Octoprint Relay board

I tested this relay board out on a breadboard. seems to work well. I had to move some components around to scale it down to the size board i had laying around. This is for a remote switch for the 3d printer i got. I'm going to connect it to the gpio pints of the raspberry pi/ octoprint server to shut it down remotely.

I'll test it out on a something else like a light before the printer to ensure i don't fry it. Fingers x'd.

Top Comments

rctho over 4 years ago +3

I finally got this thing up and running and it works great turning the printer on and off. After the breadboard prototype, i had to move stuff around and went a lil' off track from the original design…
carmelito over 4 years ago +2

This is a great idea.Hoping you will post an update, as soon as you have it working with your 3D printer..Thanks
jw0752 over 4 years ago +2

Hi Craig, This is a good example of planning and testing prior to building. With this approach you have a much better chance of success. John

rctho over 4 years ago in reply to e14phil

Hey Phil,

You can use gcode commands to turn on/ off your printer instead of gpio pins. I think that's how it works if you're not using octopi. I think i really complicated things with this project cause i probably could have used the gcode too. oh well. Relay boards are pretty versatile. i can apply it to many other projects.
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rctho over 4 years ago in reply to e14phil

Hi Phil. I use Octopi. The plugin is available for Octoprint but I think it’s meant to be used for a PSU. An atx type of some sort, but I’m not exactly sure. The plugin settings have a myriad of options. I’m sure it’s in there somewhere or you can check the documentation.

For the pi I just connected it to a gpio, 3v, and 5v pins which were also in the plugin settings. I just chose the first available. Any one will do.

I hope that helps.
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rctho over 4 years ago in reply to mcb1

Thats a good idea. I am concerned about how much juice is flowing through such a lil' circuit. I'll add today. Thanks for the tip.
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rctho over 4 years ago in reply to jw0752

Thanks John.
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rctho over 4 years ago

Hi Phil. I use Octopi with the Octoprint PSU Plugin. The plugin is available for Octoprint but I think it’s meant to be used for a PSU. An atx type of some sort, but I’m not exactly sure. The plugin settings have a myriad of options. I’m sure it’s in there somewhere or you can check the documentation.

For the pi I just connected it to a gpio, 3v, and 5v pins which were also in the plugin settings. I just chose the first available. Any one will do.

I hope that helps.
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e14phil over 4 years ago

Hi Craig

I love this! I also use OctoPrint.

What are you using to is trigger relay on and off with the Pi?
*Edit - Octoprint PSU Plugin. ... Nice.
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jw0752 over 4 years ago in reply to rctho

Thanks for sharing the finished project. Looks good.
John
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rctho over 4 years ago

I finally got this thing up and running and it works great turning the printer on and off. After the breadboard prototype, i had to move stuff around and went a lil' off track from the original design that set me back a bit but i finally got it to work. Octoprint has a PSU plugin that saved me from having to edit any config files. I just setup the reset function in the plugin settings by adding the gpio pin to trigger the relay board and thats it.

Off to a good start finishing up some old projects. Time for some remote printing. I want to print a case but i only want to have one power cord to power everything. Power and ethernet coming in and printer and camera going out. Maybe a power switch too. Any suggestions?
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mcb1 over 4 years ago in reply to rctho

The voltage is 12 with 7 amps
In that case you should be fine.
You'll need to add some wire onto the pcb traces.

If it's using a supply from a computer, they often fool it by bridging out the enable wire.
You might be able to interupt that instead.

Mark
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peteroakes over 4 years ago in reply to rctho

Correct, you can get it to work but it is much easier to keep the power side separate from the PI, the PI wants 5V, nice and clean, the relays and the LED loads want probably 12V and it will have quite a bit of noise when switching so if you want to avoid hard to diagnose issues, keep them separate except for a common ground
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