LCD

Spotted that one (and others) too with my eBay wanderings, < £15 GBP isn't bad either.

And the board has some startling similarities to my link . . . .

Also, by the time it arrives we'll have all forgotten about this conversation too!!

If all these comment(ers) are using this situation as a Teachable-Moment, then go right ahead. BUT if the object is to get a working 7" touchscreen for a RaspPi 3 B, then I would CUT my losses ($16.12 pounds = $15.42 USD). Get the Official RaspPi 7" Touch Screen (`$70.00 USD). I read the specs at that URL for the eBay entry for this $16.12 pounds, and it seems incomplete at Best. My knowledge dates back to my 73' BSEE (Syracuse Univ. NY USA), so maybe I am not up to speed. It maybe worth your trouble, It won't be worth my time and money. It is up to you. Like people say: "You can pay me Now or you can Pay me Later".

USCDADNYC

I have an old HP laptop screen and will be doing the same, if I can get it up and running for under £17 then I will.

I sure as heck can't afford to splash out £65 GBP for the smaller official screen, of a far lower resolution than the FREE item I have - (15.4-inch wide-screen display; 1,280x800).

I don't like the word 'can't' - it needs changing to 'haven't figured out how to yet'!

(except for striking a match on jelly - you really can't strike a match on jelly)!!

Hi Edward, yes cutting my losses was definitely an option. I've seen Makibes 7in screens with a proper HDMI connector for around £40 and that definitely seems a better option that buying separate boards that might not work together. Key lesson learnt is to re-read those EBay listing as you might not be getting what you thought.

Here is what I did. Combined RaspPi 3 B, Smartpi Touch Case and the official 7" touch screen in one package w/ Options.

Option One: Attached a Bitscope onto the Lego Nobs that are on the SmartPi Touch Case:

Option Two: You will need a "Dremel Tool" to cut the Plastic Backside of the SmartPi Case to EXPOSE the HDMI Connector

ALL Parts (when in the U.S.A.) are available thru either/or MCM Electronics or element14.

To complete the above Picture, you will need a "Dremel" Tool to cutaway at the Plastic. AND buy a "TOP"

Right-Angle HDMI Adapter.

Works Great. Now if only my RaspPi Zero would work.

USCDADNYC (NY NY USA)

For what it's worth (probably nothing).

Key Parameters

LCD Type TFT

LCD Interface 24-bit parallel

Touch Screen Interface 4 wires, capacitive

Touch Controller FT5206GE1

Backlight LED

Display Size (mm) 154.08 (W) 85.92 (H)

Dot Pitch (mm) 0.0642 (W) 0.1790 (H)

Aspect Ratio 8 : 5

Resolution 800 * 480 (Pixel)

Power Consumption TBD

Backlight Current TBD

Operating Temp.  TBD

Capacitive Touch Screen Interface Definition

PIN NO. SYMBOL DESCRIPTION Type FUNCTION

1 CAP_INT Interrupt input External touch interrupt control input

2 CAP_WAKE WAKEUP input Used to awake the external TP controller

3 I2C_SDA I2C data pin output/input Read/Write I2C data

4 I2C_SCL I2C clock pin input Control I2C clock

LCD Interface Definition

PIN NO. SYMBOL DESCRIPTION Type FUNCTION

1 VLED- Backlight negative input Backlight negative, connects to GND or PWM control

2 VLED+ Backlight Positive input Backlight Positive, 5V typical

3 GND Ground input Ground

4 VCC Power supply input Power supply, 3.3V

5 R0 Data pin input Red data

6 R1

7 R2

8 R3

9 R4

10 R5

11 R6

12 R7

13 G0 Data pin input Green data

14 G1

15 G2

16 G3

17 G4

18 G5

19 G6

20 G7

21 B0 Data pin input Blue data

22 B1

23 B2

24 B3

25 B4

26 B5

27 B6

28 B7

29 GND Ground input GND

30 DCLK LCD clock input LCD clock signal

31 DISP Enable backlight control input Typically connects to VCC

32 HSYNC Horizontal Synchronization input Horizontal synchronous signal input

33 VSYNC Vertical Synchronization input Vertical synchronous signal input

34 DE Control mode selection input DE = 0 : SYNC mode

DE = 1 : DE mode

35 NC

36 GND Ground input GND

37 X+ - - NC

38 Y- - - NC

39 X- - - NC

40 Y+ - - NC

The driver board arrived yesterday, I'll likely blog about my results.

Ok, all of those who said "get your self a ready made board" can now say "I told you so"....

The board came with no instructions and a "bodge" connector (now held together with tape, so I don't loose the bits) that allowed you to connect the ribbon connector to the sockets on the board. It all fitted together ok so I powered it up.

The connector did not clamp the ribbon very well at all and although it did managed to get a white image on the screen a couple of times, it eventually slipped and shorted the pins on the ribbon cable, frying the end of the cable.

So conclusion is.... it might work but I'd need a better way of connecting up the cables.

Plan is to put these into the "round tuit" box and buy a ready made board with all the correct connectors, USB and HDMI.

Thanks Workshopshed for showing "The proof is in the pudding".

AED wrote>>...For what it's worth (probably nothing)...

USCDADNYC Reply>> Actually I got a bit of info from your Data Dump. That being (Forgive my Probability & Statistics ineptitude)

w/ 8 R-bits, 8 G-bits, 8 B-bits (Red Green Blue), NO Wonder Manufacturers "tout" over 16 million Colors. Isn't it something like 3 Colors (R,G,B) each having 8bits. Some formula involving 8! (factorial) OR/AND 8**2 maybe involved? AAR a pretty Big #. Thx for the info.

BTW what country are you guys/gals resident in?

NOTE: This reply to AED was LOST in element14 (i wrote it maybe two weeks? ago) AAR I present it now. That element14 recovered it for me.

USCDADNYC (NY NY USA)