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Member's Forum Help with noise measurement and stability of regulator
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Related

Help with noise measurement and stability of regulator

Andrew J
Andrew J over 4 years ago

I'm looking for some help with resolving a noise and what I believe is stability problem of a -5V LDO regulator.  Here is the circuit:

image

and in case it's useful, the relevant part of the PCB:

image

 

The circuit section I'm having difficulty with is the top right (yellow ICs).  I have a 285Ohm resistor soldered across terminals of TP9 and it draws 17.5mA.  R22 and C34 are not populated.

 

The TC7662TC7662 DC-DC charge pump, is fed from a regulated 12V and outputs -11.8V to feed into a -5V LDO regulatorMC7905CDMC7905CD which is outputting -5.011V.

 

When I take measurements (AC coupled, BW 20MHz, 1xprobe with the pigtail rather than flying lead) of the charge pump output (at TP12) and -5V output (at TP9) I get:

image

CH3: Charge Pump output with HF reject on (matches what is expected in the datasheet).  I was expecting that the frequency of the output would be 35kHZ due to way I have pins 1 and 8 connected together.

 

image

CH4: -5 LDO output with LF reject on.

 

I think the LDO output looks like it is oscillating.  Looking at the circuit the input capacitor, C18, is too small and should be a 0.33uF tantalum for stability, according to the datasheet but I have used a 0.33 ceramic capacitor as I don't have any useable tantalums and my thinking was the ceramic should have a low ESR.  I've actually tried with 22uF and then a 68uF electrolytic capacitors, in parallel, but both have zero effect on the LDO output which remains steadfastly at 1.32V.  I've tried the circuit on a breadboard but unfortunately I only have a TI LM7905 - this seems to work ok even with the original capacitor value and doesn't oscillate.  I think the TI part behaves differently so it's not a great comparison.  Its output is slightly improved with a 22uF input capacitor.

 

I really thought that adding an electrolytic capacitor at the input would help (the ESR of the 22uF was around 2.2Ohm) but it makes no difference at all.  I'm out of ideas short of "it really needs a tantalum capacitor on the input", so I'm putting this out there to see if anyone can give me pointers or things to try.

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 4 years ago +3
    Hi Andrew, For the fun of it I decided to see if I could duplicate your problem. I fed a small adjustable DC switch mode converter with 15 volts from my power supply and regulated it down to 10 Volts.…
  • jc2048
    jc2048 over 4 years ago in reply to Andrew J +2
    I'm a bit late to this party, but this might be of interest. This is what Bob Pease [a National Semicondutor designer] wrote back in the early nineties. Sounds like the negative regulators were much more…
  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 4 years ago +1
    I couldn't find any reference to it in data sheets but it may be that the 7905 does not like the 1uF ceramic output cap. Lots of older design monolithic regulators need some esr in the output cap to work…
  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 4 years ago

    I couldn't find any reference to it in data sheets but it may be that the 7905 does not like the 1uF ceramic output cap. Lots of older design monolithic regulators need some esr in the output cap to work.  Try a 10uF aluminium electrolytic output cap instead of the 1uF ceramic.

     

    MK

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 4 years ago in reply to michaelkellett

    Thanks Michael.  I tried with a 22uF on the output but in parallel with the 1uF and further from the regulator (no effect). I’ll remove the 1uF and solder in a 10uF in the morning and see how that goes. 

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 4 years ago

    Hi Andrew,

     

    image

    According to note 2 in the data sheet the Tantalum Cap is important and at least a 10 X value of Electrolytic is needed to substitute. Also if the pig tail on your scope is earth grounded this may have some effect if you are using it to tie to the -5 volt rail.

     

    John

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 4 years ago

    Hi Andrew,

     

    For the fun of it I decided to see if I could duplicate your problem. I fed a small adjustable DC switch mode converter with 15 volts from my power supply and regulated it down to 10 Volts. This was to simulate your switch mode chip on your board. I then fed the 10 volts from the convertor to a standard 7905 linear regulator. I also loaded the circuit with a 270 Ohm resistor. The regulator data sheet called for a 2.2 uF Tantalum on the input and a 1 uF Tantalum on the output. Here is my set up:

     

    image

     

    When I set up the regulator with only the input capacitor installed I found that there was a quite large 848 millivolt PP 3 MHz ripple on the -5V output of the 7905. The polarity of my oscilloscope probes did not matter.

     

    imageimage

     

    As soon as I put a 1 uF Tantalum capacitor between the image5 volt output and the ground the ripple totally disappeared.

     

    imageimage

     

    Your problem may be as simple as using the correct capacitor on the output of the 7905. Unfortunately in my case the Tantalum was not a magic bullet. A 1 uF electrolytic did just as well at eliminating the oscillation. Let me know if you want me to try any other permutations.

     

    John

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 4 years ago in reply to jw0752

    Thanks John, that's really helpful.  I tried a similar setup on a breadboard but could only use a TI LM7905 which seemed to have different behaviour as it worked with a 1uF ceramic as well as a 10uF and 22uF electrolytic.

     

    michaelkellett you were right about the output capacitor and the problem lied with me leaving the 1uF ceramic in place and using a 10uF/22uF after that.  Removing the 1uF and tieing a 10uF electrolytic across the output and gnd terminals stabilised it:

     

    image

    I now have a <4mV ripple on the output which corresponds to the ripple from the charge pump output.

     

    Thanks both for your help.  That's something else I've learned about these regulators.

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 4 years ago

    Could I ask you guys a follow up question.

     

    Given a choice between an input/ouput capacitor of tantalum or electrolytic, which would be preferable?  I have a feeling it may be down

     

    I have stability and good noise management with an input cap 22uF electrolytic and output cap 10uF electrolytic.  The 22uF caps I have used have low ESR - I measured one that I have to hand at 0.6Ohms @ 100kHz so they're all likely to be of that order, including the one in-circuit.

    The datasheet has this to say (I couldn't find the references you made in the datasheet, John jw0752)

     

    In many low current applications, compensation capacitors are not required. However, it is recommended that the regulator input be bypassed with a capacitor if the regulator is connected to the power supply filter with long wire lengths, or if the output load capacitance is large. An input bypass capacitor should be selected to provide good high−frequency characteristics to insure stable operation under all load conditions. A 0.33 uF or larger tantalum, mylar, or other capacitor having low internal impedance at high frequencies should be chosen. The capacitor chosen should have an equivalent series resistance of less than 0.7 Ohms

     

    If I look for 0.33uF tantalum caps, I can't find any with that low an ESR, most are in the 20s Ohms (actually, I've found one with an ESR of 6 Ohms).  "High-frequency" is a rather relative phrase as well!  Part of the reason for asking is curiosity - I've read somewhere that each capacitor material is more suitable for different frequencies and I've seen plenty of attenuation charts that show this.  One answer could be "don't worry about it if your electrolytics work" but I was thinking of re-working the PCB and providing space for these caps.  The pads for typical tantalum cases are different to pads for electrolytics (SMD rather than TH.)

     

    Thanks

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 4 years ago in reply to Andrew J

    Hi Andrew,

     

    I am not sure if it was a typo but the highlighted section refers to a 0.33 mF cap which is a 330 uF cap and you are talking about a 0.33 uF cap in your comments.

     

    The Data Sheet I quoted from is probably from a different company.

     

    If the caps you are using are working that is the best measure of functionality.

     

    John

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 4 years ago in reply to jw0752

    It's a typo from pasting which I will fix - the uF was changed to a mF because in the datasheet its the actual Greek letter!  It is a 0.33uF tantalum that is required.  I picked up the change of 0.7 [Omega] to 0.7W on the paste though!!

     

    Tantalum Polymer caps start at 1uF but are the only ones capable of getting an ESR < 0.7 Ohms.  Ditto Aluminium Polymer caps.  Tantalum at 0.33uF have way, way larger ESRs than 0.7Ohms - I can go higher to say 3.3uF or larger and find caps with a low enough ESR and larger is ok;  Alu electrolytics may just make it.  

     

    It would seem that the output capacitor needs ESR so as long as I avoid MLCC and polymer it should be ok.

     

    Given whatever I do I have to buy them in and I have to change the PCB, I'm still curious about the advantages of using tantalum over electrolytics. 

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  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 4 years ago in reply to Andrew J

    In the good old days (1970s) tantalum caps were cheap and common. Since then tantalum supplies have become more of an issue, ceramic caps have become available in high values and many new dielectrics, and electrolytic caps have improved in leaps and bounds. And surface mounting.

     

    Most of the data sheets for 78xx and 79xx regulators have not been revised for decades (literally) and their references to capacitor types are totally out of date.

     

    Now, as a first base, I would use a ceramic or aluminium electrolytic for both input and output capacitor on a 78xx or 78xx regulator.

     

    For other (and modern) regulators I would check the data sheet, some are happy with ceramic input and output caps, some are fussy.

     

    I might well ignore the recommendations and use aluminium polymer caps instead of large value ceramics.

     

    I would only use tantalum or niobium caps as a very last resort - they are expensive, often hard to get and only very rarely a functional improvement on other types.

     

    When using large ceramic caps be very careful about voltage ratings, dielectrics and values. Many of the high K dielectrics have terrible voltage coefficients - check the data sheets, some caps are down to well under 50% of nominal capacity at rated voltage !

     

    MK

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 4 years ago in reply to michaelkellett

    Very useful info, thanks Michael.  I have been looking at some different components but a lot seem to be old and refer to the use of tantalum caps.  The LT1175 whilst referring to the 'optimum capacitor being tantalum' at least acknowledges the use of other types and has been designed for an output capacitor with a wide range of size and 0Ohm to 10Ohm ESR - the datasheet is the most informative when it comes to describing input/output caps.

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