First thing  i would 3d print is small size wind mill experiment.

Green energy, free energy and clean air

Print another 3d printer

jeremytoh89 for Cii better idea; mount your spools in a plastic box on a rod then fill the box with nitrogen.. TADA. 

Nitrogen (N2) – Unlike the other desiccant types, Nitrogen is a gas. An advantage of Nitrogen is when used within a nitrogen-base dry cabinet, Relative Humidity (RH) can quickly be lowered inside the chamber. Generally used in semiconductor research and manufacturing industries to precisely control RH during storage. 

I used to have one when I owned my pager company. works better than rice. LOL

1. Alignment/Test Articles

2. Carbon Fiber Filament like this stuff: Markforged Carbon Fiber Filament - 150cc it's way expensive!!!

1) I'd probably start with corners/joints for a DYI spider enclosure/terrarium. It should be able to hold acrylic or even glass sheets together and allow for some precise holes or ventilation placement.

2) I sometimes used acetone-based nail polish remover to give the print a rough trim before actual smoothing with sanding paper took place - it worked!

Hi,

I have previously used Ultimaker CURA 3D printer. Based on my past experience I would first print something like a small plate which assures me that the printer is working.

Then as I am embedded systems and RaspberryPi fan, I would print some kind of enclosure for the RPI or any other board. I would also print tiny parts to stick RGB LED's on the nicely saped strips which can hold and increase the lifespan of RGB strips.

2) What are we missing from this list?  Any special tools/procedures/secrets that you use to get the best 3D prints?

I am not quite sure that weather you already thought about software design part of the 3D printing. It is one of the most important thing to consider when you design a 3D printing parts that how I will create my design. The option which I used was Autodest fusion 360 but there are other options as well. 

The procesure is that first a 3D design needs to be prepared properly. While making a design one has to have a sense of how gravity works, because there are some shapes like a ball which can not be designed in one part. it needs two bouls to be joined together to create a ball out of this. How would one do this? What are the options?

Lastly, the 3D design is exported to 3D printing software which might suggest to remove/make changes to some of the design parts, cause the software knows better and it is optimised for 3D printing itself rather than a 3D design software. Finally once the software gives thums up one can print. The printer will suggest estimated time when the print will be ready.

Finally you can start printing in the evening if you dont want to wait to much during the day. You have to make sure that the safety is considered. Like there is Fire alarm and fire safety where the 3D printer is kept.!! 

The first thing that I would print would probably be the SOLT holder for calibrating my nano VNA.  The little boat is tempting, but the holder is more practical for me to learn on.

What is missing?  Needle files.  https://www.newark.com/duratool/d00149/file-set-needle-10pcs/dp/58M5383    I haven't 3D printed anything ever, but the finishing seems to be where one would need the most gadgets.  The Dremel is far too fast for me.  I can goof up stuff in a hurry with one of those.

First thing to print with new filament is a temperature tower. They are readily available on the net but you will need to learn a bit of Gcode to change the temperature of the nozzle at the appropriate time.

A tool that I find invaluable is a pair of long tweezers for rescuing stray blobs of filament from the hot end nozzle and bed.

With a new printer print test cubes, tweaking settings between each print, until you are happy the printer settings are correct and your cube is the correct size.

Look at your hot end drive gear and check it rotates evenly. The two grub screws on my (cheap printer!) was making the drive gear rotate like a cam and I believe as a result was varying filament extrusion. I put a thin shim opposite the grub screws between the drive shaft and drive gear and my prints improved.

With 3d printing there’s a lot to learn but I think everything got easier when I learned the fundamentals of Gcode. Though be careful entering the wrong command can have disastrous results!

1) First thing to print is a sweet hot looking car body for my previous RC car conversion project /challenges-projects/project14/radiocontrol/b/blog/posts/rc-toy-hack---rc-car-rescue-restore-recycle-retrofit

This car's body was lost long ago. The next step for this car is to replace the Arduino with a Raspberry Pi , mount a camera + other sensors , and work towards adding AI. 

After printing the Gamera head for this project, /challenges-projects/halloween/b/blog/posts/flying-gamera-hat-w-flame-jets-screech-using-arduino-for-turntable-audio-control, I used up the rest of the PLA on facemask headbands during the covid peak, so my 

2)  A couple things that could be added to the 3D printer kit: 

 a)  a fast & reliable PLA  filament splicer !!!!! 

 b) a small bubble level to check the printer's table for level. 

 c) blue painters tape - I see there is some other masking tape listed , but my previous experience was with blue painters tape, 

1) What's the first thing you're going to print and why?

I would print a flow rate square.  After printing, I would calculate my flow rate and update my Extrusion Multiplier (you should do this for every new spool you get).  Once the update is complete, I would print a Soldering Fume Extractor.

2) What are we missing from this list?  Any special tools/procedures/secrets that you use to get the best 3D prints?

• I've been printing for ~5 years, things I wish I knew when I was a noob getting started:
  • PLA is best to start with, it is the most forgiving filament. Find a brand you like and stick with it.  Once you are comfortable with it, then move on to other filaments.  Remember PLA is made from plants and reduces the impact on the environment.
  • Bed leveling is very important, my first printer did not have one and I almost gave up on printing.  If the printer you are looking at does not include it, don't buy it as your first or next printer.
  • Another very important feature is a filament runout sensor.  It will save your print and reduce the amount of waited filament and prints.  This should be considered a no-deal option.
  • The first layer is the most important.  If it does not stick when you run your finger across it, you most likely will not have a successful print.  Use live Z adjustment then restart the print.  Verify your printer has this feature.  (FYI, you should not touch the bed when hot and will eventually be able to just look at it and know it will stick)
  • A lot of people use alcohol or acetone to clean the bed.  I've found that NON-acetone fingernail polish remover is awesome for PLA.  I'm not sure why masking tape is recommended if your bed is clean and sticky, maybe this is a cost-saving.  I found Magigoo 3d printing adhesive works well for ABS, ASA, PC, and more (as mentioned in the above article).
  • I recommend getting a kit for your first printer.  This will help you when it comes time to repair it and you will need to at some point.  Keep your assembly tools close as you will need them.
  • A simple first print is a PINDA protector (auto-leveling component).  This will prevent a lot of failed prints by removing hangs on your PINDA due to warping.
  • Don't stress getting a Multi-Material Unit. You can always add it later.
• Your first major upgrade should be a printing chamber when you are comfortable with PLA.  All the materials I've used introduce warping and a chamber helps prevent it.
• Using knurled is great for ensuring screws hold. You will need a soldering iron to insert.  Set it to the same temperature as the material temperature.
• Stringing can be a problem, it could be temperature or moisture in the filament.
  • The first thing to check is you retract settings.  If you are not retracting enough or not wiping while retracting can cause stringing.
  • Next, print a temperature tower, plenty of examples, and sample G-code mods to do this online.
  • If you can't get rid of it, a heat gun or kitchen torch to heat the printed part and remove the stringing.  Caution should be used, do it quickly, don't melt your print.
• You should always put your filament in a vacuum zip lock to prevent moisture in the filament.  If not, you will end up wasting filament and have poor-looking prints.
• When creating your models, create multiple components.  This will simplify design and keep your project organized.
• Learn a good CAD tool, as a hobbyist, you can use Fusion 360 for free.
• www.thingiverse.com is your friend,  chances are, someone has already built a model you need/like.  Download the STL file.  (FYI, an STL file can be used by your slicer to generate G-code.)
• Printer settings are important, learn each option and what it does.  Print quality can be reduced to improve speed.
• The best way to learn is to teach, once you understand a feature, process, or tool, teach it to someone else.  They will ask questions to make you think about what you have learned.

Remember, It's a hobby, treat it as such and enjoy yourself.

Happy printing and good luck to you noobs.