Raspberry Pi and Existing Accenta Gen 4 Alarm

I have found a Service Manual that may be appropriate for your panel: http://www.wavertreeelec.co.uk/skin/frontend/target/target/pdfs/Optima_Compact_Accenta_Panels.pdf

It would seem from reading the manual that there are 5 active-low outputs switched between 0 and 13V depending on the status of the panel, namely:

• FIRE: The fire output operates when the fire zone is triggered.
• PA: The PA output operates when a PA alarm is triggered or a duress code is used.
• INT: The intruder output is operated when an intruder condition is triggered whilst the system is set.
• SET: The Set output operates whenever the system becomes set and is used to indicate opening and closing.
• ABORT: Operates if the panel is unset within 90 seconds of the alarm condition starting. It is cleared when the panel is reset by the user or engineer.

Connecting to this interface could be achieved to 5 GPIOs of the Raspberry Pi (NOT DIRECTLY - RPi's don't like 13V on the GPIO header.)

It seems that interfacing with individual PIRs cant be achieved with this connector, and while you could in theory connect to the zone inputs for monitoring purposes, the panel may not appreciate the interference.

Also worth noting is wether the panel is maintained under a service contract with a third party company. Modifying the panel wiring is very likely to upset such a company.

Thanks Paul!

How would you recommend connecting those outputs to the PI?  I've got some knowledge with electronics but not enough to figure out how to connect it to the PI.

Interesting thoughts about tapping in to the zone inputs, how would I go about doing this?  The PIRs I use are Active8 and a couple of door contacts.

There's no service agreements as the alarm was installed by myself and my father.

You could use a simple voltage divider to bring the voltage down: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Voltage_divider

Cheers!

So I've found exactly what i was looking for: https://github.com/sidb/PiAlarm/blob/master/README.md

BUT would you be able to help me convert that image in to a shopping list? and help to make sense of the connection on the breadboard?

The photo on that page should give you a good idea about the wiring. It is essentially the same as the schematic above. (Please note the board in the photo has been turned upside down. Flip it through 180º and it should make a whole lot more sense.

Thanks for the tip!

Sorry for being such a pain...could you point me to the correct 2k2, 330r and the isolators

Essentially you're looking at:

http://uk.farnell.com/fairchild-semiconductor/h11l1m/optocoupler-schimitt-trigger-7/dp/1021127

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mcmf0w4ff2201a50/metal-film-resistor-2-2kohm-250mw/dp/1126954

http://uk.farnell.com/multicomp/mf25-330r/resistor-330r-0-25w-1/dp/9341730

The board used is one of these:http://www.adafruit.com/products/571

Though you can use a board like this and cut the tracks where necessary

Thanks Paul!! Will keep me busy on the weekend!

Could I do something similar to tap in to the zones?

I'm not sure. Seems feasible. I'll do some research and get back to you.

much appreciated!