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Blog Raspberry Pi 3 Cooling / Heat Sink Ideas
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  • Author Author: shabaz
  • Date Created: 3 Mar 2016 5:03 AM Date Created
  • Views 22199 views
  • Likes 20 likes
  • Comments 142 comments
  • pi 3
  • heatsink
  • rpibeginner
  • heat_sink
  • rpi3
  • raspberry_pi
  • heat sink
  • rpi
  • raspberry_pi_projects
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Raspberry Pi 3 Cooling / Heat Sink Ideas

shabaz
shabaz
3 Mar 2016

Note: This is part 1 of a 2-part post. For part 2, click here: Raspberry Pi 3 Dynamic Current Consumption, Power and Temperature Tests

To see an implementation using a heat pipe, see the Outdoor Pi 3 Image Recognition Security Camera project (aka HAL-CAM 9001)

image

Inspired by Christopher's cstanton  Raspberry Pi Operating Temperature report (with thermal photos from Gareth Halfacree) regarding the heat dissipated by the Broadcom chip on the Raspberry Pi 3, and the discussion with bwelsby we started searching around for ways to keep the Pi cool.

Ceramic heat sinks have an innovative structure (vias or micro-pores) which allow a heightened thermal conductivity compared to traditional aluminium heat sinks. They also can have the advantage that they won't affect radio frequency (RF) communications as much, when positioned close to the wireless antenna that is present on the Pi 3.

Furthermore, ceramic heat sinks are not electrically conductive and therefore there is no risk of accidentally shorting something on the Pi.

Back-of-the-envelope calculations (we don't have all parameters since we don't have a copy of the Broadcom datasheet to examine the device operating conditions in detail, nor a copy of the schematic to examine if we can measure device power consumption isolated from the remainder circuitry) suggests that a heat sink with thermal resistance of around 10 degrees C/W might be effective to keep the Broadcom chip's internal temperature below 120 degrees C when the ambient temperature is below around 40 degrees C. These are guesstimates until practical measurements have been taken.

image

Armed with this information, I searched for a suitable sized heat sink and I found a cheap aluminium one. However bwelsby and cstanton suggested that there may be issues with the heatsink getting in the way of connected HAT boards on top of the Pi, and Brian suggested examining ceramic heatsinks.

In summary, I think these parts may be suitable although measurements still need to be done:

22x22x2.5mm MPC222225T22x22x2.5mm MPC222225T

15x15x2.5mm MPC151525T15x15x2.5mm MPC151525T

(Optional) 20x20x10mm 5V DC fan MC33873(Optional) 20x20x10mm 5V DC fan MC33873

(EDIT: after some discussions below, it looks like this Sunon 'DR-MagLev' design fanSunon 'DR-MagLev' design fan is a far better choice, it is 25x25x10mm, quieter, higher throughput, and more efficient with overall lower power consumption. There is also a 25x25mm finger guard25x25mm finger guard).

 

The Broadcom chip is about 14x14mm in size, and ceramic heat sinks do exist in approximately that size. However it is possible to attach a larger heat sink if desired.

The photo below shows the parts that were examined. All of these ceramic heat sinks come with adhesive tape on the underside; the protective tape is removed and the heat sink will stick to the top of the integrated circuit.

The photo at the top of the blog post shows the largest 22x22mm ceramic heatsink.

image

The photo below shows a heat sink closer to the size of the Broadcom chip, 15x15mm. It also shows a 10x10mm heat sink on top of the USB hub/Ethernet controller chip, however this is really not needed. It doesn't get very hot according to the thermal photos in the previous blog post.

image

The memory chip on the underside gets hot too. If desired, the 15x15mm heat sink could  be attached there too. The 22x22mm one is too large for that location due to nearby components (the memory chip has a lower height than the Broadcom chip on the top side).

image

So, I plan to attach a 22x22mm part to the Broadcom chip on the top of the board, and possibly a 15x15mm heat sink to the memory chip on the underside. I don't think a fan will be needed unless a very small enclosure with no natural ventilation was used, or if the Pi was in a very warm environment.

In that case, a fan may be an option. I tried the MC33873 fanMC33873 fan and it generates a usable level of air that can be felt from a distance of 10cm or more. However it does generate a small amount of noise too (possibly inaudible if the Pi will be behind other items such as a TV, but I think there is still a risk it could be audible. The voltage could be reduced from 5V to lessen the noise). It could be mounted on the heat sink as shown here although I think a small gap would be good to allow forced air to hit the entire top face of the heat sink. (The red dot on the fan was placed by me so that I could see it spinning). The fan could be secured with epoxy adhesive. The overall height is less than the height of the USB connectors on the Pi 3. The problem with this is that a HAT board cannot be plugged on top if there is a fan in the way.

image

A very nice solution would have been to put the fan on the side (to the left side of the photo above) so that the fan could blast air across the entire top face, and the underside of the board. However the display connector (the long white thing on the edge of the board in the photo above) is in the way and would block the flow of air which is extremely unfortunate. The Pi 3 wasn't designed with air flow in mind : ( However it might be possible with some 3D-printed duct design to achieve something that could work.

 

To summarize, some heat sinking ideas have been suggested however it is for further examination to see how well they perform. It will be good to see what solutions people come up with over time.

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Top Comments

  • bwelsby
    bwelsby over 10 years ago in reply to shabaz +6
    I received the ceramic heatsinks today but not the fans they didn't get shipped till today. I have quickly designed a small case to 3D print as a test, and I shall make a dummy HAT too. I can then play…
  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago +5
    There is a 1-page article on the heat topic in magpi: So it looks like the fix they have implemented is more aggressive throttling through software changes. The wording is interesting in places.. it is…
  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago in reply to clem57 +4
    Hi! They are the real thing, they actually look like that. They look like school erasers don't they ; ) I remembered I had these heat sinks around from another project. Might try getting some measurements…
  • bwelsby
    bwelsby over 10 years ago

    I have just added the "with HAT" test results here Raspberry Pi 3 temperature and cooling testing Part 2 with a HAT tests.  With a low level (5mm above RPi PCB) dummy HAT the increase in running temperature was approximately 10'C. The Fan and Heatsink combo still kept the temp well below 80'C and the heatsink  alone still provided a significant delay in reaching this.

     

    Brian

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  • clem57
    clem57 over 10 years ago in reply to bwelsby

    If you wish to know what PDM is like I did https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pulse-density_modulation

    Clem

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  • bwelsby
    bwelsby over 10 years ago in reply to shabaz

    The PWM was an issue with the increased noise and yes a small inductor would probably help so anyway I changed my fan control from PWM to PDM and that has cured the problem. As you say the fans are quiet in free air so I am also looking at alternative ways of mounting which may help.

     

    Like your duct design, interested to see how effective it is coupled with reduced fan speeds.

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago in reply to bwelsby

    Here is a duct design, I only had 12mm plastic otherwise it would have benefited from a higher lip at one end to capture more air from the fan.

    So instead I might use some tape to create an angled interface between the fan and the duct.

     

    image

    This is what it looks like sitting on the Pi 3 (would need to be clipped/taped or glued in place):

    image

    It is not possible to use one screw hole with this design, it covers it : ( So with this design, that reduces the [practically] usable holes on the Pi down to 2 again (the one near the antenna shouldn't have a metal screw).

    Also I will probably drill a tiny hole at the top for the thermistor wires.

    (The design above is free for use by individuals or education, for non-commercial use only, in case anyone wants to replicate it).

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  • shabaz
    shabaz over 10 years ago in reply to bwelsby

    Hi Brian,

     

    I think it is likely due to the PWM. One thing worth trying is putting a small inductor in series with the motor, in case that helps smooth it out and reduce the noise. Usually small motors benefit from this when PWM'd.

    I just tried mine with a DC supply, and the noise does reduce, and at 1.5V it is very low, and at 2V is quite low too. Also the good thing is that the fan does start up at these low voltages, although it may be better to begin at a high speed and then reduce.

    So, perhaps a better way is to use an adjustable DC-DC converter to drive the motor : (

     

    I did a listening comparison between the 20mm fan and the 25mm one. To be honest, to me the amplitude sounds about the same. However, the small one has a slightly higher frequency, so could be a bit more irritating. All round the 25mm one is a better choice because of more air flow too.

    There is a much quieter fan in the Farnell catalogue, but it is twice the price, and becomes excessive in comparison to the cost of the Pi.

     

    Also, I too noticed that in free air the fans are quiet, but placed against a surface (I placed  it against a hardback book) there is more noise. I think it does need some damping when mounting it : (

     

    Anyway, I've finished making a duct type thing, I'll post up details shortly. Not tested yet, it may under-perform. There just isn't much we can do with the annoying display flay flex connector in the way - silly placement.

    The heat pipe and a large heat sink might be another attractive option if you really want to have no noise. But I think we're on a good track with the fan, it is a compact solution, once the kinks with noise etc are

    worked out.

     

    Also I've still not decided how to make the enclosure, I might just go for an open design on a block of wood.

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