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Raspberry Pi 4 Experimental Resin 3D Printer -- Episode 414

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Tiny resin based 3D printers may be all the rage now, but size matter sometimes, and how these printers operate does not scale up well. Clem has an Idea to circumvent these technical limitations with a ground breaking giant 4k Resin 3D printer! Utilizing 2 Raspberry Pis (4 & 3B+) he sets out to prove that FEP foil can be replaced with a specialized liquid, making the LCD-masking technique viable for large format 3D printers!

Supplemental Content:

  • A lot of parts for the mechanics were salvaged from this project: Episode 359: Make Your Own CNC Pyrography Wood Burner
  • The heatsinks were covered in-depth in this video:  Episode 399: Candle-Powered Robot
  • The main board for the giant 3D printer is the MAYER MOVES Dev Kit showcased in this episode: Episode 410: MacPro G5 Cheese Grater with Raspberry Pi 4
  • Click here to get the complete MAYER MOVES Motor Control Dev Kit

Bill of Material:

Product Name Manufacturer Quantity Buy Kit
Raspberry pi 4B Raspberry-PI 1 Buy Now
Raspberry p3B /3B+ Raspberry-PI 1 Buy Now
PRO SIGNAL Audio / Video Cable Assembly, HDMI A Plug to Micro HDMI D Plug, 6.6 ft, 2 m, Black PRO SIGNAL 1 Buy Now
CARLO GAVAZZI Solid State Relay, SPST-NO, 25 A, 280 VAC, Panel, Screw, Zero Crossing CARLO GAVAZZI 1 Buy Now
RASPBERRY-PI Daughter Board, Raspberry Pi 7" Touch Screen Display, 10 Finger Capacitive Touch RASPBERRY-PI 1 Buy Now
MEAN WELL AC/DC Enclosed Power Supply (PSU), ITE, 1 Outputs, 100.8 W, 36 V, 2.8 A MEAN WELL 1 Buy Now
MEAN WELL AC/DC Enclosed Power Supply (PSU), ITE, 1 Outputs, 50.4 W, 12 V, 4.2 A MEAN WELL 1 Buy Now
MULTICOMP Axial Fan, 12 V, DC, 60 mm, 33.05 dBA, 18.84 cu.ft/min MULTICOMP 3 Buy Now
MEAN WELL AC/DC Enclosed Power Supply (PSU), ITE, 1 Outputs, 15 W, 5 V, 3 A MEAN WELL 2 Buy Now
TRINAMIC Evaluation Board, TMC2209 SilentStepStick, 2-Phase Motor Driver TRINAMIC 1 Buy Now
NANOTEC Stepper Motor, High Torque, DC, 0.5 N-m, 1.8 A, Two Phase, 1.75 ohm, 3.3 mH NANOTEC 1 Buy Now
OMRON Microswitch, Snap Action, Hinge Roller Lever, SPDT, Solder, 5 A OMRON 1 Buy Now

 

Additional Parts:

Product Name

4k instore Display Monitor 28“

Aluminium Extrusion for the Frame

PMMA-XT for the Vat

PMMA/Acrylic for the Case

3D printing filament for all the printed parts

UV LEDs  and heatsinks

Attachments:
ResinPrinter_Resources.zip
image
Rasperry Pi4 Resin 3d Experimental Printer

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Top Comments

  • mayermakes
    mayermakes over 5 years ago +5
    If you have any questions I'll be happy to answer them here. Clarification on the Firmware: NanoDLP is FREE(as in cost) , but it is not open source. You can use share and distribute it freely even comercially…
  • pumpernickel
    pumpernickel over 5 years ago +3
    Hello! I wrote some ideas about a large format MSLA printer in the youtube comments and was asked to post em here. I've thought about three ways, each with their advantages and disadvantages: 1. Easiest…
  • deadbe3f
    deadbe3f over 5 years ago +3
    Hi Clem, I found your youtube video very interesting, I am wondering why not use the low refractive index substrate with a silicone applied coating? lots of laser resin folks are using acrylic like vats…
  • daveyg
    daveyg over 5 years ago in reply to celcius1

    I think you guys are overthinking the tilting bed/vat design I am envisioning. I'm thinking of a hinge, with a hinge pin of drill rod (small diameter precision polished shaft) allowing a machined aluminum hinge body, with a reamed hinge hole .0005" larger than pin diameter, and a light torsion coil spring, to aid in return to beginning position, against a set of adjustable stops, opposite the hinge, on the corners of the vat. This will allow the bed/vat to tilt, and peel the FEP from one side, when the Z raises up, it will peel off, starting from the hinge side, as it cannot raise up, with a stop allowing the vat to only raise a certain amount on the movable side. The MOAI printer seems to use a tilting vat, where the right side (looking at the printer from the front) is hinged, and the left side tilts down, likely on a very small ball screw, then raises back up to the starting location, I think I can mimic this action without the use of any additional electronics, just using the 'sticktion' (my made up word for the quantitative amount that cured resin sticks to FEP) and the torsion spring to return to zero, I would just need to set the retract height with each layer to allow the Z axis to travel slightly more than the travel allowed by the vat stops.

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  • mayermakes
    mayermakes over 5 years ago in reply to celcius1

    Pretty much all resins I encountered stick to Glas and most plastics, there are silicones used for laser based printers.

    Those don't work as well with msla anecdotally.

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  • celcius1
    celcius1 over 5 years ago in reply to mayermakes

    Your welcome mate.

     

    Just trying to shoot a thought across, the resins used in SLA printers, do they stick to glass?  If not have you investigated using a vat with a glass base?

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  • celcius1
    celcius1 over 5 years ago in reply to daveyg

    In regards to a tilting bed, you could use a titling platform mounted on two ball screws, as ball screws depending on the quality have an accuracy of up too .001mm or 1um, perfect for resin printing, the reasoning for two, one at each end, you start to lift one screw until a desired angle is achieved, then start the other screw, but I don't believe support is available in the firmware to do this at this time,  And to keep track of the ball screw position, you could fit rotary encoders or, magnetic encoders with a diametrically magnetised magnet feeding a AS5047D https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/588/AS5047D_DS000394_2-00-347336.pdf  magnetic encoder which runs over SPI, this encoder has an error of +/- 0.8 degrees, but if you use a calibration routine you can get this error down too +/- 0.1 degrees.  But Z screw accuracy is critical with a resin printer.

     

    Clem, have you look at investigating a feedback for positional accuracy on your V2 printer?  If not the above mentioned encoder might be worth investigating.

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  • mayermakes
    mayermakes over 5 years ago in reply to celcius1

    thanks for the update, a very handy chart!

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  • mayermakes
    mayermakes over 5 years ago in reply to daveyg

    Thank you very much for your comment.

    the size of my printer was mostly determinded by what screen was availbale for a given pricepoint and within time.
    I agree that 4k is not needed for decent qualitiy in structural parts.
    My main focus was to avoid FEP completelly but I'm certain that your approach with FEP on a bigger screen should be workable, but you might be limited wit hsprint spoeed as the time it takes for the fep to peel increases with larger diameters siginificantly. (basically stretch to Area ratio).
    the tilting Bed might be a godo approach to ensure even sufraces, but keep in mind that you need to build a very precise sy<stem as the vat has to end upü exactly at the right position after every tilt. (take a look at the SL1 designg by prusa3D)

    Iḿ already working on V2 of my printer. this time it is much smaller (still a bit bigger than the cheap printers onthe market) but it omits FEP completelly< and might be a bit faster if eveery thing works out as planned. Of course there wil lbe a video about it.

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  • daveyg
    daveyg over 5 years ago

    Found this video on youtube and you have inspired me to try to merge parts of your design with another design, the FDM-printed SLA-printer, by youtuber Tinkering On Steroids. I would like to create my own SLA printer, but the issue with TOS' design is that the cost to build is equal to, or higher than, the cost to build a far larger printer like yours. I have sourced a used 17" lcd pc monitor for nearly nothing, and although the resolution is only 1280x1024, I think it will work quite well for my needs, I do not require perfectly smooth prints, however I prefer the versatility of SLA parts as far as strength goes, compared to the often very weak FDM parts I am used to. I also though want more build volume than the 5.5" screens can provide, so for this I think the 17" monitor will do nicely, especially considering it is nearly square in dimension, I think I will make the vertical travel 300mm, to make the total build volume approximately 250x220x300. However I intend to stray from your design and use FEP film, and a tilting vat, similar to the tiny SLA models of printer. What do you think?

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  • celcius1
    celcius1 over 5 years ago in reply to mayermakes

    If you want I can speak to my local supplier, and see if they can source the index matching gel, and get back to you with a price.

     

    My contact at the supplier is always willing to help me out with fibre optic's as he owes me a favour or two

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  • mayermakes
    mayermakes over 5 years ago in reply to celcius1

    I'm always happy about comments on older posts as it keeps them relevant and I often go back to those projects.

    You are right!

    I have heard of such gels before but no way to source them it didn't even seem that our local Fibre companies use it.

     

    I'm currently working on the version. Two of this 3d printer and have some ideas that might eliminate the need for a specialized liquid.

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  • celcius1
    celcius1 over 5 years ago

    Hi Clem,

     

    Sorry for posting in an older project of yours, but whilst I was posting on your latest project I had a light bulb moment, as I do work with Telecommunications in my day job, I recently did some fibre optic work for a few clients and used field terminated connectors, sorry for the long intro but I'm getting to the point, these field terminated connectors use an INDEX MATCHING GEL so to match the glass fibre to the polished glass in the connector.

     

    So the idea I have is, if you can source the index matching gel used in field terminated fibre optic SC or SC-A connectors, its designed to have the same index as glass, and being a gel, its denser than the resin, and the index gel only needs to be a thin layer.

     

    So that would be the best stuff to use.  But I don't know why I did not think of it before, but thanks to having a recent client getting fibre optic work done, it came to mind again.  But the difficult part is sourcing the index matching gel.

     

    Regards
    Paul

     

    Edit: did a quick search and found this https://www.fiberinstrumentsales.com/fis-matching-gel-4-oz.html

    and this https://www.thorlabs.com/newgrouppage9.cfm?objectgroup_id=354

    and this TechOptics - Index Matching Gels

    and this https://www.newport.com/f/index-matching-fluid

     

    even found thisIndex Matching Materials

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