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Arduino Forum Arduino and Transistors Question - RE: School Musical Production
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Related

Arduino and Transistors Question - RE: School Musical Production

wallarug
wallarug over 11 years ago

One of the directors has asked me to create a special backdrop for our college musical. This particular backdrop has a particular design (see below) that includes LED strip lighting to give the feel of a 1920s casino sign – similar to what is seen today in Las Vegas.

I  have done up a detailed design for this sign, based off the rough sketch given to me by the director and the dimensions of the backdrop.  On this diagram, the arrangement of the LED strip lighting can be seen.

image

          

The LED Strip lighting that will be bought for this project will be sourced from Jaycar – “Low Cost 5m Flexible Adhesive LED Strip Light – Warm White” (ZD0577).  According to the specifications off Jaycar’s website, these LED lights need 1.1 Amps per metre @ 12 volts.  This means that the longest segments of lights need 1.1 * 1.5 = 1.65 Amps of power (rounded up by 20% for safety: 2.0 Amps @ 12 volts).

 

This would not be an issue if I was just turning these LED Strips on and off with mains power BUT I want to control these LEDs via an Arduino, so that they can do fancy things like flash and chase.  That means that I would need a circuit to control these lights with an Arduino so that everything remains safe and does not blow up.

I have come up with this circuit (below) using a couple of NPN transistors and two power supplies.  In the diagram below, I am aware that the transistor pinouts are EBC.  The ones I am going to buy have a pinout of BCE.

 

image

 

The only problem with this is that I have very little understanding of transistor circuits.  What this circuit has to be able to do is:

  • Using the smallest amount of current from the Arduino (at 5 volts) or a Raspberry Pi (3v3 volts), turn on the circuit to allow the 12 volts that powers the LED strip lighting to flow.

 

I was thinking of using either TIP41C NPN Transistors (in a darlington Array) or TIP122 NPN transistors.

 

This circuit will be replicated 8 times over to accommodate for the number of LEDs I am controlling.

 

 

Can anyone help me:

  1. Design a circuit that will work 100% and will be safe (ie: low heat)
    1. This includes base resistance
  1. Confirm which transistors I should be using for this project.

 

Any help will be much appreciated.

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  • Robert Peter Oakes
    Robert Peter Oakes over 11 years ago +1
    Sorry the one I suggested wont work, but this one should http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=ZK8821 10+ current rating and at 0.016ohms it should be good for your needs pdf here http://www.vishay…
  • mcb1
    mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to jw0752 +1
    John If you are referring to this It means that at a gate voltage of 1.6 typ, a current of 250uA will be flowing in the Drain. If you look here, you can see that from 3 to 3.3v will give you enough to…
  • D_Hersey
    D_Hersey over 11 years ago +1
    Solenoid Whapper:
Parents
  • wallarug
    0 wallarug over 11 years ago

    Hey guys!

     

    I have built one sample circuit on the PCB but I have an issue.


    When the wire coming from the Arduino (pin 9) registers 4.95v when it is NOT connected to the board.  When that same wire is connected to my circuit board, it registers 0.9v (from pin 9).


    Any ideas what is causing this?  When I built the exact (when I say exact I mean EXACTLY THE SAME) same circuit on the breadboard it works perfectly.


    I am missing something?

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  • gihu
    0 gihu over 11 years ago in reply to wallarug

    If you are using the transistor... Maybe you missed the resistor between the arduino output the base of the transistor?

     

    Hope that helps,

    Miguel

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  • Problemchild
    0 Problemchild over 11 years ago in reply to wallarug

    Sorry Wallarug wasn't trying to be awful but  bad construction techniques will simply drive you round the twist and if you've copied the breadboard exactly you will be chasing your self until you get past these bits .

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to Problemchild

    I assist with helping students put together an electronic Xmas Tree.

    It involves component insertion and soldering some of whom have had some experience, and some none at all.

     

    In each case we try to show them why their solder joint needs rectification, and how to spot a poor joint before firing it up.

    The end result of all this (and yours) is a reliable, working well and useful piece of electronics.

    In many cases it might work until it is heated and cooled a couple of times, then it only works sometimes.

     

    Hence the reason we are pointing out these problematic areas so that you don't have half a display on opening night.image

     

     

    I'm sure you have learnt a lot from this whole discussion, and this is no more than that ... more learning.

    mark

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  • Problemchild
    0 Problemchild over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    Good point Mark I was avoiding mentioning the inevitable Christmas tree kit trying not to confuse the matter,  but to be fair it's a great excuse to practice basic soldering skills with out the pressure of designing something as well. I have used these with young Nephews and they do indeed like them and get to correct their work as you said...This is the most important thing.. After all those who make no mistakes haven't made anything !

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to Problemchild

    After all those who make no mistakes haven't made anything !

     

    Yep.

    The key is trying to spot your mistakes before others...

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  • Problemchild
    0 Problemchild over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    I'll admit a field of stupid mistakes before now but I keep the photos of them down to a minimum image

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  • wallarug
    0 wallarug over 11 years ago in reply to Problemchild

    Ok guys,

     

    All is working.  I had the multimeter in the wrong position of the circuit.

     

    The work on the PCB is of high quality (according to the individual who built it) and I really any help on this project.

     

    I will get back to you when the board is fully built and tested (correctly image)

     

    Thank you again.  I'll keep you posted.

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to wallarug

    wallrug.

     

    Please tell us you now have a resistor in series with the Arduino pin and the base of the PN100.

     

    Mark

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  • wallarug
    0 wallarug over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    nope. image

     

    I might investigate how to do this by modifying a few cables with a resistor in them.

     

    I ran out of space on PCB for base resistor.  (30 / 6 = 5 outputs) - an extra resistor would mean an extra hole used.

     

    What did seem like a good idea, suggested by one of you, is that you break the connection on the PCB to allow the resistor to be in the circuit (a bit confusing I know).  The only issue with that is it may crack the whole board. 

     

    Any other ideas to get base transistor on PCB without occupying more space and without damaging PCB too much?

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  • dougw
    0 dougw over 11 years ago in reply to wallarug

    Here are a couple of suggestions:

    1) Replace the PN100 with an N channel FET - preferably with a logic level threshold...

    2) Program the 2 states of the CPU "output" pin as follows:

    1. Output ON (LED Off) - configure the pin as an input with internal pull-up resistor - this will turn the NPN transistor on without stressing the CPU pin
    2. Output OFF (LED On) - configure the pin as an output that is always set low (a riskier solution is to leave the pin as an input but with no internal pull-up)
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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to dougw

    wallrug

    I cannot support the suggestion of making it an input, because you can't drive it.

     

    I would remove the two pin jumper you have and insert one end of the resistor in its place. Cut the wire and attach the cut end to the other end of the resistor.

    The second option is add it underneath and use the unused side of the board ie row f - j.

     

    mark

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to dougw

    wallrug

    I cannot support the suggestion of making it an input, because you can't drive it.

     

    I would remove the two pin jumper you have and insert one end of the resistor in its place. Cut the wire and attach the cut end to the other end of the resistor.

    The second option is add it underneath and use the unused side of the board ie row f - j.

     

    mark

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  • dougw
    0 dougw over 11 years ago in reply to mcb1

    I fail to understand why "you can't drive it" - please elaborate.

    If the hardware is left as-is and the "drive" pin is simply programmed as an input instead of an output, then:

    • when digitalWrite(pin, HIGH) is executed the pin gets an internal pull-up resistor which turns on the PN100 - this command is already in the code and does not need to change
    • when digitalWrite(pin, LOW) is executed the pull-up resistor is removed and the pin is "floating" - this does not supply enough current to the PN100 to turn it on, so it turns off.  - this command is also already in the code and does not need to change.

    Nothing in the code or hardware needs to change except one word to change the pin configuration statement from output to input:

    pinMode(pin, INPUT)

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  • mcb1
    0 mcb1 over 11 years ago in reply to dougw

    Douglas

    You can't PWM the pin as wallrug wanted to.

     

    Fix the problem (lack of resistor) rather than add complications. ie KISS

    There are two easy options, which will both work, and allow the code and hardware to perform properly, and with a degree of protection.

     

    Mark

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