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Member's Forum Triac not shutting off (24v AC sprinkler valve control)
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  • State Verified Answer
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  • valve
  • ac
  • triac
  • sprinkler
  • 24v
  • opensprinkler
Related

Triac not shutting off (24v AC sprinkler valve control)

ntewinkel
ntewinkel over 9 years ago

Hi All,

 

I'm working on replacing my aging and broken sprinkler controller, and found some open source software (OpenSprinkler) to run on a Raspberry Pi that handles the scheduling very nicely (plus it has an app for my phone).

With that software I'm able to control a couple of shift registers to turn LEDs on and off, simulating the sprinkling zones.

 

I'm not very familiar with TRIACs (read: not at all familiar, never used them before image), but recently I learned that the sprinkler valves use 24v AC and that TRIACs would be a good way to switch them, with relays generally being rather big once you get 16 of them lined up, and regular power transistors only being good for DC.

 

I bought some BRT12H "non-zero crossing" opto-isolating TRIACs (datasheet: http://www.vishay.com/docs/83689/83689.pdf), because they seemed to meet the desirements of opto-isolating and AC for 250mA.

 

I hooked them up (with 220ohm resistors from shift registers to TRIACs), and it all looked promising when I turned the first zone on (sprinklers worked, yay!), but then it wouldn't shut off (sprinklers still working, not yay!). It only shuts off if I remove the 24v power momentarily.

 

I've done some Googling around but have not yet found any solution, and to be honest it's not making a whole lot of sense to me (yet... hopefully yet).

 

I did find out that TRIACs (in general?) need to cross zero (volts?) to turn off. I'm not sure what this "non-zero crossing" bit means but I have a nagging suspicion that it's a key part of the issue.

Should I have bought "zero crossing" TRIACs instead?

 

Can anyone help shed some light?  ...and hopefully also shed a solution image

 

ps, I did see that I can buy a pre-built board for not too expensive (about $80 after shipping and taxes), but it's a cool DIY project and it would be far more satisfying (and educational) to build it myself.

 

edit: While doing more searching for answers I noticed that SSRs (solid state relays) do exist that are tiny chips, like this one, DIP-8: http://www.sharpsma.com/webfm_send/335  - very cool.

 

Thanks!

-Nico

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Top Replies

  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel +3 suggested
    Hi Nico, AC solenoids will convert to DC solenoids quite easily if you are willing to reduce the voltage. What will remain constant for proper operation is the wattage of the solenoid. For example your…
  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 9 years ago in reply to jw0752 +2 suggested
    You are using LV, so it probably won't matter as much, but for line potentials, only certain types of Cs are a good choice in this rough service, metallized polyester being one.
  • jc2048
    jc2048 over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel +2 suggested
    "And what is the best way to figure out the values?" Iteration. Increase the capacitor value and decrease the resistor value a bit and try again. But when you get down to a resistor value of 100 ohms and…
Parents
  • D_Hersey
    0 D_Hersey over 9 years ago

    The only relays that work on an arbitrarily inductive load are the mercury-wetted types.  Thyratrons can handle fairly large inductances.

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  • ntewinkel
    0 ntewinkel over 9 years ago in reply to D_Hersey

    I suppose if they last long enough (years as opposed to days) then those boards are easy enough and cheap enough to swap out. But yeah that's not an ideal solution for sure.

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    Hi Nico,

     

    I hope you're well!

    I saw this topic late, but just wondering, it could be easier to control the low-voltage sprinkler from a DC supply than AC (i.e. diode bridge and capacitor, and then a MOSFET circuit or similar if you're looking for electronic control).

    I did look at the URL regarding sprinklers and it goes on about inductance, but I think they're over-thinking it. With an AC supply the valve will use a certain amount of

    real power. Provided the DC supply provides that too, then there is no issue with overheating or reduced life, etc. If you have access to a variable/bench DC supply, an option could be to increase the voltage

    until it functions reliably, and doesn't get hot.

    I'm not knowledgeable on valves though, so maybe I've missed something. But could be worth a try with DC just to confirm operation.

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    Hi Nico,

     

    I hope you're well!

    I saw this topic late, but just wondering, it could be easier to control the low-voltage sprinkler from a DC supply than AC (i.e. diode bridge and capacitor, and then a MOSFET circuit or similar if you're looking for electronic control).

    I did look at the URL regarding sprinklers and it goes on about inductance, but I think they're over-thinking it. With an AC supply the valve will use a certain amount of

    real power. Provided the DC supply provides that too, then there is no issue with overheating or reduced life, etc. If you have access to a variable/bench DC supply, an option could be to increase the voltage

    until it functions reliably, and doesn't get hot.

    I'm not knowledgeable on valves though, so maybe I've missed something. But could be worth a try with DC just to confirm operation.

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  • ntewinkel
    0 ntewinkel over 9 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Hi Shabaz!

     

    it could be easier to control ... from a DC supply

    That's what I'm thinking too. DC makes sense to me (mostly). AC, especially with the funny interactions with inductors, is constantly throwing me unexpected curve balls!

    OpenSprinkler talks about their 9 volt DC solution, so I will probably look into that, as 9 volt adapters are cheap and plentiful (and I have a handful of those in my "big box o' adapters"). The only tricky part there is that he does a short burst of 12 volt to latch the solenoid. I do have some DC-DC boost converter modules that might do the trick for that (saving me some circuit building).

     

    All the software and schematics are open source, so that should help:

    https://github.com/rayshobby/opensprinkler

     

    On that note, I looked at the expansion board schematics (which is pretty much what I'm building right now), and (for each valve) they just use a MAC97 triac (no opto isolator), and a TVS (transient voltage suppressor, instead of the MOVs used in some of their other boards). The TVSs are supposedly just to protect against spikes from things like lightning. No snubbers.

     

    Anyway, after seeing that I ordered some of those MAC97s and similar TVSs - just a couple bucks each (*cough*ebay*cough*) so that's worth the experimentation. I also bought some MOC30somethings and related higher amp triacs (edit: BTA12) to try that arrangement.

     

    I'm into it this far now, so I can't give up!! image

     

    Funny enough, I started with this triac solution because I thought it would be a quick and easy fix for the time being!

    And yes for 80 bucks (after shipping to Canada) I can buy this prebuilt solution (http://www.diygadget.com/tiao-smart-sprinkler-pi-16-station-sprinkler-controller-open-source-desktop-mobile-app.html ), but where's the fun in that? image

     

    Oh well, the rainy season is upon us now, so I have all winter to figure this out.

     

    -Nico

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    DC makes sense to me

    This was interesting reading, but on my browser the diagrams didn't show up.

    AC vs. DC | Flow Control Network

     

    With winter here, it looks like you have ample time to resolve the problems

     

     

    Mark

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  • ntewinkel
    0 ntewinkel over 9 years ago in reply to mcb1

    I don't think it's your browser - I don't see the pictures either image

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