goal for 2023: use a conical solder tip and enjoy it

I've been tempted by this thread to try a chisel tip.  Up to this point, I've only had conical.  My favorite one is the slightly offset tip (900M-T-IS).

Seems that my post convinced more people to abandon conical than to learn it 

It's seen a lot in videos from (say) Adafruit etc. Wrong though! (I mean if they are going to teach, they may as well try to do it properly, since it's little effort).

Also depends if the cut is to be coated afterwards or not.

https://workmanship.nasa.gov/lib/insp/2%20books/frameset.html

I think it is still cut first, i.e. this was a scenario where the soldering didn't cover the top of the joint despite it being cut beforehand. Not sure! 

I guess this shows it must be a chemical reason, e.g. corrosion.

I have an opinion®:

the cut end of a lead is exactly the same material as all the rest of the lead. And that's exposed too.

Yes, I was referring to the base metal sealing there.

Strange that they let that one through though given some of the other stuff.

I think this is the one you are after about cutting stress

I've not read the NASA standards, but it would be surprising if they allow component leads to be snipped on a PCB after the component is soldered. (merely from what I observed in mil-product hand assembly).  I know nothing about metallurgy/chemistry, so I'm speculating it is shock and corrosion related. But the conformal coating comment does seem to align with the corrosion theory (at the junction of the exposed copper/plating/solder perhaps, but I have no idea). 

Here is what is done in avionics: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vynb_HdEIDU . Whatever you do currently, it will not be good enough for these standards. (and yes, the cut before soldering)

You could be right, but instinctively if I see exposed copper on the end of a component, I tend to solder over it. Just habit.

'Properly' kind of depends on which standards you are working to though.

Also it doesn't help that some of those standards are expensive to get hold of and certification even more expensive...

I saw this video series today too :). When Chris asked me to point to the Nasa videos I saw, I tried to find them back, but couldn't (maybe copyright issues?). But I found these and enjoyed watching them. There's one that takes 6 minutes to solder 1 wire into 1 connector pin <3.

Edit:
this one: https://youtu.be/yzkuWORme2w
and you have to watch this one first :) : https://youtu.be/BiVkI4IooH4

I saw this video series today too :). When Chris asked me to point to the Nasa videos I saw, I tried to find them back, but couldn't (maybe copyright issues?). But I found these and enjoyed watching them. There's one that takes 6 minutes to solder 1 wire into 1 connector pin <3.

Edit:
this one: https://youtu.be/yzkuWORme2w
and you have to watch this one first :) : https://youtu.be/BiVkI4IooH4

The video I had linked to takes about 12 minutes for one resistor. The amount of cleaning they do is kind of excessive, but the I think in avionics (or anything else where lives depend on it) you just do not take chances. This also explains why such devices are quite expensive - they just live up to a different standard that what I do at home...

It might be out of date now though... 

"NASA has adopted IPC J-STD-001FS for all Programs and Projects, effective on October 17, 2011.  The NASA standards for soldering, NASA-STD-8739.2 and NASA-STD-8739.3, are cancelled as of October 17, 2011."

https://nepp.nasa.gov/index.cfm/22093

See you in an hour (of powerpoint. no soldering action)

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RE: goal for 2023: use a conical solder tip and enjoy it

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Enjoy... but haven't you skipped over NASA-STD-8739.x to IPC J-STD-001E ?

no cheating now... 

I just watched the video. I'm surprised, personally I wouldn't say that my normal soldering practice is all that different, for working at a good speed. I don't think I deviate too much. I don't pre-tin, presumably it is easy for them because they have the solder bath. (I pre-tin stripped wire though, out of habit, regardless if it is solid core or stranded). I eyeball the length of the component leads instead of using that neat trick with the looped component wire, but I trim first just like they do. I form the component leads with pliers, instead of the red tool he used in the video. I certainly don't exceed 30 degrees on PCBs either, because I like the wires mostly straight, instead of combed down (I use blu-tack/putty to temporarily hold the component). (On perfboard when prototyping I will bend and use the component leads as if they were PCB tracks, but that's different). And always clean the board of flux, with this brush (it's very stiff, which works great on PCBs).