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  • dougw
  • PCB holders
  • PCB vises
Related

PCB Holders

dougw
dougw over 1 year ago

I've been doing some reorganizing and noticed I have a collection of PCB holders. I decided to do a quick post on them to spark some discussion around what constitutes a good PCB holder.

This video is a brief overview of the holders I have and how I use them.

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What do you use to hold PCBs and what do you think is a good holder system?

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 1 year ago in reply to colporteur +3
    It is a genius material, so many uses. It comes in a sheet form, between waxed paper. The first time it is used, it just needs to be stretched a bit, and it becomes sticky (without leaving any residue…
  • michaelkellett
    michaelkellett over 1 year ago +3
    My favourites are steel toolmakers vices. I bought three at a very good price from MSV a couple of years ago - never seen good ones so cheap again They do for all sorts of things apart from holding…
  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 1 year ago in reply to colporteur +2
    Seriously, blu-tack is the way to go here as they don't move at all once stuck down - the only thing to be aware of is avoiding getting blu-tack stuck in any empty holes! I picked that tip up from Shabaz…
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  • colporteur
    colporteur over 1 year ago

    Your post was very timely for me.

    I use the through hole device you presented. I have a few of the others you mentioned also.

    You answered the question I was going to ask and that was "How do you hold components to solder once you flip them.?" I will find a piece of foam and give it a try.

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 1 year ago in reply to colporteur

    Seriously, blu-tack is the way to go here as they don't move at all once stuck down - the only thing to be aware of is avoiding getting blu-tack stuck in any empty holes!  I picked that tip up from Shabaz.

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 1 year ago in reply to colporteur

    Seriously, blu-tack is the way to go here as they don't move at all once stuck down - the only thing to be aware of is avoiding getting blu-tack stuck in any empty holes!  I picked that tip up from Shabaz.

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  • anniel747
    anniel747 over 1 year ago in reply to Andrew J

    Contacts contamination risk.

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 1 year ago in reply to anniel747

    Never, ever, ever been a problem.  Do as normal: clean the PCB with IPA after soldering.

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  • anniel747
    anniel747 over 1 year ago in reply to Andrew J

    I have seen it a few time from pros to DIY jobs. Some connectors needed replacement. 

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 1 year ago in reply to anniel747

    Blu-Tack is about as harmless as anything, perhaps there is a chance of finger oils on the board/components or handling the solder causing more contamination. 

    Blu-Tack is also useful to raise some components slightly off the board (this can be done without the blu-tack touching the wires if desired, but it's hard to see that being an issue for anything apart from space-lasers or other critical stuff. There's no need to wedge Blu-Tack into connector pins, just a couple of blobs can support each end.

    Besides, the Weller clamp has plastic pieces and foam, there's a chance of contamination from that if the soldering iron accidentally touches and melts it.

    I use a similar tool vice as Doug, but a lightweight aluminium version. Main downside is that it can't handle boards much bigger than 60mm, but that covers 80% of the stuff I work on.

    image

    It has a V-notch that's handy for circular connectors, but recently I've been thinking of making some 3D-printed clamp for one or two circular connectors that can get particularly awkward. No time to work on it : (

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  • dougw
    dougw over 1 year ago in reply to shabaz

    I have a couple of cheap plastic vises with this form factor, but find they are too light (they slide around too easily) and they can't hold even a moderate sized card. That one looks pretty stable though. They were omitted from the video because I use them so little for holding PCBs, I probably looked right at them without remembering they could be used to hold PCBs...Relaxed

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 1 year ago in reply to dougw

    Yes it's great. It's lighter than iron or steel but not super-light. I think it's a clone of this, which is 500 grams:

    image

    I use it on this ESD mat (really excellent mat too, and surprisingly low-cost for the size!), and it doesn't slide around:

    image

    The jaws have a large flat top surface, and I end up using that as a "staging area" when soldering same-value SMD resistors etc! 

    There's also often blobs of blu-tack tacked on the top of the jaws, so that I can quickly hold a board down if it's too awkward for the jaws (e.g. if there are parts right to the edge, such as side-mounting right-angle SMA connectors etc!). 

    This one on Amazon looks so promising, and can handle boards up to 130mm wide! It is alu, 1kg:

    However, it's pricey : ( plus, the depth is 13mm, and there could be components taller than that off the surface of the PCB.

    Also, the recess for the PCB is just a bit too much (4mm).  It's a shame, it is so close! But good from far, far from good : (

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  • colporteur
    colporteur over 1 year ago in reply to Andrew J

    blu-tack is new to me. I have used Frog painters tape in the past. It is a real pain in the *** to use but I haven't discovered an alternative. Shabaz recommendations are top shelf. I'm curious to know more.

    Can you use it like a foam bed to hold multiple components in place while you flip the PCB to the soldering side?

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 1 year ago in reply to colporteur

    It is a genius material, so many uses. It comes in a sheet form, between waxed paper. The first time it is used, it just needs to be stretched a bit, and it becomes sticky (without leaving any residue). The properties of blu-tack remain approx. forever, i.e. the material is always reusable and never dries up.

    image

    It can hold multiple parts at once, the photo below shows a couple of parts being held down. It's strong enough that the parts don't move when soldering, and afterwards, it comes off in one piece, with no residue left. If it is in an awkward place, then dabbing it with a larger piece of it will lift it all off.

    I suppose it may leave a micro-film of oil, but probably no more than finger oil. When Blu-Tack is removed, the surface is dry and zero visible residue. Even if it gets hot, nothing seems to happen to it. It's as benign/inert as one could hope for I guess.

    image

    An example of holding a larger module; here the module was deliberately raised off the board slightly, just to demonstrate that Blu-Tack holds the item in a controlled fashion, and doesn't sag/slip in normal use:

    image

    It's super-useful for pin headers, LEDs, large capacitors, etc., it holds them all in vertical alignment!:

    image

    I also use it for holding down ICs too, connectors, pretty much anything. 

    The photos above show the board in an aluminium tool vice, and the top flat surfaces are ideal for Blu-Tack too,  e.g. if there is a large PCB to be held down, or to temporarily hold wires in position, etc.

    The genuine stuff is "Bostik Blu-Tack", and costs just over £1 here for a pack. Interesting seeing the scores in the Amazon results below... Surprising that any reviewer could possibly give it less than 5 full stars! 

    image

    Wikipedia entry of uses for it:

    image

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  • Andrew J
    Andrew J over 1 year ago in reply to shabaz

    There are variations on a theme as well.  My (now) wife brought a pack of white tack with her when she moved in 13 years ago.  No idea how old it actually is but it has never gone off and inevitably it’s always the same bits that get reused and reused and reused….  One could think the stuff is an environmental disaster.  Or maybe along with cockroaches the only thing that would survive a nuclear holocaust!  

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 1 year ago in reply to Andrew J

    Hehe definitely indestructible material : ) 

    I just saw this vice, wide enough for 100mm boards:

    image

    Still not fit-for-purpose since there's little depth, but the alu could easily be tapped and alu blocks screwed onto it to raise the clamping position.

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