- Intro Blog
- Unboxing
- Setup
- Gourmet Install
- Load up some Recipes!
- Enclosure Planning. <<<---
- 7inch Touchscreen Time
- AIY Build / Google Voice
- AIY API & Certs
- Succes with Google AIY!
Welcome back to a little brainstorming session on the Custom Enclosure!
I have been taking notes and thinking about the best way to build the enclosure for awhile now and it clicked that I should probably share some of my thought process with everyone. This way you guys can see where I am trying to go and possibly even point out some issues or cool options!
Previously I shared that I have around 11 inches of depth to work with. This should be plenty of spacing for my 7" screen and allows for me to leave some upgrade spacing for future renditions. I need to order some longer cables for the camera and SenseHat since I have some intriguing thoughts on how to implement them later. :-)
With some of the woodworking I do around the house I use 1x2" strips to allow some depth and customization with my 1x4, 1x6 & 1x8 workings. Originally I had thought it would be interesting to use these since a 1x2 (actually 3/4 by 1.5 inches) fits flush when laid down with the cabinetry currently in place in the kitchen.
Here you can see it fits perfectly flush. I angled it slightly so you could actually see it. This would have been ideal aside from the fact that the KCON is not 3/4 " skinny!
Here you can see from my earlier mockup that the KCON is actually now about 1.5" thick. With out the power cabling secured which sticks out just a tad more. At least until I get some jumpers that are angled or solder them all together.
Here is the KCON mockup under the cabinet. Technically it is flipped upside down since I will actually want the screen on the bottom when I flip it forward. But for sizing and planning this works.
As you can see this really doesn't allow for a completely flat concealed approach for installation. Not a big deal just something that would have been interesting if it could be done.
Just to get an idea. I have removed the RPI and have just the Screen under the cabinet.
Obviously I can remove the standoffs and clean up a little more space but it will still be super close if I were to attempt to separate each piece and make a very long install.
Since I don't have longer cables and am unsure how much of a difference building it thin compared to building it thicker with everything together will be in the look, I think I will stay with keeping it simpler and together.
Here I have one of 1x2s laid on the counter flat as an example.
Once again, the KCON is obviously much thicker than the 3/4" of a flat 1x2.
Rotating my 1x2 so it is standing up gives me a better spacing with the 1.5"
With the 1x2 butted up against the metal lip of the screen you can see everything fits pretty well minus the power cabling sticking up just a tad as I had previously expected.
One of the major issues with mounting to the metal lip is the fact you can see actual mounting points farther in on the screen.
Aside from implementing some type of adhesive, securing it to the metal lip will probably require a variety of routing and various levels of cutting to a larger than 1x2 piece of wood.
Now we have the 1x2 on top of the actual mounting spots and you can see that the spacing has increased enough that the power cables are no longer a concern.
But of course now I have to find machine screws of 1 3/4 " or so and drill completely through 1x2.
And there is a spacing with the screen now on the edges that doesn't align with the actual screen edges.
Still Doable if needed. But...
On a custom Barndoor installation I had routed some edges and had long strips of L shaped wood left.
Here you can see it placed on top of the mounting points. Substantially thinner, yet thick enough to be solid for anchoring everything to it.
Here I have taken the previous 1x2 and placed it butted up next to the L shaped wood.
I can now be assured of my spacing for depth.
In addition if you notice the edging, I can adjust to have it actually be flush with the metal of the lcd screen so I no longer have that gap I was concerned about.
Here is a side shot showing the L strip and the 1x2. I think this will be a good way to move forward in mounting!
If anyone has some suggestions please feel free to enter in the comments!
Thank you!