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  • Author Author: tariq.ahmad
  • Date Created: 30 Sep 2019 8:47 PM Date Created
  • Last Updated Last Updated: 4 Oct 2019 7:24 AM
  • Views 9125 views
  • Likes 17 likes
  • Comments 27 comments

Raspberry Pi 4 Experimental Resin 3D Printer -- Episode 414

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Tiny resin based 3D printers may be all the rage now, but size matter sometimes, and how these printers operate does not scale up well. Clem has an Idea to circumvent these technical limitations with a ground breaking giant 4k Resin 3D printer! Utilizing 2 Raspberry Pis (4 & 3B+) he sets out to prove that FEP foil can be replaced with a specialized liquid, making the LCD-masking technique viable for large format 3D printers!

Supplemental Content:

  • A lot of parts for the mechanics were salvaged from this project: Episode 359: Make Your Own CNC Pyrography Wood Burner
  • The heatsinks were covered in-depth in this video:  Episode 399: Candle-Powered Robot
  • The main board for the giant 3D printer is the MAYER MOVES Dev Kit showcased in this episode: Episode 410: MacPro G5 Cheese Grater with Raspberry Pi 4
  • Click here to get the complete MAYER MOVES Motor Control Dev Kit

Bill of Material:

Product Name Manufacturer Quantity Buy Kit
Raspberry pi 4B Raspberry-PI 1 Buy Now
Raspberry p3B /3B+ Raspberry-PI 1 Buy Now
PRO SIGNAL Audio / Video Cable Assembly, HDMI A Plug to Micro HDMI D Plug, 6.6 ft, 2 m, Black PRO SIGNAL 1 Buy Now
CARLO GAVAZZI Solid State Relay, SPST-NO, 25 A, 280 VAC, Panel, Screw, Zero Crossing CARLO GAVAZZI 1 Buy Now
RASPBERRY-PI Daughter Board, Raspberry Pi 7" Touch Screen Display, 10 Finger Capacitive Touch RASPBERRY-PI 1 Buy Now
MEAN WELL AC/DC Enclosed Power Supply (PSU), ITE, 1 Outputs, 100.8 W, 36 V, 2.8 A MEAN WELL 1 Buy Now
MEAN WELL AC/DC Enclosed Power Supply (PSU), ITE, 1 Outputs, 50.4 W, 12 V, 4.2 A MEAN WELL 1 Buy Now
MULTICOMP Axial Fan, 12 V, DC, 60 mm, 33.05 dBA, 18.84 cu.ft/min MULTICOMP 3 Buy Now
MEAN WELL AC/DC Enclosed Power Supply (PSU), ITE, 1 Outputs, 15 W, 5 V, 3 A MEAN WELL 2 Buy Now
TRINAMIC Evaluation Board, TMC2209 SilentStepStick, 2-Phase Motor Driver TRINAMIC 1 Buy Now
NANOTEC Stepper Motor, High Torque, DC, 0.5 N-m, 1.8 A, Two Phase, 1.75 ohm, 3.3 mH NANOTEC 1 Buy Now
OMRON Microswitch, Snap Action, Hinge Roller Lever, SPDT, Solder, 5 A OMRON 1 Buy Now

 

Additional Parts:

Product Name

4k instore Display Monitor 28“

Aluminium Extrusion for the Frame

PMMA-XT for the Vat

PMMA/Acrylic for the Case

3D printing filament for all the printed parts

UV LEDs  and heatsinks

Attachments:
ResinPrinter_Resources.zip
image
Rasperry Pi4 Resin 3d Experimental Printer

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Top Comments

  • mayermakes
    mayermakes over 6 years ago +5
    If you have any questions I'll be happy to answer them here. Clarification on the Firmware: NanoDLP is FREE(as in cost) , but it is not open source. You can use share and distribute it freely even comercially…
  • pumpernickel
    pumpernickel over 6 years ago +3
    Hello! I wrote some ideas about a large format MSLA printer in the youtube comments and was asked to post em here. I've thought about three ways, each with their advantages and disadvantages: 1. Easiest…
  • deadbe3f
    deadbe3f over 5 years ago +3
    Hi Clem, I found your youtube video very interesting, I am wondering why not use the low refractive index substrate with a silicone applied coating? lots of laser resin folks are using acrylic like vats…
Parents
  • gaellafond
    gaellafond over 6 years ago

    That's a clever idea, the resin floats on top of another liquid. That reduce wear and tear on the vat screen. Thank you for experimenting with this technology. That's how things evolves.

     

    I assume the liquid needs time to settle down before starting the print, to produce perfectly flat layers.

     

    1. Do you have to lift the part higher than a layer thickness after each layer? Is the resin able to naturally flow under the cured layer or you need to lift the part higher to ensure the resin cover the entirety of the previously cured layer?
    2. Do you have a "settle down" time delay before each layer or the lifting of the part is slow enough to not disturb the liquid underneath?
    3. Are you able to easily recover unused resin? Does it matter if it get mixed with the liquid underneath? I assume it would separate easily. As long as you reuse it in the same printer with the same separating liquid, it probably doesn't matter if you get some of the separating liquid while recovering the resin...

     

    Sorry, I have so many questions...

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  • mayermakes
    mayermakes over 6 years ago in reply to gaellafond

    Hi, welcome to the community.

    I try to answer these questions, if I'm unclear please ask further and I hope I can clarify it for you.

     

    "I assume the liquid needs time to settle down before starting the print, to produce perfectly flat layers." -- Yes, that is correct, but it does not take that long to settle, it is crucial to avoid shocks or impacts during the curing of a layer. in nanodlp you can set wait times for different steps in the sequence, i just gave it as much time as I coulkd effort in my experiments to make sure the waves have set before proceeding.

     

    1. yes, like on most printers the plate lifts between 1mm and 5mm depending on resin and machine. while FEP based machines need that movement(or a sequence of moves) to peel the layer of the fep and let new resin float under the cured one. the CLEM system uses it to let new resin flow in ,but also let out possibly trapped airbubbles(these are a huge pain currently to deal with). Ic also thought about going down a mm and then up to kind of whash the cured layers in the floating liquid. but did not try that out.

     

    2.yes, and I also reduce the movement speed greatly for the last 2-3mm of the move. it is less about disturbing, more about avoiding to break the surface tension. once the surface is penetrated a blob of resin sinks top the bottom. further advances in the floating liquid may solve that problem. for now the resin is not floating but more like balancing on the surface tension(if that makes sense) also the meniscus at the edge of the vat is kinda helping it stay above, but it also makes it very hard to judge the actual height by vision.

     

    3. yes, but it is not that easy. As mentioned the surface tension has to be kept intact. so I have to be very gentle. what worked was removing the liqiud with a straw/pump/pipette and then dumping the resin in a bottle.

    when reusing it you need to pour it very slowly so only the upermost resin leaves the bottle, there certainly will always be a rest of mixed resin at the bottom. the plastic tubs that i used for my experiment can only be thrown away once resin has come in contact with the bottom. another reason to turn the whole system upside down to make the liquid reservoir hold more liquid and sinking resin would just turn into waste that you'd remove from time to time, not every after print.

     

    Hope that helped! if you have ideas please share them!

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  • mayermakes
    mayermakes over 6 years ago in reply to gaellafond

    Hi, welcome to the community.

    I try to answer these questions, if I'm unclear please ask further and I hope I can clarify it for you.

     

    "I assume the liquid needs time to settle down before starting the print, to produce perfectly flat layers." -- Yes, that is correct, but it does not take that long to settle, it is crucial to avoid shocks or impacts during the curing of a layer. in nanodlp you can set wait times for different steps in the sequence, i just gave it as much time as I coulkd effort in my experiments to make sure the waves have set before proceeding.

     

    1. yes, like on most printers the plate lifts between 1mm and 5mm depending on resin and machine. while FEP based machines need that movement(or a sequence of moves) to peel the layer of the fep and let new resin float under the cured one. the CLEM system uses it to let new resin flow in ,but also let out possibly trapped airbubbles(these are a huge pain currently to deal with). Ic also thought about going down a mm and then up to kind of whash the cured layers in the floating liquid. but did not try that out.

     

    2.yes, and I also reduce the movement speed greatly for the last 2-3mm of the move. it is less about disturbing, more about avoiding to break the surface tension. once the surface is penetrated a blob of resin sinks top the bottom. further advances in the floating liquid may solve that problem. for now the resin is not floating but more like balancing on the surface tension(if that makes sense) also the meniscus at the edge of the vat is kinda helping it stay above, but it also makes it very hard to judge the actual height by vision.

     

    3. yes, but it is not that easy. As mentioned the surface tension has to be kept intact. so I have to be very gentle. what worked was removing the liqiud with a straw/pump/pipette and then dumping the resin in a bottle.

    when reusing it you need to pour it very slowly so only the upermost resin leaves the bottle, there certainly will always be a rest of mixed resin at the bottom. the plastic tubs that i used for my experiment can only be thrown away once resin has come in contact with the bottom. another reason to turn the whole system upside down to make the liquid reservoir hold more liquid and sinking resin would just turn into waste that you'd remove from time to time, not every after print.

     

    Hope that helped! if you have ideas please share them!

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