Arty S7 rev B vs Arty S7 rev E? Somewhat confused.

I also received Rev B (my silkscreen is quite bad here, it looks like rev rectangle, but I think it is letter B). Serial number starts with 21, so I gues board was manufactured in 2021. According to Reference Manual power circuit was changed between revisions C and E. Use this documentation: https://digilent.com/reference/programmable-logic/arty-s7/reference-manual/power_supplies_rev_c. I checked it and my board is older design with AD2384 regulator.   https://www.analog.com/en/products/adp2384.html

Have you switched jumper J13 before connecting power supply? Can you identify burned chip (= chip which smell the most)? Do you see any black or brown burned wire at top or bottom of board? Maybe you burned only some power regulator and FPGA remained safe. Theoreticaly all regulaters could be baypassed somehow. 5V you can provide manualy using JP13. If you burned ADP5052 which is used for converting 5V to 3 other lower voltages, then you will need to manualy provided 1V, 3.3V and 1.35V. 1V and 3.3V are avalaible at jumpers JP3 and JP4 (they are marked as no load in schematics, but my board contains pinheads soldered). 1.35V is most complicated. It is avalaible for example at SW3 (really, while it is mainly used for DDR memory, it is also avalaible on mechanical switch, most probably because switch is connected to the pin of bank powered by 1.35V).

I recommend be extremely careful in this situation and before applying any power check all things at least 5 times. I remember from universite that many Digilent ZYBO boards also smelt burned but in fact everything worked well and I did not find any malfunction anytime. Maybe this is some design caveat and maybe your board will work fine even it smell.

I also recommend testing short circuits (by digital multimeter for example) on all power domains (5V, 3.3V, 1.35V and 1V). Similarly all pins of JP13 should not be shorted with ground.

When you switch back to USB supply, do your board work (remember set JP13 correctly first)?

Thanks misaz, I found the burned part the AD2384 regulator. 

I am working fine powering the board by USB. So for now I will not try to power it through the other port again.

This is sad . This regulator is used for converting VIN in range 6 - 20V to 5V and second independent option is using USB cable. If you want to use battery, then you will need to use external converter and provide 5V (check voltage before connecting) to JP13 pinhead used for selecting 5V source:

This is sad . This regulator is used for converting VIN in range 6 - 20V to 5V and second independent option is using USB cable. If you want to use battery, then you will need to use external converter and provide 5V (check voltage before connecting) to JP13 pinhead used for selecting 5V source:

That's great, thanks for the hint. I had thought to mount the board on a chassis with motors with this board: Pololu - Motor Driver and Power Distribution Board for Romi Chassis that can supply a continuous 2.5 A at 5 V.

I intend to experiment with PWM, proximity sensors and line followers.

Tested, your idea works.

I wanted to play around with the board a bit first before trying it. But I no longer had any other solution to continue my project as planned, so it's already tried and tested, Arty S7 50 ArtyBot Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) for Motor Speed Control.

Thanks for all the support misaz