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Member's Forum Triac not shutting off (24v AC sprinkler valve control)
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  • valve
  • ac
  • triac
  • sprinkler
  • 24v
  • opensprinkler
Related

Triac not shutting off (24v AC sprinkler valve control)

ntewinkel
ntewinkel over 9 years ago

Hi All,

 

I'm working on replacing my aging and broken sprinkler controller, and found some open source software (OpenSprinkler) to run on a Raspberry Pi that handles the scheduling very nicely (plus it has an app for my phone).

With that software I'm able to control a couple of shift registers to turn LEDs on and off, simulating the sprinkling zones.

 

I'm not very familiar with TRIACs (read: not at all familiar, never used them before image), but recently I learned that the sprinkler valves use 24v AC and that TRIACs would be a good way to switch them, with relays generally being rather big once you get 16 of them lined up, and regular power transistors only being good for DC.

 

I bought some BRT12H "non-zero crossing" opto-isolating TRIACs (datasheet: http://www.vishay.com/docs/83689/83689.pdf), because they seemed to meet the desirements of opto-isolating and AC for 250mA.

 

I hooked them up (with 220ohm resistors from shift registers to TRIACs), and it all looked promising when I turned the first zone on (sprinklers worked, yay!), but then it wouldn't shut off (sprinklers still working, not yay!). It only shuts off if I remove the 24v power momentarily.

 

I've done some Googling around but have not yet found any solution, and to be honest it's not making a whole lot of sense to me (yet... hopefully yet).

 

I did find out that TRIACs (in general?) need to cross zero (volts?) to turn off. I'm not sure what this "non-zero crossing" bit means but I have a nagging suspicion that it's a key part of the issue.

Should I have bought "zero crossing" TRIACs instead?

 

Can anyone help shed some light?  ...and hopefully also shed a solution image

 

ps, I did see that I can buy a pre-built board for not too expensive (about $80 after shipping and taxes), but it's a cool DIY project and it would be far more satisfying (and educational) to build it myself.

 

edit: While doing more searching for answers I noticed that SSRs (solid state relays) do exist that are tiny chips, like this one, DIP-8: http://www.sharpsma.com/webfm_send/335  - very cool.

 

Thanks!

-Nico

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    I was wondering what the purpose is of the two 1n4148 diodes?

    You aren't alone in that.

     

    It would stop voltage less than 0.6v from passing, and since it is AC it requires back to back, but other than that I'm not sure.

    Since it worked in a piece of commercial equipment, we simply copied it and I've used it ever since.

     

    Mark

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  • ntewinkel
    0 ntewinkel over 9 years ago in reply to mcb1

    I finally had the time (and parts) to get back to this again, and your circuit works perfectly, thanks Mark! mcb1

     

    I'm using moc3021 for the optoisolator, and mac97A for the triac.

     

    I was wondering what the purpose is of the two 1n4148 diodes?

    From another circuit diagram, I noticed they just used a bigger resistor - and the circuit works if I replace the (150r and diodes) with a single 1k resistor.

     

    And OpenSprinkler doesn't do any of that - and looks like kind of a bad design now image

     

    Thanks,

    -Nico

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  • ntewinkel
    0 ntewinkel over 9 years ago in reply to mcb1

    I don't think it's your browser - I don't see the pictures either image

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    DC makes sense to me

    This was interesting reading, but on my browser the diagrams didn't show up.

    AC vs. DC | Flow Control Network

     

    With winter here, it looks like you have ample time to resolve the problems

     

     

    Mark

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 9 years ago in reply to jw0752

    jw0752

    Thanks for the explanation regarding DC solenoids.

    I had always thought that you couldn't really change an AC one, but it seems that it's the DC ones that aren't happy.

     

    Mark

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  • jc2048
    0 jc2048 over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    The simulator is TI-TINA. It's a cut-down version of a commercial offering which is given away for free by Texas Instruments.

     

    http://www.ti.com/tool/tina-ti

     

    The schematic capture is irritating - you draw the nets on, so it's very easy to get nets that don't join or bits that sit on top of each other. The simulation warns you if there are dangling connections, but you still have to go back and repair something the software should just get right.

     

    There is a reasonable range of library parts built in, which is good. It's good because importing component models is a bit of a pain [that's the case with any simulator - it isn't a deficiency of this particlar one].

     

    You could also try Linear Technology's offering

     

    http://www.linear.com/designtools/software/

     

    I tried this a long time back and it was very biassed to Linear's own devices [understandably], but perfectly useable. I really ought to give it another go because I'm sure they'll have developed it further in the meantime. [TI's offering is also biassed, but since their catalogue includes so many generic parts you don't really notice.]

     

    Since they are free, you could install both and see which you like using.

     

    I was being stupid about the solenoid; of course the inductance changes as the plunger moves because the magnetic circuit changes. Don't even know where you'd start to model that, though.

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  • jw0752
    0 jw0752 over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    Hi Nico,

     

    AC solenoids will convert to DC solenoids quite easily if you are willing to reduce the voltage. What will remain constant for proper operation is the wattage of the solenoid. For example your solenoids appear to be about 6 Watts. 24 V AC * 250 mA. As you have stated the coil resistance is 32 ohms so the DC voltage at which 6 watts will be produced in this resistance is V = SQRT(32 Ohms * 6 Watts)  = SQRT( 192)  = 13.9 Volts. In reality your solenoids will likely energize at 9-10 Volts. You can experiment with this and of course the new lower voltage across the 32 Ohms will produce a current of about 430 mA. You can experiment with your solenoids to see how this works out. I would probably try 12 volts and see how well the solenoids respond. Be certain to test them under pressure as the plunger has to be pulled, not only against the force of the spring but also against the force created by the pressure of the water over the area of the opening in the valve seat.

     

    DC solenoids do not convert to AC solenoids as easily. The plunger of an AC solenoid is especially designed not to react to the fluctuating magnetic field. The plunger of a DC solenoid on the other hand will react and you will hear a buzz that will be the plunger chattering against its stop. Over time this produces metal wear and failure. It is also quite annoying to listen to. You can relate this to the way AC and DC relays act when subjected to voltage for which they are not designed.

     

    For the fun of it I ran an experiment with a 120 VAC solenoid I had here in the shop and I was able to convert it to proper operation using 40 Volts DC at 190mA   where it originally was 120 Volts @ 70 mA.

     

    John

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  • ntewinkel
    0 ntewinkel over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    I realized that I replaced a couple of sprinkler valves recently, and those were the ones I was testing my circuit with, so I measured one of them just to make sure (previous numbers were from an original, but working, valve). Results were actually a bit better...

     

    (Valve in ground, measured from panel in garage)

    Resistance 32 ohm

    Inductance 85 mH

    When on, uses 189 mA  (hooray, the new valves save me power! image)

     

    Cheers,

    -Nico

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  • ntewinkel
    0 ntewinkel over 9 years ago in reply to shabaz

    Hi Shabaz!

     

    it could be easier to control ... from a DC supply

    That's what I'm thinking too. DC makes sense to me (mostly). AC, especially with the funny interactions with inductors, is constantly throwing me unexpected curve balls!

    OpenSprinkler talks about their 9 volt DC solution, so I will probably look into that, as 9 volt adapters are cheap and plentiful (and I have a handful of those in my "big box o' adapters"). The only tricky part there is that he does a short burst of 12 volt to latch the solenoid. I do have some DC-DC boost converter modules that might do the trick for that (saving me some circuit building).

     

    All the software and schematics are open source, so that should help:

    https://github.com/rayshobby/opensprinkler

     

    On that note, I looked at the expansion board schematics (which is pretty much what I'm building right now), and (for each valve) they just use a MAC97 triac (no opto isolator), and a TVS (transient voltage suppressor, instead of the MOVs used in some of their other boards). The TVSs are supposedly just to protect against spikes from things like lightning. No snubbers.

     

    Anyway, after seeing that I ordered some of those MAC97s and similar TVSs - just a couple bucks each (*cough*ebay*cough*) so that's worth the experimentation. I also bought some MOC30somethings and related higher amp triacs (edit: BTA12) to try that arrangement.

     

    I'm into it this far now, so I can't give up!! image

     

    Funny enough, I started with this triac solution because I thought it would be a quick and easy fix for the time being!

    And yes for 80 bucks (after shipping to Canada) I can buy this prebuilt solution (http://www.diygadget.com/tiao-smart-sprinkler-pi-16-station-sprinkler-controller-open-source-desktop-mobile-app.html ), but where's the fun in that? image

     

    Oh well, the rainy season is upon us now, so I have all winter to figure this out.

     

    -Nico

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 9 years ago in reply to ntewinkel

    Hi Nico,

     

    I hope you're well!

    I saw this topic late, but just wondering, it could be easier to control the low-voltage sprinkler from a DC supply than AC (i.e. diode bridge and capacitor, and then a MOSFET circuit or similar if you're looking for electronic control).

    I did look at the URL regarding sprinklers and it goes on about inductance, but I think they're over-thinking it. With an AC supply the valve will use a certain amount of

    real power. Provided the DC supply provides that too, then there is no issue with overheating or reduced life, etc. If you have access to a variable/bench DC supply, an option could be to increase the voltage

    until it functions reliably, and doesn't get hot.

    I'm not knowledgeable on valves though, so maybe I've missed something. But could be worth a try with DC just to confirm operation.

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