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Ask an Expert Forum Want to replace resistors myself, but need an advice
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Want to replace resistors myself, but need an advice

vladnech
vladnech over 5 years ago

Hi guys

 

It has been a long time since I soldered something, but with COVID-19 decided to dust off my knowledge about electronics.

My air-fryer Philips XXL (5 years old) stopped to switched on (after I felt the smell of something burnt out).

I found resistors got burnt - see pictures

.

I need your help what Om and W value of those ones?

Looks like they have 4 bands: Orange, Black, Black, Gold, which is 30 Om.

Not sure whether it is correct. Plus, not sure how to find W.

 

Thanks in advance for your help,

Vlad

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Top Replies

  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 5 years ago +4
    Hi Vlad, I agree with Jan that the black capacitor near the transformer looks like it has over heated and is probably damaged. If you have a meter it would not hurt to measure the resistance of the heat…
  • dougw
    dougw over 5 years ago +3
    The power rating can usually be deduced from the physical size. These look to be about 1W. but I'm not sure from the picture exactly how big they are. . They don't look burned enough to be smelling burnt…
  • Jan Cumps
    Jan Cumps over 5 years ago in reply to vladnech +3
    L1 is an inductor. It indeed looks like there's a blowhole in the IC. For the glue-like compound: has something melted above the IC and dripped down on the IC?
Parents
  • vladnech
    vladnech over 5 years ago

    Hi guys

     

    Thanks a lot for your time - really appreciate it.

     

    I have done pictures to identify nominals (sorry for the quality - I did it using USB ear camera image ) and video (to show all landscape).

    Maybe it will help to bottom out the issue.

    1. Capacitor (C6)

    image

    image

    2. Brown/red resistor (L1)

    image

    image

    3. Resistor R1

    image

    4. Resistor R12

    image

     

    IC and other components are on the video (Google Drive publicly available video): https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fJ8EYyfmIklSo9xOCAaim1El4aIWuVje/view?usp=sharing (IE or Edge can ask you to download the file - 154Mb)

     

    Also, I found the following forum (link was moderated, sorry), where guys discussed a similar issue, they also identified:

    1. C6 - 10uF 50V

    2. L1 - 22 Om. Maybe 3W

    3. R1 - 33 Om 5% 3W

    4. R12 - 33 Om 5% 3W

    Not sure it is valid.

     

    Plus, in my video, I found the IC is covered with glue or something, but maybe something has blown out and covered it with that substance?

     

    Thanks again for your help,

    Vlad

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 5 years ago in reply to vladnech

    Hi Vlad,

     

    The Viper 16LN is an AC to DC switching converter and when it failed it likely took out the other components.

     

    John

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 5 years ago in reply to vladnech

    Hi Vlad,

     

    The Viper 16LN is an AC to DC switching converter and when it failed it likely took out the other components.

     

    John

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  • vladnech
    vladnech over 5 years ago in reply to jw0752

    Hi John

     

    Does it mean it is better to replace PSU circuit - not to do individual components replacement?

     

    Thanks,

    Vlad

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  • jw0752
    jw0752 over 5 years ago in reply to vladnech

    Hi Vlad,

     

    That depends on you, your electronic skill level, and how comfortable you are with the cost versus risk. I know the feeling of accomplishment you will have if you do replace the parts and ultimately repair the board if worth a lot too. I hope you keep posting as you go along as we are all interested in your success.

     

    John

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