Is it safe to power a raspberry pi from battery's?

Consider power as water, current as speed of flowing water and battery as a container...

What we really need to power anything is amount of the water(voltage) and throttle of the water(current)...

If the water container(battery) is not providing enough amount of water(voltage), add more containers(batteries) in series...

If the container(battery) is not providing enough throttle of water(current), add more containers(batteries) in parallel...

So, yes we can power anything with this logic

Consider power as water, current as speed of flowing water and battery as a container...

What we really need to power anything is amount of the water(voltage) and throttle of the water(current)...

If the water container(battery) is not providing enough amount of water(voltage), add more containers(batteries) in series...

If the container(battery) is not providing enough throttle of water(current), add more containers(batteries) in parallel...

So, yes we can power anything with this logic

Have raspberry pi 3 w/7inch monitor. Need more voltage. Raspberry pi 3 needs exactly 5 volts or it will throttle. That's why PSU with starter kit is 5.25 volts. I tried my 15.000 m Amp hour battery. It doesn't

drain fast, but it does not supply enough voltage for Pi3 not to throttle.

Can pi 3 over volt. How far is safe if it can.

Eric Kazer

I believe the problem is the current not the voltage. 15,000 mAh is a measure of current over time. I bet it delivers only 1.0 Amp. A Pi 3 needs more especially with a 7 inch display! If you have two usb connections, each is 1.0 Amp. Then drive one for the Pi 3 and separately drive the 7 inch display.

Clem

Battery pack has 2 1 amp outs, and 1 2.1 amp out. The pi3 is in the 2.1 amp out on the battery pack. When I was running pi2 it was ok. I should try putting the monitor and the audio amplifiers on their own 1 amp usb power outputs. The battery it's self might not be enough.

Thank You.

It was amperage. I connected the Raspberry Pi3 to the 2.1 amp USB by its self & the monitor to one of the 1 amp USB, then the 2 amplifiers to the last 1 amp USB. The volt drop stopped. No more colored box. No more CPU speed drop which was awful. I'm surprised at how critical .1 volt drop is to pi 3. That's all it was dropping. Now I can run games like Street Fighter movie, Metal Slug 4, Metal Slug X,3, etc..

Thanks again,

Eric

I am running the same setup as you are, pi 3 with 7" touch screen as well as a mouse and keyboard. I am using the 15000 mAh SNUG power bank which outputs 5.0V at 3.0A and i can run my setup for a full 12 hours with constant use. No problems detected thus far.

Hello ! I am trying to build this kind of setup for my first time. I'd like to make a video game emulator station using Retropie, the RPI 3 and the 7" touch screen with a battery so I can play outside.

But I also want to know if I can plug it on my screen using HDMI, so it'd be a mix between portable and desk console.

Any advice on where/what to buy ?

Also, how did you manage with your battery ? Did you let it outside or you found a way to build a little something attached to your screen case ?

Thanks a lot, I'm quite nervous about this project so a little help would be really appreciated ^^

The problem is current and voltage. As the current drawn by the Raspi increases, it causes a voltage drop across the USB cable between the PSU and the Pi. The higher the current drawn, the lower the voltage reaching the Pi. The 'Universal' PSU overcomes this problem by increasing the supply voltage a little above 5V (but, within the rated Pi spec.) and by using heavier copper conductors in its connecting cable to reduce the voltage drop at higher currents. This is the only PSU that I now use. The Pi 3 has WiFi enabled, out of the box, and this is often sufficient to cause problems with standard 5V PSUs and USB 'charger' cables even when using 0.5 metre cable lengths.

I am successfully running a Pi3, a GeChic, 1920 x 1080, USB powered 15" monitor, a Focusrite 2i4 audio interface providing 50v phantom power to condenser microphones and a wireless keyboard and mouse. The screen, audio interface and keyboard/mouse dongle are plugged into the Pi3 USB ports. The power comes from a RavPower RP-PB13 (14,000mAh) phone charger. I connect to a BlueTooth portable speaker or a mains powered amp and a pair of studio monitors using the Pi 3's built-in BlueTooth capability except when using the Focusrite for monitoring (via headphones, for portability).

Even with the coiled leads supplied with the RavPower, the multi-coloured square low voltage warning was usually present. The answer is to use 10cm charger USB cables (yes, 10cm is not a misprint). The square appears briefly during boot and when the Focusrite is plugged in, but there are no further problems. I might be able to lose even those by connecting the screen via a powered USB Hub supplied from the second RavPower USB outlet (I have built special cables to supply 5v from USB ports to a range of power plugs), but this is not worth the effort.

If you want to use standard mains 5v PSUs (with a USB socket rather than a captive cable) you might find that a 10cm cable will do the job. Of course, you will need an extension mains lead to get the socket and PSU within 10cm of the Pi.