POWER FOR SOLENOID VALVE

Solenoids are inductors. There is a holding current (power) and inrush current.

The power supply needs to match the required voltage of the solenoid, provide the holding current, and also stay reasonably stiff to maintain voltage during short inrush current.

It depends on the solenoid inrush current whether the 36w power source has enough power to survive turning on. A capacitor across the power supply can help provide extra energy during the inrush when the solenoid is turned on.

Holding current is actually higher than initial current for a solenoid, since the solenoid appears like an inductor. It's not the same as (say) a DC motor, which will have a higher initial (inrush) current (unless it's stalled).

Alright. Well note kmikemoo . I get your point.

  This is voltage before attach the solenoid valve coil.

 This is voltage after attach the solenoid valve coil

During this situation, the Solenoid Valve can't be close. So what is the issue?

the issue is that you are using 10% of the rated voltage of the solenoid. the voltage drops because the solenoid is a very big load for your power supply because it is specified to work with 10 times the voltage you are using

So, we need at least 230V to trigger the solenoid valve, and the load for power supply also specified with 230V?

It really sounds like you should get a qualified electrician involved to look at the whole thing, not just the solenoid.  If you can’t grasp that 230v is required to drive it in spite of the label you really ought not to be working with that voltage level.  It can kill you as quick as, or anyone who looks at it in future if it isn’t installed properly.

I see, well noted. about the solenoid valve when it comes to trigger the signal we have test by using our own converter and it can function to trigger. But when use the power source the valve not function to trigger close. Can use advise how the best way to troubleshoot this issue?

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RE: POWER FOR SOLENOID VALVE

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This is the issue regarding valve not trigger to close.

Anyone can help advise me to solve this issue?

For this problem, it's best to call in a professional, let them check out your electrical system design, and get someone qualified to install a replacement if needed. It's not even a majorly expensive part, but that alone no longer seems to be the entire issue; you may also have system or design related problems, so it's best to get an expert to check it all out.

For this problem, it's best to call in a professional, let them check out your electrical system design, and get someone qualified to install a replacement if needed. It's not even a majorly expensive part, but that alone no longer seems to be the entire issue; you may also have system or design related problems, so it's best to get an expert to check it all out.