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KEYSIGHT TECHNOLOGIES
Forum component testing with keysight dsox1102g scope
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  • component tester
  • elenco
  • short
Related

component testing with keysight dsox1102g scope

johnwater
johnwater over 5 years ago

hello would like to learn how to measure components on my elenco am radio kit.

am new to electronics, trying to figure things out.

read about lissajous patterns, just need some direction as to how to set up my connections, see if components are functioning as necessary.

my 9 volt battery gets hot, no audio output,so  i think i have short somewhere?

thanks

john

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  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater +4 suggested
    The soldering is good. I see that most of the transistors are NPN. There's 2 PNPs that I can see (Q5, Q7). You have different part numbers for those? Electrolytic capacitors look correct (I can't see the…
  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to shabaz +4 suggested
    Looking at the potentiometer, it seems that it has been inserted from the wrong side (inserted from above instead of pushed in from the underside).. The movable switch part looks forced (blue), and the…
  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to fmilburn +4 suggested
    I think that the second pin of the switch is soldered to the wrong hole:
  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    While reworking, you may want to redo C14 as per instructions.

    image

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  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 5 years ago

    John, advise for when you’re building the next kit, and you’re still learning electronics:

     

    Try to stay closer to the instructions. The buildup is expected to be done in stages, then tested before you continue.

    The issue at hand would then have been detected at page 10 during the power up test. At that time, there were 50% less components on the PCB that coul be the culprit. That could have helped narrowing the issue.

     

    The intermediate tests they propose are also nicely isolated training opportunities because the scope is limited at each phase of the buildup + test cycle.

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  • johnwater
    0 johnwater over 5 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    thanks jan

    advice accepted .

    john

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  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    Let us know how the fix worked. I'm hoping the radio will work now.

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  • johnwater
    0 johnwater over 5 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    yes you are right.the small tab on pot base needs to fit in the closest slot, although i am not sure it is soldered in.it is underneath the base when pot is on the board, making it difficult to solder.

    thnaks

    john

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  • johnwater
    0 johnwater over 5 years ago in reply to Jan Cumps

    just curious, why do you think they recommend this capacitor placed on the copper side?not talked about in instructions.

    john

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    Hi John,

    I think it's just in case it gets fitted back-to-front by mistake, or gets dented or some other damage. Because it's a large capacitor connected to the supply rails, they may have worried it could burst.. i.e. not pleasant on the side of the board facing the user. They can vent vertically, either from the metal circle portion, or the underside black portion.

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  • johnwater
    0 johnwater over 5 years ago in reply to shabaz

    he's the pot shell bas e does have a small tab on bottoms guess that should fit it the closest slot.but not sure it should be soldered?as it is underneath the base, hard to get to.the instructions not to solder 5 lugs' guess 3 wipers and 2 switch lugs, no mention of the small tab.

    thanks

    john

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  • shabaz
    0 shabaz over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    Hi John,

     

    It (mostly) doesn't matter electrically. As you say, it's just a 3 terminal potentiometer, and a switch. You can use judgement to determine if that lug needs soldering or not (e.g. based on how physically strong it is, etc.

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  • Jan Cumps
    0 Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to johnwater

    the small tab should not be soldered.

     

    edit: some background on that:

     

    All the contacts are made of a compliant metal. When force is put on the potentiometer, the flex in the leads will absorb it and little force goes to the solder pad.

    The tab is made of hard iron and its role is to physically prevent rotation/slip. It's non-compliant, and any force on it is directly transferred to the sides of the hole it's mounted in.

    If you solder this, slip force will be put on the (weak by nature) solder joint. It either will crack or tear the pad off the PCB.

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