Hologram Pi-ramid - 3D printed parts and initial assembly

8 Apr 2019

Once I was happy with all necessary the details in my project design, I started 3d-printing all the parts required to begin testing the assembly which overall is looking really good!.

3-D Print settings

Below the settings used:

Printer: Creality CR-10S -a big thanks to Element14 for this awesome price!
Material: PLA Blue-denim
Infill: 15%, triangles
Adhesion: Brim
Supports: No
Layer height: 0.2mm

Assembly and materials required

It didn't make much sense to me to incorporate snap-fit features to the general assembly since the overall structure will have to support the weight of the RPi + Touchscreen mainly. Also I would most likely be assembling/disassembling several times the project while it evolves. With all of the above in mind, it made sense to add holes for screws to the project -which require to be tapped as threads that small are hard to replicate in a 3d printed part. Below the list of screws I will be using to assemble the project:

2 x #2 x 3/8" Slotted Round Head Screws
6 x #5-40 x 3/8" Socket Head Cap Screws
2 x #6-32 x 2" Socket Head Cap Screws

{gallery:width=960,height=768,autoplay=false} Hologram Pi-ramid - Initial assembly
Hologram Pi-ramid hardware: #2 x 3/8" and #6-32 x 2" screws
Hologram Pi-ramid hardware: #5-40 x 3/8" screws
Hologram Pi-ramid: Some tools needed for the 3d printed parts assembly
Hologram Pi-ramid: Tapping #5-40 holes with a 3d printed tap wrench
Hologram Pi-ramid: Tapped holes #5-40

{gallery:width=960,height=768,autoplay=false} Hologram Pi-ramid - Initial assembly

Hologram Pi-ramid hardware: #2 x 3/8" and #6-32 x 2" screws

Hologram Pi-ramid hardware: #5-40 x 3/8" screws

Hologram Pi-ramid: Some tools needed for the 3d printed parts assembly

Hologram Pi-ramid: Tapping #5-40 holes with a 3d printed tap wrench

Hologram Pi-ramid: Tapped holes #5-40

Blogs in this series

My Picasso Design Challenge entries

3D CAD/CAM design

Plexiglass Pyramid

Top Comments

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balearicdynamics over 6 years ago

I like your interesting approach to make the threads in the holes. What material did you use PLA? And what was the shell thickness?
A very nice designed building.

Enrico
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balearicdynamics over 6 years ago

I like your interesting approach to make the threads in the holes. What material did you use PLA? And what was the shell thickness?
A very nice designed building.

Enrico
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balearicdynamics over 6 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

Sorry, I read only now your answer to Gene. 0.8 mm only? I thought it was necessary a thicker value
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luislabmo over 6 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

Hello Enrico, I believe the shell thickness is defaulted as twice the nozzle size (0.4mm in my case using Cura). I have also a Lulzbot Mini and the shell thickness there is 1mm (nozzle size is 0.5mm it uses Cura too). In all my years 3d printing (which are 4 years now) that value works well.
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balearicdynamics over 6 years ago in reply to luislabmo

Hi, despite the fact that the shell thickness should be a multiple of the nozzle diameter - for an obvious reason - I use a higher thickness just for the parts that need some post-production like sanding then painting, eventually. But I also saw other interesting methods like using a solvent to make the printed surfaces smooth that - as these methods consume partially some plastic material - it is a good idea to keep the shell thicker.

Enrico
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dubbie over 6 years ago in reply to balearicdynamics

Enrico,

Thanks for this. I have tried some of these ideas in the past, but unfortunately now I cannot remember what worked well and what didn't. I guess I'll have to start again and write it down this time.

Dubbie
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