Help?

Are you sure you're using the right software for your particular desired workflow?

It doesn't sound like it.

EAGLE is all about schematics and then building a circuit board from there.

Schematics parts often don't use the same number of pins as a physical part.

If you just want to lay 'holes', then there may be other software out there that

you could be using - EAGLE would be extreme overkill for that -

although it could do it, you'd have to plough through the user documentation -

it's not intended to a MS Paint replacement and so the workflow isn't as simple

with EAGLE.

By the way, your part number M27C801-100B1 really is a 32-pin device,

not a 42-pin device.

I know the M27C801-100B1 is a 32 dip, however it is the chip I currently

use right now for my boards. I need to move up to the bigger chip which is

why I need the adapter board made. I only chose that from the library as it

was all there was and I knew the hole sizes and spacing was what I needed.

I was hoping I could just lay that chip out twice or something and over lap

the pins or just add the extra holes needed. I'm just going to call it a

day and pay somebody to do this. I really wanted to do it myself but I

can't waste all this time into this program.

As far as other programs, maybe but I'm pretty burnt out and annoyed right

now that I don't think I want to waste any more time learning another

program that may not be correct for what I need done.

Thanks for the reply. It's nice to get some input from someone.

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Actually I may be onto something. I imported a header pin file and I am

using that for the spacing. I just added that component to a schematic and

switched to board.

I am now placing holes in the exact layout of the header pins and using my

board and chips I have on hand my chips pins are exactly 7 holes apart so 7

header pin spaces. I now figured out the group thing. Select a group and

right clicking I can move all the holes to the correct spots.

I'm going to measure it all and place my holes accordingly and then run

wires between the holes, I hope that counts as traces lol.

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This is like using the unsharpened edge of the knife to cut pizza. It may work or may not, but it is not ideal - it is a hack.

Expect to invest several days of time with the EAGLE PDF documentation (and walking through online tutorials or videos -

there are thousands of them, EAGLE is one of the more popular packages) if you want to do it the right method which involves

these topics: parts creation (symbol, package, device) and library management and manual routing.

Your method of searching for the nearest part and just using it as-is on the schematic and overlaying holes for example

is not popular because it is not scalable (once a board has more than a handful of parts on it) and error-prone for large

boards (it will violate error rules and design rules unless you manually clear them).

It might work for your 1-component board, but it is not something EAGLE was designed to intentionally handle without

flagging errors.

Well I am at a loss. Besides finding someone to do this for me doing it

myself is the only option. Since I am not pro at this stuff I can only do

what I can do. I need this board. I have started on it and I think I can

make it work. Yes "make it work" is all I am shooing for at this point.

I do not know of any other program to use that would be any simpler or

different. I still need to d a bit more research about connecting traces

through the backside of the board as there is not enough room on one side

to run all the traces.

This is my progress; hack job or not, one way or another I need an adapter

board so I can make money. I increased the hole sizes and everything seems

to scale according to the board size and all. Not all the holes need to be

connected but more do and most will have to route to backside of board.

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/icemanxp300/media/ssssssss_zpsnczob0na.jpg.html

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Well, looks like you're kind-of getting there.

Consider using SIL part MA07-1 (it is in library con-lstb), you could just search for that in the add component dialog, since it is 7 SIL pins then three of them will be 21 pins for one side of your component, and add another three for 42 pins total.

Do all that in the schematic view, not the board view, and then use the 'Net' icon, _not_ the 'Wire' icon in the toolbar, to draw the lines connecting it to wherever you want. You can flip to the board view at any time, and see the 'airwaves'.

Once you're done, then in the board view, you can convert the airwaves into routed tracks manually, by clicking on the 'Route Manually" icon in the toolbar. You can flip between top and bottom layer any time with that tool and it will insert a plated through hole via automatically.

That is a quick description, you'll really need to spend a day or two with tutorials/videos to understand it better, there is no quick solution.

On 27/09/15 03:49, Greg wrote:

As far as other programs, maybe but I'm pretty burnt out and annoyed right

now that I don't think I want to waste any more time learning another

program that may not be correct for what I need done.

It seems to me you've not made any effort to learn this one, nor to

learn the basic principles of the task this one is designed for. Now you

are fully at liberty to not want to put the effort in, but if you do

take that tack then you have a moral duty to accept the blame yourself

and NOT BLAME THE TOOL. It's a perfectly good tool, you just don't want

to use it right. Like the blunt edge of the pizza knife, or the

screwdriver as a hammer.

The work flow in electronics design IS ALWAYS to start with a schematic,

select components with appropriate packages, create library parts as

required, and only then start to worry about layout. THIS DOES STILL

APPLY in the trivial case you have, regardless of whether you think "oh

it's just..." - because even that statement is a description of the

schematic you should start by drawing. Or rather, the statement is a

vague, hand-wavy marketing overview of the requirement. You really need

to formalise that requirement by drawing a schematic. Only then can you

consider how to implement it on a PCB.

If you give up on your preconception that "it's too trivial" and admit

that for a proper job you need to be precise in your requirements, then

you'll find that Eagle does help a lot. Sure, it's a non-trivial

learning curve, but then all such tools are.

I had to redo that and I did it wrong LOL. It's actually getting funny now.

I made it so my chip would sit on top of adapter board but that doesn''t

work because of how I have to solder the header pins. Now I have to redo it

all.

I may try your advice this time as I ran wires and placed vias manually and

just toggled between top and bottom when I ran the wires. This is def. a

learning experience lol. I will get this done tomorrow shouldn't take me

too long now that I have done a few times.

Will it not work if I do it all in board view or is it just easier to do it

in schematic? The problem was I initially placed 6 of those headers but it

did not distinguish them at all when I went to board view. I would have to

rename or something so I knew which was what.

I can try doing it in schematic view as I have a better idea of what I am

doing now. we'll see.

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Rob Pearce wrote on Sun, 27 September 2015 03:48

On 27/09/15 03:49, Greg wrote:

As far as other programs, maybe but I'm pretty burnt out and

annoyed right

now that I don't think I want to waste any more time learning

another

program that may not be correct for what I need done.

 

It seems to me you've not made any effort to learn this one, nor to

learn the basic principles of the task this one is designed for. Now

you

are fully at liberty to not want to put the effort in, but if you do

take that tack then you have a moral duty to accept the blame yourself

and NOT BLAME THE TOOL. It's a perfectly good tool, you just don't

want

to use it right. Like the blunt edge of the pizza knife, or the

screwdriver as a hammer.

Dude burnt out because I have spent countless hours trying to learn this

program w/zero success. Don't say I did not put forth any effort. If

creating a library part was simple I would have done that. I may be able to

now as I know more about the program. My main confusion in beginning was

ignorantly selecting circle instead of hole lol.

I have never used a program like this before so yeah it is kicking my ... I

imagine most people have some kind of assistance such as a teacher in

school helping them. I'm on my pc watching videos and reading web pages

trying to understand this thing.

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This is a waste of my time. I don't think I even did it right last night. I

need pads around the circles. There is no option to add a pad. This is just

unreal.

I added (6) 7 pin headers and 6(6) 6 pin header and those have pads, except

when you draw a wire from them on the schematic view the wires don't show

in the board layout.

I seriously feel like an idiot. I am way better off waiting for someone to

respond and do this for me.

You say this program is easy, well it does not seem easy to me. I can't

even get a trace ran.

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This is a waste of my time. I don't think I even did it right last night. I

need pads around the circles. There is no option to add a pad. This is just

unreal.

I added (6) 7 pin headers and 6(6) 6 pin header and those have pads, except

when you draw a wire from them on the schematic view the wires don't show

in the board layout.

I seriously feel like an idiot. I am way better off waiting for someone to

respond and do this for me.

You say this program is easy, well it does not seem easy to me. I can't

even get a trace ran.

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Well after watching more videos of this program it appears what I need is

to "define an electrical connection". Well that option is NOT available in

my version, it is no where to be found.

Yes this program sucks! Must have to buy the real version in order for it

to be a useful program. It's kind of like this website. Their is NO edit

available anywhere, so you have to make a new post every time.

Wow I will never ever recommend this program to anyone it is completely

useless.

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Hi Greg,

You could pay someone to do this for you if you're not prepared to do it yourself, or you may be

better off with alternative software - I don't know what though, because no-one works in this manner

any more. Adding pads individually went out with the sticky-backed-crepe-paper-on-transparency-film

methods of the 1970's.

Somebody (e.g. a student) would probably do it for you in EAGLE for a few hundred dollars - it is probably just an

evenings work including the time to discuss it.

Yes I am going to have to pay someone. Maybe pads was the wrong term to

use. I am simply talking about the round rings on ever through hole.

All I want is 42 holes cut w/the copper rings around them that connect to

traces that will run to the other 36 holes w/rings around those.

It will be very similar to this board. It will only have 1 eprom connected

instead of 2 like this board has. The board will be shaped a bit different

as well. This is however what I need, just different chip and size. But

that is the boards I will be connecting these to.

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/icemanxp300/media/adapter_zpsrn66oleo.jpg.html

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On 27/09/2015 18:21, Greg wrote:

Yes this program sucks! Must have to buy the real version in order for it

to be a useful program. It's kind of like this website. Their is NO edit

available anywhere, so you have to make a new post every time.

 

Wow I will never ever recommend this program to anyone it is completely

useless.

I truly sympathize with you because I've been where you are not long

ago. I still struggle, but not as much because after a lot of

frustrations and learning I finally have a general overview and grasp of

how it all works. That makes it easier to learn more.

Eagle is (even the free version, which I use as well), like most other

professional and specialized tools, an advanced application which isn't

self-explanetory like a web browser, word processor or email program or

whatever but takes a lot of time and effort to learn.

I suggest you either hang in there to get an overview and understanding

of the software by reading web tutorials, tutorial videos on Youtube

etc. and of course practising yourself, but if you only need to have a

single PCB done I agree with what others have said: pay someone to get

the job done, because for that alone I would say the learning curve

isn't worth it.

L.

Thanks lol. At this point it has zero to do with $$, and is more so

principal now. I generally don't have too many problems learning stuff and

I can pick stuff up pretty quick, not this. I even took cad in high

school.

It is driving me nuts. I watched the tutorial on youtube from Jeremy Blum.

That helped like crazy, however For the life of me I can't figure out how

to draw a simple freaking trace from a to b!

The header pin I upload has 7 spots for holes but in schematic view it is

one entire structure, you can't define the individual holes or I don't know

how. I can run wires, net wires, buses, and all in schematic but once I go

to board view not a single one transfers with the components like he did in

the video.

Once in board view it will not let me run any wires as it says that needs

to be done in schematic, seriously I want to punch the person who wrote

this damn thing! You can do this but nothing happens and if you don't do

that you can't do it later.

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I finally got a wire to show I want a cookie! I can not believe this

program is sooooo anal that it required my net wire to attach to the very

end of the pin lead it shows in schematic view, unbelievable. Further more

unless you have the grid size adjusted small enough you can never place the

wire on the exact end spot that it needs.

This is absolutely a horrific experience and very poor programming. I took

some programming courses a bit awhile ago and every time I go to a webpage

and it ask to input data such as a birthdate and I have to manually click

each box, that is the same principle here. All it takes is a simple line of

code so when you enter your data in box a it automatically goes to box b

for you.

This program is very picky and not user friendly one bit!

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I sure do hope this is correct. I just ran connections all in schematic. I

went into net classes and made width .5mm, drill 1mm, and clearance .5mm I

then ran auto router and this is end result?

I have that hole on bottom that is suppose to be 1/4" but it doesn't look

like a 1/4" hole in the green pic. I had only shown layers, pads, holes,

drills, and vias.

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/icemanxp300/media/Finished%20board%20%20segments_zpsc3hbnbnn.jpg.html

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Quote:

M27C801-100B1

Except for the mounting hole, you need PADS not holes. A pad is a hole with

copper around it. You cannot connect copper traces to holes. You can only

connect traces to pads. According the the drill symbols, your mounting hole

is actually the same diameter as the drill for the pads. To make it 1/4",

click on "i", then click on the hole. In the dialog box you can edit the

drill size of the hole. BTW, 1/4" is HUGE. You will then have to re-route

your board. First, you need to rip-up the traces. Type "RIP *" (without the

quotes) into the command line. Then route the board.

I see that there are several pins that aren't connected to anything. All

CMOS inputs *MUST* be connected to either +V via a resistor (i.e. 10K) or

directly to ground. CMOS inputs will act erratically (bounce between '0'

and '1') if left floating (unconnected), and your board will act

erratically, too. Floating inputs also draw more power. You may be able to

get away with leaving them float, but then you will have failures in the

field.

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Well it has pads on both sides. I used a "header pin" layout remember.

Trust me I barely understand what I did. I just dropped the library file

and sent it out. I actually got some boards in today. I only ordered 10 to

make sure they will work.

I need the 1/4" hole as the case it goes into has a 3/16" peg that pushes

against the main pcb that this will be sitting atop of.

The only thing I did not do that I have heard mixed feelings about is

ground the unused pins. I guess I could do that before I order the bulk of

the load, but I made a test board and ran like 35 wires by hand and just

bent up the pins to nothing and it works fine, that was months ago I did

that and it still works fine?

http://s14.photobucket.com/user/icemanxp300/media/100_1030_zps9sraditr.jpg.html

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