Solder station selection

I'm using a ERSA i-con pico for several years now, and I really like it. Heats up quite fast, and has no problems controlling the temperature. Only drawback: its non-antistatic (its not grounded), you would need the i-con nano for that.

For someone starting in electronics one of the cheaper T12 soldering stations might be better, though. I have one as replacement (should the pico ever fail), and it also works quite well (though the hand-set is not as nice as the one from the ERSA).

I've been using i-con picos for years (since ERSA stopped supporting the big expensive station I had.) I've found them to be pretty good. I also have an RS Pr Ds90 which is good for heavier work and has given no trouble at all.

A variety of cheap Chinese temperature controlled irons have been OK until they go wrong, which has usually happened quite quickly.

MK

Thanks Hendrik,

That's just the sort of operational insight I needed, I will check out the ERSA icon-pico now.

Dave

Hi Michael,

Many thanks for your swift reply.

Just what I needed 'hands on' experience of a recommended tool.

Is the temperature detected right at the tip like on the 'techtool'? and how do you change tips.

Is the tip retained by a threaded sleeve like the old TCP Weller irons, but the sleeve has a bakelite (thermally safe) thumbwheel so you don't burn your fingers?

From the datasheet it doesn't make it very clear.

Thanks

Dave

This is the tip from my i-con pico

The iron slides inside the tip right up to where it starts to taper.

The plastic ring does get pretty hot.

MK

I have several irons, but the one I use all the time is an old Hakko 936 - it has worked consistently well for many years. There seem to be other companies either cloning or licensing Hakko designs. This model does not have a digital thermometer, I set the temperature to a point where I can make a joint quickly. As with just about all irons, the temperature control setting needs to change based on thermal mass of the tip and thermal mass of the component and area of the trace. I have a "feel" for what will work for any given situation, so I pretty much set the temperature automatically without thinking. I don't even know what the temperature is, I just know how long I want to take to make a good joint. Temperature is marked on the dial, but I have never checked to see if it is accurate. Obviously it doesn't measure the temperature right at the tip and that temperature there will fluctuate depending on what it is touching. I generally use a fairly fine point tip, but might swap it for a bigger one if the job requires a lot of heat.

Hey Dave,

You seem to be facing the same situation I am. Luckily, I can defer my son's request until next year as he is too young to handle a soldering station by himself, but I think I'll get him the Hakko FX-951.

Seems like the station of choice for all the cool kids these days because it has the heater in the tip, so it has very good thermal recovery, and it has pretty colors too. I know a couple of folks in real life that got them for professional work and they're also happy with them.

Cheers,
Razvan

I'd keep it very simple for a kid. It's not the gear that counts, but the pleasure of soldering.

Ah a picture is worth....

Thanks now I understand, as I have found ERSA irons sooo reliable I think I am erring on buying a pico. Many thanks

Dave

Hi Razvan, thanks for the info will have a look at the Hakko kit.

All the best

Dave