Missing components in the library...

Am 15.03.2011 21:51, schrieb badbad2142:

Hello,

Still using the free version and still at newby silly question level.

I am creating (at least trying to) my first PCB board which is going to be a PMW. I started by order all the coponents for m digikey (got an head acke with their web tool..)

 

My coponents are:

• SN74ACC14N: Found it sounds good

• EVU-F3lFL3B14 (potentiometer): even wiht the datacheet I do not find it

 

Sorry, no email adress to send the extended lbr.

• 1N5817 (diode): can not find it...

Use diode.lbr -> device DIODE- with package variant DO41-10 and set the

VALUE to 1N5817.

• BUL704 (NPN) was not able to find it directly but using the number of the datasheet TO-220 whihc was not in the database either I end up finding it using TO220...

Use transistor.lbr -> device *-NPN- with package variant TO220 and set

the VALUE to BUL704.

• 1N914BTR (diode) was not able to find it...

Use diode.lbr -> device DIODE- with package variant DO35-10 and set the

VALUE to 1N914BTR.

And the list is going and going like that on every conponent.

My frustration level in rising, I spent more time looking ofr the components that I will spend on

> creating the board (step that I have note reached yet...)

Plase read

HELP USE (enter)

HELP ADD (enter)

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards

Alfred Zaffran

--

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CadSoft Computer GmbH       Hotline:   08635-698930

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Geschäftsführer: Dipl.-Ing. Klaus Schmidinger, Bodo Badnowitz

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Thank you both for your answers.

My mail adress is abessy@free.fr ;-)

I was hoping to spend more time to design the PCB and less on the components selection but I understand that all of them can not exists. It is just hard from the point of view that I am not doing PCB often (in fact it is the first) nor I am working in the electronic field so I am not fluent with the components equivalence (yet).

But I will get at it then...

Thank you again for your answers.

Regards

Alexandre Bessy

badbad2142 wrote:

Thank you both for your answers.

My mail adress is abessy@free.fr (mailto:abessy@free.fr)

 

I was hoping to spend more time to design the PCB and less on the components selection but I understand that all of them can not exists. It is just hard from the point of view that I am not doing PCB often (in fact it is the first) nor I am working in the electronic field so I am not fluent with the components equivalence (yet).

 

Just a comment from a guy who does electronics design for >25 years:

Packaging, component selection and the creation of library parts is

boring but it is often 50% of the job. Especially on cost critical

designs. So it is very important to learn the library editor of a new

CAD system very soon. Eagle isn't particularly easy to learn in that

respect but with persistence you'll get there.

Afterwards, when you haven't used the program for a while it is normal

to forget things.

By the way, the Digikey search engine is hands down the best there is,

there ever was. If you learn how to use that (easy) it becomes a

wonderful tool to find electronic parts. And now they also let you sort

by price.

But I will get at it then...

 

En peu du vin rouge, du fromage et la bonne musique ... and it will all

come together nicely

--

Cordialement, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Gary Gofstein wrote:

On 3/21/2011 11:20 AM, Joerg wrote:

>> badbad2142 wrote:

>>

>>

>>

>>>

>>> Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently

>>> living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning

>>> the cheese!!! Trust me...

>>>

>>>

>>>

>>

>> Costco often carries Boursin, the three-packs with different flavors.

>> Occasionally they have a Camembert that's actually fairly good if left

>> outside the fridge for an hour or so. But not very often

>>

>> World Market and Trader Joe's are also good places to hunt for tasty

>> European cheeses, if you have those store in your area. Bread is another

>> story and we sometimes bake our own, in the barbecue.

>>

always bake my own.

 

Very good. We also bake our pizza in the barbecue, over charcoal. Most

of the time coals from real firewood. Even when it hails.

@OP: lay out your board in mm if you wish ( I often do ),

but keep schematics at 0.100".

Yes, except for library symbols. In order for the more complicated ones

to look good it is important to switch the grid down to 0.025" or so.

But make sure outlines and pins are on the 0.100" grid.

--

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

"gmail" domain blocked because of excessive spam.

Use another domain or send PM.

On 3/21/2011 11:20 AM, Joerg wrote:

badbad2142 wrote:

 

 

>>

>> Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently

>> living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning

>> the cheese!!! Trust me...

>>

>>

>>

>

Costco often carries Boursin, the three-packs with different flavors.

Occasionally they have a Camembert that's actually fairly good if left

outside the fridge for an hour or so. But not very often

 

World Market and Trader Joe's are also good places to hunt for tasty

European cheeses, if you have those store in your area. Bread is another

story and we sometimes bake our own, in the barbecue.

 

always bake my own.

@OP: lay out your board in mm if you wish ( I often do ),

but keep schematics at 0.100".

badbad2142 wrote:

 

Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently

living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning

the cheese!!! Trust me...

 

 

Costco often carries Boursin, the three-packs with different flavors.

Occasionally they have a Camembert that's actually fairly good if left

outside the fridge for an hour or so. But not very often

World Market and Trader Joe's are also good places to hunt for tasty

European cheeses, if you have those store in your area. Bread is another

story and we sometimes bake our own, in the barbecue.

--

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

Thank you Richard.

Am 21.03.2011 02:33, schrieb badbad2142:

as an example:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/legnumber.jpg

 

on this component from the library how do you know if the pin and gates are numbered as in the datasheet of the component?

 

AB

 

SET PAD ON or OFF

or go to Options/Set/Misc menu and look for "Display pad names".

--

Mit freundlichen Gruessen / Best regards

Richard Hammerl

  CadSoft Support -- hotline@cadsoft.de

  FAQ: http://www.cadsoft.de/faq.htm

as an example:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/legnumber.jpg

on this component from the library how do you know if the pin and gates are numbered as in the datasheet of the component?

AB

Back on business Thank you Warren.

badbad2142 wrote:

I keep struggling but sure for no reason I must be doing something

wrond becasue a component as simple as a resistor gives me issues:

 

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/R1_Position2.jp

g[/IMG]

>

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/R1_Position1.jp

g[/IMG]

As you can see my resistor (that I picked from the library) is

oscillating between two posiitons AROUND the grid... I think that I

have the snap on the grid function activated (I did Grid On command

but not sure if it is the right one). I tried to move the component

using the Alt but it does not stop right on the grid and the

connection does not create itself. I did not chage the size of the

grid... ?

Hold the CTL  key down when you select the resistor. It will snap the

resistor to your 0.1 grid

HTH

Warren

I keep struggling but sure for no reason I must be doing something wrond becasue a component as simple as a resistor gives me issues:

[IMG]http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/R1_Position2.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/R1_Position1.jpg[/IMG]

As you can see my resistor (that I picked from the library) is oscillating between two posiitons AROUND the grid... I think that I have the snap on the grid function activated (I did Grid On command but not sure if it is the right one). I tried to move the component using the Alt but it does not stop right on the grid and the connection does not create itself. I did not chage the size of the grid...

?

Thank you all for your help.

Marius: I will try it right away.

Gary: For the grid being french I went for mm which is may be not wise with some of the existing components of the library.

My circuits are going to be home made (at least the first few to see if I can do something by myself) so coarse is ok for now. I will remember it for next time.

Jorge: I have not tried yet and I will.

Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning the cheese!!! Trust me...

:-)

Thank you all for your help.

Marius: I will try it right away.

Gary: For the grid being french I went for mm which is may be not wise with some of the existing components of the library.

My circuits are going to be home made (at least the first few to see if I can do something by myself) so coarse is ok for now. I will remember it for next time.

Jorge: I have not tried yet and I will.

Joerg: I am sad (but also veyr happy) to say that I am currently living in the US and undertsand perfectly what you mean concerning the cheese!!! Trust me...

:-)

On 3/31/2011 5:49 PM, Joerg wrote:

Gary Gofstein wrote:

>> On 3/31/2011 8:42 AM, badbad2142 wrote:

>>> Thank you all for your inputs. To be honest I was long to reply

>>> because I did not realize that a third page was there.

>>>

>>> Paul: Yes I have two jumpers.

>>> Gary: I hope you are right and that I will get away with it this time.

>>> I will keep your advise in mind for my next design (cmos legs inputs

>>> to be connected) . I will replace the capacitors by ceramic. My board

>>> being home made (and it is the first one that I do) I am only one side

>>> (it looks like this:

>>> http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/IMG_9090.jpg

>>> it has not been perfectly clean yet). It is also the reason why I did

>>> not care about the text (for this time at least).

>>> Joerg: I will try to improve with the ceramic capacitors but if it

>>> does not do it I will have to try again...

>>>

>>> Thank you all again!

>>>

>> You don't replace the caps with ceramic, you keep them, and then add

>> ceramic /as close to the chip as possible/ in parallel with the

>> electrolytics. ...

>

Yup, that's how it's done.

 

>

>>            ... If you use 74AC, I doubt it will work, 74HC chips,

>> maybe it works... never use 74AC unless you really know what you're

>> doing. If you already made the board, I would just solder a 0.1 ceramic

>> between pins 14 and 7 on the bottom of the board, that should do it.

>

On 74HC leaving inputs open usually doesn't work either. They'll waft

around, getting into the linear range around VCC/2, something starts

oscillating and the guy next door gets mad because his FM radio always

quits when the circuit is running

 

A 74AC with open inputs is a loose cannon. Sometimes oscillation at a

high enough frequency can cause a chip to self-destruct. Since the

74AC14 contains Schmitt inputs it might not self-destruct if replaced

with a 74HC14. Maybe, but I wouldn't hold my breath.

 

100% agreement, I was trying to say that AC without close bypassing will

go crazy for sure while HC might tolerate it. Any open inputs will cause

erratic circuit function and I see this mistake a lot on circuits on the

internet. Usually with comments that some builders "couldn't get it to

work." Of course...

Gary Gofstein wrote:

On 3/31/2011 8:42 AM, badbad2142 wrote:

>> Thank you all for your inputs. To be honest I was long to reply

>> because I did not realize that a third page was there.

>>

>> Paul: Yes I have two jumpers.

>> Gary: I hope you are right and that I will get away with it this time.

>> I will keep your advise in mind for my next design (cmos legs inputs

>> to be connected) . I will replace the capacitors by ceramic. My board

>> being home made (and it is the first one that I do) I am only one side

>> (it looks like this:

>> http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/IMG_9090.jpg

>> it has not been perfectly clean yet). It is also the reason why I did

>> not care about the text (for this time at least).

>> Joerg: I will try to improve with the ceramic capacitors but if it

>> does not do it I will have to try again...

>>

>> Thank you all again!

>>

You don't replace the caps with ceramic, you keep them, and then add

ceramic /as close to the chip as possible/ in parallel with the

electrolytics. ...

Yup, that's how it's done.

          ... If you use 74AC, I doubt it will work, 74HC chips,

maybe it works... never use 74AC unless you really know what you're

doing. If you already made the board, I would just solder a 0.1 ceramic

between pins 14 and 7 on the bottom of the board, that should do it.

On 74HC leaving inputs open usually doesn't work either. They'll waft

around, getting into the linear range around VCC/2, something starts

oscillating and the guy next door gets mad because his FM radio always

quits when the circuit is running

A 74AC with open inputs is a loose cannon. Sometimes oscillation at a

high enough frequency can cause a chip to self-destruct. Since the

74AC14 contains Schmitt inputs it might not self-destruct if replaced

with a 74HC14. Maybe, but I wouldn't hold my breath.

--

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 3/31/2011 8:42 AM, badbad2142 wrote:

Thank you all for your inputs. To be honest I was long to reply because I did not realize that a third page was there.

 

Paul: Yes I have two jumpers.

Gary: I hope you are right and that I will get away with it this time. I will keep your advise in mind for my next design (cmos legs inputs to be connected) . I will replace the capacitors by ceramic. My board being home made (and it is the first one that I do) I am only one side (it looks like this: http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/IMG_9090.jpg it has not been perfectly clean yet). It is also the reason why I did not care about the text (for this time at least).

Joerg: I will try to improve with the ceramic capacitors but if it does not do it I will have to try again...

 

Thank you all again!

 

You don't replace the caps with ceramic, you keep them, and then add

ceramic /as close to the chip as possible/ in parallel with the

electrolytics. If you use 74AC, I doubt it will work, 74HC chips,

maybe it works... never use 74AC unless you really know what you're

doing. If you already made the board, I would just solder a 0.1 ceramic

between pins 14 and 7 on the bottom of the board, that should do it.

Thank you all for your inputs. To be honest I was long to reply because I did not realize that a third page was there.

Paul: Yes I have two jumpers.

Gary: I hope you are right and that I will get away with it this time. I will keep your advise in mind for my next design (cmos legs inputs to be connected) . I will replace the capacitors by ceramic. My board being home made (and it is the first one that I do) I am only one side (it looks like this: http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/IMG_9090.jpg it has not been perfectly clean yet). It is also the reason why I did not care about the text (for this time at least).

Joerg: I will try to improve with the ceramic capacitors but if it does not do it I will have to try again...

Thank you all again!

badbad2142 wrote:

I was wanting to thank you all for your help. here is the first board I "designed" with your help:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/Eagle_Board1.jpg

 

AB

 

Ok, you got a lot of good hints already. One more: A 74AC14 is a very

fast chip. It needs a 0.1uF ceramic bypass capacitor right next to it,

and ideally some sort of ground plane. C2 is electrolytic, can't do it

alone, and is too far away anyhow. If you don't do that the 74AC14 might

decide to do a tanrantella dance when some input switches

The same may be true for the transistors but from the layout it's tough

to see what they do.

--

Regards, Joerg

http://www.analogconsultants.com/

On 3/25/2011 2:37 PM, badbad2142 wrote:

I was wanting to thank you all for your help. here is the first board I "designed" with your help:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/Eagle_Board1.jpg

 

AB

 

Also, every input to a CMOS IC should be tied to a definite digital

logic level, such as ground or Vdd. don't leave inputs open or your

circuit will tend to work intermittently. In your case, because you have

schmidt trigger inputs, you might get away with it, but you should set

them to level. unused outputs don't have to go anywhere.

On 3/25/2011 2:37 PM, badbad2142 wrote:

I was wanting to thank you all for your help. here is the first board I "designed" with your help:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/Eagle_Board1.jpg

 

AB

 

You will have a problem manufacturing this board because the silk screen

text is not in vector font. You need to change them all to vector and

move them if necessary. Otherwise, they will look very different when

you make the gerbers.

have you run a DRC? because it looks like you have shorting pads to top

layer.

the position of some of your capacitors looks wrong, especially if you

really use 74AC series chips, these have a real tendancy to instability

if not bypassed properly with 0.1ufd ceramics /right at the pins/.

Putting 1uF electrolytics an inch or so away is not likely to work

consistently. Best solution, use HC series if at all possible and bypass

with 0.1 ceramic right at the chip as well.

I'm pretty sure you could lay this out without using any jumpers or top

layer.

On 03/25/2011 05:37 PM, badbad2142 wrote:

I was wanting to thank you all for your help. here is the first board I "designed" with your help:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/Eagle_Board1.jpg

 

AB

 

Are you doing single sided PCB using two jumper in red. If not your

traces are shorting to the through hole pads.

Paul R.

I was wanting to thank you all for your help. here is the first board I "designed" with your help:

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa14/badbad214/Eagle/Eagle_Board1.jpg

AB

oh... Thank you Gary for the explanation... I will see if what I have modified in GIMP is acceptable then...