my DC to DC converter box and found a small CC converter that I bought from a China supplier a while back for $4.00. I powered the DC - DC converter with an old 12 volt wall wart and set the CC of the converter to 60 mA. Here is what the converter looks like.

     

    image

     

    Since this tool will be only occasionally used I put plugs on the cord and mounted jacks to the shelving bracket. The vacuum pump I am using serves both the vacuum tweezers and the desoldering station so I put an auxiliary power switch on the system so I do not have to run the desoldering station to use the tweezers. When ever the compressor is turned on the LED power supply also powers up. This will be a very practical tool for me and like so many of my tools it will be an orphan as the gun casing I used is the only one I had. I made a final short video showing how the LEDs work.

     

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    Thanks to friend shabaz for the idea, the inspiration, and the use of his blog space.

     

    John

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  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 8 years ago in reply to jw0752

    Nice and neat, jw0752.

     

    for the leds, if they don't each have a series resistor, t may be good to have them in series with 20 mA current. Parallel with 60 mA may result in termal runaway. This doesn't apply iif each led has a resistor for itself.

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 8 years ago in reply to jw0752

    Hi John,

     

    An excellent addition! The light will helps loads I think. Nice combined electrical/air tubing there too.

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 8 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    Hi Jan,

    I checked each LED for balance, each had about 23 mA at 3.3 volts, but you are 100% correct in suggesting an appropriate series resistor for each. It will be quite easy to modify to boot. I will have to turn the Max voltage on the small CC converter up a bit to compensate for the voltage drop of the resistor but this is easy. Thanks again for keeping me on the best path.

     

    John

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