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  • Author Author: luislabmo
  • Date Created: Date Created
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Hologram Pi-ramid - 3D printed parts and initial assembly

luislabmo

Once I was happy with all necessary the details in my project design, I started 3d-printing all the parts required to begin testing the assembly which overall is looking really good!.

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3-D Print settings

Below the settings used:

  • Printer: Creality CR-10S -a big thanks to Element14 for this awesome price!
  • Material: PLA Blue-denim
  • Infill: 15%, triangles
  • Adhesion: Brim
  • Supports: No
  • Layer height: 0.2mm

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Assembly and materials required

It didn't make much sense to me to incorporate snap-fit features to the general assembly since the overall structure will have to support the weight of the RPi + Touchscreen mainly. Also I would most likely be assembling/disassembling several times the project while it evolves. With all of the above in mind, it made sense to add holes for screws to the project -which require to be tapped as threads that small are hard to replicate in a 3d printed part. Below the list of screws I will be using to assemble the project:

 

  • 2 x #2 x 3/8" Slotted Round Head Screws
  • 6 x #5-40 x 3/8" Socket Head Cap Screws
  • 2 x #6-32 x 2" Socket Head Cap Screws

 

{gallery:width=960,height=768,autoplay=false} Hologram Pi-ramid - Initial assembly

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Hologram Pi-ramid hardware: #2 x 3/8" and #6-32 x 2" screws

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Hologram Pi-ramid hardware: #5-40 x 3/8" screws

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Hologram Pi-ramid: Some tools needed for the 3d printed parts assembly

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Hologram Pi-ramid: Tapping #5-40 holes with a 3d printed tap wrench

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Hologram Pi-ramid: Tapped holes #5-40

 

 

Blogs in this series

 

  1. Hologram Pi-ramid - Intro and initial design
  2. Hologram Pi-ramid - 3D CAD/CAM design
  3. Hologram Pi-ramid - 3D printed parts and initial assembly
  4. Hologram Pi-ramid - Plexiglass Pyramid
  5. Hologram Pi-ramid - My name is Automan
  6. Hologram Pi-ramid - PCB Design
  7. Hologram Pi-ramid - Painting the 3D printed parts
  8. Hologram Pi-ramid - Electronic Parts
  9. Hologram Pi-ramid - Displaying Holograms
  10. Hologram Pi-ramid - Project complete!

 

 

 

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3D CAD/CAM design

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Plexiglass Pyramid

Parents

  • Luis,

     

    That is some impressive 3D printing. I may have to think about changing mine as I don't think it could do that.

     

    I'm also impressed that you are using only 15% infill. I use 85% usually and it still isn't all that good and often cracks or snaps when parts are being 'eased' together. The last time I used 100% but that didn't seem to come out correct as it was very rough.

     

    Dubbie

    l

Comment

  • Luis,

     

    That is some impressive 3D printing. I may have to think about changing mine as I don't think it could do that.

     

    I'm also impressed that you are using only 15% infill. I use 85% usually and it still isn't all that good and often cracks or snaps when parts are being 'eased' together. The last time I used 100% but that didn't seem to come out correct as it was very rough.

     

    Dubbie

    l

Children
  • in reply to dubbie

    Dubbie, the problems maybe just your too high percentage of infill...

     

    Write me an email, maybe I can send you something useful, to try before changing the 3D printer image

     

    Enrico

  • in reply to dubbie

    Hello Dubbie,

     

    I think 85% infill is high as a default/for average parts, usually you will need something around 15% to 20% just to give some internal volume to the parts and also to help features of the object that are not vertical -or tend to be horizontal- to have something to hold on to when printing. Usually an infill that high is needed in very specific cases like when parts will be under heavy tension/pressure, etc.

     

    If your parts are cracking that most likely is poor layer adhesion, I had the same issue with my Creality CR-10S -brand new and with factory default setting- which is the printer I'm using for this project. try checking the following in that order:

    • Printing temperature: may be too low for the material you are using. Google "temp calibration tower" useful to find the right temperature for your material. It's better to have the temp on the high side a little bit.
      image
    • Underextrusion: This video will help you calibrate extrusion amount. You can try correcting it with gcode M92 to avoid doing it with a firmware change
    • Check the Z-axis: again calibration... are objects as tall as they should be?. A calibration cube works well here
    • Bed temperature: try increasing it a little (maybe 5 degrees)
    • First layer: Making sure your first layer bonds well to the printing is the key for good bed-to-part temperature transfer (if you have a heated bed) and also will help other layers bond better. What I personally do here is I level the print bed as good as I can then I print  just the first layer of a mid to big part, then I take that layer and visually check if every line extruded is bonded well to the next in every spot, If not, then I try to the move bed closer to the nozzle -only the corners that need it in little amounts-. Calibration has to be done regularly and when done, heated bed and nozzle must be hot.
      image

    I tried all of the above with good success -picture below for results-, layers have now a very strong bond and parts won't break easy.
    image

    Hope this helps

     

    Luis

  • in reply to luislabmo

    Luis,

     

    These are some good ideas. I will have to try them out. I did reduce the infill on some of the more recent parts, as you suggested and it seems to have printed much better. Or it may be that the bed was heated properly as the printer was on for a long time.

     

    Dubbie