Missing components in the library...

Am 15.03.2011 21:51, schrieb badbad2142:

Hello,

Still using the free version and still at newby silly question level.

I am creating (at least trying to) my first PCB board which is going to be a PMW. I started by order all the coponents for m digikey (got an head acke with their web tool..)

 

My coponents are:

• SN74ACC14N: Found it sounds good

• EVU-F3lFL3B14 (potentiometer): even wiht the datacheet I do not find it

 

Sorry, no email adress to send the extended lbr.

• 1N5817 (diode): can not find it...

Use diode.lbr -> device DIODE- with package variant DO41-10 and set the

VALUE to 1N5817.

• BUL704 (NPN) was not able to find it directly but using the number of the datasheet TO-220 whihc was not in the database either I end up finding it using TO220...

Use transistor.lbr -> device *-NPN- with package variant TO220 and set

the VALUE to BUL704.

• 1N914BTR (diode) was not able to find it...

Use diode.lbr -> device DIODE- with package variant DO35-10 and set the

VALUE to 1N914BTR.

And the list is going and going like that on every conponent.

My frustration level in rising, I spent more time looking ofr the components that I will spend on

> creating the board (step that I have note reached yet...)

Plase read

HELP USE (enter)

HELP ADD (enter)

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards

Alfred Zaffran

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Thank you both for your answers.

My mail adress is abessy@free.fr ;-)

I was hoping to spend more time to design the PCB and less on the components selection but I understand that all of them can not exists. It is just hard from the point of view that I am not doing PCB often (in fact it is the first) nor I am working in the electronic field so I am not fluent with the components equivalence (yet).

But I will get at it then...

Thank you again for your answers.

Regards

Alexandre Bessy

On 3/18/2011 1:05 PM, Joerg wrote:

badbad2142 wrote:

>> Thank you Joerg. Quoi comme frommage, un chevre par exemple? le

>> boursin ne me dit rien pour l electronique...

>>

>

I like both goat cheese and Boursin, even when doing electronic design

 

You guys live in paradise when it comes to cheese. The Camembert we can

get in America is a far cry from the cheese I enjoyed in France (where

you take a bite and your breath stops for a couple of seconds). Luckily

we can buy Boursin.

 

>

>> I have been able to create my two first items in my library (thanks

>> to kd7vnn

>> http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-make-a-custom-library-part-in-Eagle-CAD-too/).

>>

>>

>> I undertsand what you say about 50% of the job but when you are just

>> doing it once in a while it is a bruden... but it is ok.

>>

>

That's the same with all software. I just finished my tax preparation

(to give to the CPA). A law had changed which required me to do a minor

database modification here. I struggled for almost an hour to do

something rather simple.

 

>

>> Now that I here one more question: Why do I struggle so much to have

>> a connection between my wire and my components? one time out of two

>> it does not requognize each other... is there a parameter to make

>> that more automatique?

>>

>

As Marius hinted you might have veered slightly off the grid. When doing

normal schematic drafting I suggest to keep "stay on grid" turned on and

not set too fine a grid. It should be left at default or at least make

it coarse enough so you can easily see the grid steps when moving a

part, seeing a "ratchet" motion and not a smooth motion. Otherwise it

can become impossible to see when a wire stopped a fraction of a

millimeter from a component pin. That becomes worse the older you get

 

Our standard is to make sure all library pins are on the 0.100 inch

grid, which is also what your grid should be set to in schematic editor.

The board editor grid and the routing grid are totally seperate and can

be set to whatever you want. Note that the default routing grid of 0.050

is very coarse for modern circuits.

Gary Gofstein wrote:

On 3/18/2011 1:05 PM, Joerg wrote:

>> badbad2142 wrote:

>>> Now that I here one more question: Why do I struggle so much to have

>>> a connection between my wire and my components? one time out of two

>>> it does not requognize each other... is there a parameter to make

>>> that more automatique?

>>>

>>

>> As Marius hinted you might have veered slightly off the grid. When doing

>> normal schematic drafting I suggest to keep "stay on grid" turned on and

>> not set too fine a grid. It should be left at default or at least make

>> it coarse enough so you can easily see the grid steps when moving a

>> part, seeing a "ratchet" motion and not a smooth motion. Otherwise it

>> can become impossible to see when a wire stopped a fraction of a

>> millimeter from a component pin. That becomes worse the older you get

>>

Our standard is to make sure all library pins are on the 0.100 inch

grid, which is also what your grid should be set to in schematic editor.

The board editor grid and the routing grid are totally seperate and can

be set to whatever you want. Note that the default routing grid of 0.050

is very coarse for modern circuits.

Same here, schematics are all 0.1", with very few exceptions. I don't do

layouts myself but guide them a lot. There the grid is nowadays more

like 0.01, sometimes even smaller.

Turning the grid off is only needed when you do fancy artwork with

Eagle. Like birthday banners

--

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Thank you all for your help.

Marius: I will try it right away.

Gary: For the grid being french I went for mm which is may be not wise with some of the existing components of the library.

My circuits are going to be home made (at least the first few to see if I can do something by myself) so coarse is ok for now. I will remember it for next time.

Jorge: I have not tried yet and I will.

Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning the cheese!!! Trust me...

:-)

I keep struggling but sure for no reason I must be doing something wrond becasue a component as simple as a resistor gives me issues:

[IMG]http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/R1_Position2.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/R1_Position1.jpg[/IMG]

As you can see my resistor (that I picked from the library) is oscillating between two posiitons AROUND the grid... I think that I have the snap on the grid function activated (I did Grid On command but not sure if it is the right one). I tried to move the component using the Alt but it does not stop right on the grid and the connection does not create itself. I did not chage the size of the grid...

?

badbad2142 wrote:

I keep struggling but sure for no reason I must be doing something

wrond becasue a component as simple as a resistor gives me issues:

 

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/R1_Position2.jp

g[/IMG]

>

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/R1_Position1.jp

g[/IMG]

As you can see my resistor (that I picked from the library) is

oscillating between two posiitons AROUND the grid... I think that I

have the snap on the grid function activated (I did Grid On command

but not sure if it is the right one). I tried to move the component

using the Alt but it does not stop right on the grid and the

connection does not create itself. I did not chage the size of the

grid... ?

Hold the CTL  key down when you select the resistor. It will snap the

resistor to your 0.1 grid

HTH

Warren

Back on business Thank you Warren.

as an example:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/legnumber.jpg

on this component from the library how do you know if the pin and gates are numbered as in the datasheet of the component?

AB

Am 21.03.2011 02:33, schrieb badbad2142:

as an example:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/legnumber.jpg

 

on this component from the library how do you know if the pin and gates are numbered as in the datasheet of the component?

 

AB

 

SET PAD ON or OFF

or go to Options/Set/Misc menu and look for "Display pad names".

--

Mit freundlichen Gruessen / Best regards

Richard Hammerl

  CadSoft Support -- hotline@cadsoft.de

  FAQ: http://www.cadsoft.de/faq.htm

Thank you Richard.

badbad2142 wrote:

 

Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently

living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning

the cheese!!! Trust me...

 

 

Costco often carries Boursin, the three-packs with different flavors.

Occasionally they have a Camembert that's actually fairly good if left

outside the fridge for an hour or so. But not very often

World Market and Trader Joe's are also good places to hunt for tasty

European cheeses, if you have those store in your area. Bread is another

story and we sometimes bake our own, in the barbecue.

--

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

badbad2142 wrote:

 

Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently

living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning

the cheese!!! Trust me...

 

 

Costco often carries Boursin, the three-packs with different flavors.

Occasionally they have a Camembert that's actually fairly good if left

outside the fridge for an hour or so. But not very often

World Market and Trader Joe's are also good places to hunt for tasty

European cheeses, if you have those store in your area. Bread is another

story and we sometimes bake our own, in the barbecue.

--

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 3/21/2011 11:20 AM, Joerg wrote:

badbad2142 wrote:

 

 

>>

>> Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently

>> living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning

>> the cheese!!! Trust me...

>>

>>

>>

>

Costco often carries Boursin, the three-packs with different flavors.

Occasionally they have a Camembert that's actually fairly good if left

outside the fridge for an hour or so. But not very often

 

World Market and Trader Joe's are also good places to hunt for tasty

European cheeses, if you have those store in your area. Bread is another

story and we sometimes bake our own, in the barbecue.

 

always bake my own.

@OP: lay out your board in mm if you wish ( I often do ),

but keep schematics at 0.100".

Gary Gofstein wrote:

On 3/21/2011 11:20 AM, Joerg wrote:

>> badbad2142 wrote:

>>

>>

>>

>>>

>>> Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently

>>> living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning

>>> the cheese!!! Trust me...

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>

>> Costco often carries Boursin, the three-packs with different flavors.

>> Occasionally they have a Camembert that's actually fairly good if left

>> outside the fridge for an hour or so. But not very often

>>

>> World Market and Trader Joe's are also good places to hunt for tasty

>> European cheeses, if you have those store in your area. Bread is another

>> story and we sometimes bake our own, in the barbecue.

>>

always bake my own.

 

Very good. We also bake our pizza in the barbecue, over charcoal. Most

of the time coals from real firewood. Even when it hails.

@OP: lay out your board in mm if you wish ( I often do ),

but keep schematics at 0.100".

Yes, except for library symbols. In order for the more complicated ones

to look good it is important to switch the grid down to 0.025" or so.

But make sure outlines and pins are on the 0.100" grid.

--

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

"gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam.

Use another domain or send PM.

I also bake my own but never been able to create a real baguette... here in AR we have the Boulevard Bread which is the closest from the real thing and for the cheese the place is called "the French market" :-) the taste are Ok but concerning the prices it is another story.

In my Board when I have launched a "Autorouter SetUp" and do not like the result how do I come back to the previous state? (undo doesn't do anything).

On 3/21/2011 2:20 PM, badbad2142 wrote:

I also bake my own but never been able to create a real baguette... here in AR we have the Boulevard Bread which is the closest from the real thing and for the cheese the place is called "the French market" the taste are Ok but concerning the prices it is another story.

 

In my Board when I have launched a "Autorouter SetUp" and do not like the result how do I come back to the previous state? (undo doesn't do anything).

 

Use the ripup command ( type HELP RIPUP), it can also be restricted to

certain nets, or all nets, or all nets except certain nets.

I recommend you do your critical routes manually first, save it, and

then autoroute the rest, especially if you have lots of manual routes,

then it is easy to start over.

Works perfectly for me thank you Gary

Next question:

When I am doing a polygone it does not go around the legs of my components but let behind some incovered spots (I understand that a picture would be clearer:[IMG]http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/Polygon.jpg[/IMG] ) what is the parameter that I shall change?

badbad is your real name???

Help Polygon is your friend, see the paragraph "Thermals"& the others to

make your polygon best fit

r

Noep but the funny part is when I am connected it is displayed my real neame when I am not only my pseudo...

Thank you for the hint on thermal.

Hum I would not say that the doc is the most user friendly, an example would have been helpfull in it. What is the syntax for the thermal: Poly Thermal On?

AB

Message was edited by: alexandre bessy

On 3/22/2011 7:57 AM, badbad2142 wrote:

Next question:

When I am doing a polygone it does not go around the legs of my components but let behind some incovered spots (I understand that a picture would be clearer: http://s203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/ ) what is the parameter that I shall change?

 

It will be hard to solder it without those "thermals" especially if the

plane is any significant size. It will just act like an infinite heat sink.

This is more an issue for mass produced boards, but it is possible to

produce a board which is not hand solderable as well, I've worked on

some that simply have too much heatsinking to the ground plane to

desolder a component. That's when you get out the hot air tool or put it

in the oven and hope it survives!

oh... Thank you Gary for the explanation... I will see if what I have modified in GIMP is acceptable then...