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Forum Reviving an oxidized tip
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Related

Reviving an oxidized tip

neuromodulator
neuromodulator over 2 years ago

I recently forgot to turn off the soldering station and ended up leaving it on on at 380 °C for around 12 hours. The tip ended up very oxidized and unable to get tin to stick to it. I looked for information on how to "revive" the tip and found a video about it from Androkavo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JADI1N-K9Yc. I tried everything shown there except the sandpaper, the steel wool, the knife and the tip tinner. After a lot of effort, I managed to get a bit of the surface with a more silvery look, but It still could not get solder to stick to the tip. As a last resource I decided to try electrolysis, which I know is quite effective in removing rust, but I was not able to find any info on how good or bad of an idea is to do it with a soldering tip. I left the tip submerged into a beaker with tap water and electrolyzed it for around 5 minutes. After removing it from the bath its color barely changed, so I didn't expect much, but when I tried to put solder into it, tin began to stick into it.

It is unclear to me whether electrolysis caused any damage to the soldering tip, so I do not recommend using this method unless you are willing to take the risk or have more knowledge about chemistry than I do.

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Top Replies

  • kkazem
    kkazem over 2 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps +7
    The stuff in the round can at the bottom was also called "tip tinner" and was sold by many brands. If the tip's melted solder stops flowing evenly on it or if there are places on the tip where molten solder…
  • baldengineer
    baldengineer over 2 years ago +4
    Quality solder tips are plated with chrome (over the iron plating over the copper core.) My understanding is that electrolysis is an effective way to remove chrome from a surface! So while you may…
  • Gough Lui
    Gough Lui over 2 years ago +3
    I generally never let the tip get bad enough that it would lose enough of its tinned area that it couldn't function well enough as a soldering iron, although I did get close. In my early days, I would…
Parents
  • shabaz
    shabaz over 2 years ago

    I don't know how to fix this, but curious what you try, since I have a rust issue to deal with too (got some rust on a flat surface in the shed, because I forgot to oil it this winter : ( I've wiped off a lot just scrubbing with an oiled cloth (and also tried with isopropanol), but there's still a faint layer of oxidization on some parts of it, and I need it as completely flush and clean as possible (no sanding, the surface is machined to be flat, and I want to keep it that way!).

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  • baldengineer
    baldengineer over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Do you have access to DeoxIT?

    Their claim is that the compound can break up the oxidation's bond to the pure metal and separate them. (I'm not sure how to prove or disprove that.)

    That sounds like what you're trying to do.

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 2 years ago in reply to baldengineer

    I'm not familiar with that, but it sounds like WD40. I will search for a can, I'm sure I have that somewhere!

    Incidently there's a rust article on https://www.practicalmachinist.com/forum/threads/how-to-remove-rust-from-machined-surfaces.382907/

    (I've used that site a few times, it is a great website for metal related tips). They mention using a razor blade as a possible viable option too.

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  • fmilburn
    fmilburn over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Hi Shabaz - in the link you provided one of the suggestions was Scotch-Brite pads and WD-40. I’ve used that combination successfully in the past on the lightly rusted machined cast iron surfaces of a table saw and jointer. There was no scratching  (and I wouldn’t expect it) but I’m not sure what it would do to a polished steel surface if that is what you have. 

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  • fmilburn
    fmilburn over 2 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Hi Shabaz - in the link you provided one of the suggestions was Scotch-Brite pads and WD-40. I’ve used that combination successfully in the past on the lightly rusted machined cast iron surfaces of a table saw and jointer. There was no scratching  (and I wouldn’t expect it) but I’m not sure what it would do to a polished steel surface if that is what you have. 

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